Sorry to hear. You are not alone. I did the same thing on my Rover 800 Vitesse Coupe a few years ago. Dark, Raining, easy happens.
Car was completely dead after no electrics at-all. Turned out to be the very big 35a fuse in the relay / engine bay. There is always some kind of sefety built in (unless you have a French car).

Try asking one of the tech guys. I,m sure ist something and nothing.

 

As above. Have you tested the fuses in the engine bay fusebox that are screwed down?

Mike

 

Seems strange that you had the same problem on 10th December last year and the solution was given to you on that thread.

Read about it here.

 

Yes, indeed, weird!!!

 

oh I`am a spoil sport but I only know cos T&S Terry told me, mega fuse
Mal

 

Its not the mega fuse in the engine compartment, and no fuse has blown in main fuse box. it looks like it could be the BCU

 

Yes I did post it on the 10/12/11, thought that I would try on here, But it is looking like its the BCU, so I'm looking around for a second hand one to try.

 

Think you may have fried the ECU


steve

.

 

If the engine is cranking but not firing, iis more likely to be engine ECU fried rather than BCI IMO, as the BCU would likely as not preclude the engine cranking if it was fried.

I would have someone with a decnt diagnostic kit check it, they may be able to identify which ECU is damaged, if indeed it is an ECU and not another fault.

Regards, Rob.

 

Thanks for that looks like this is going to get costly, The wife is going mad at me

 

Did you actually try a new Mega150?or just use a multimeter?

 

I used a multimeter on it why?

 

Why, indeed!!

What is wrong with using a multimeter to test a fuse? Assuming you know how to use a multimeter, which I'm sure you do.

Ivor.

 

What's wrong with doing an ohms test?

 

Because resistance is futile!

 

Robin, How is the resistance futile as I was referring to establishing if the main fuse ( or indeed any fuse) was good or not.!
John

 

Hi John,

Firstly I'm Rob.

Secondly, it is a play on words, using resistance, or more especially a continuity test on a fuse or a bulb for instance is absolutely valid as a test.

However, resistance tests are completely futile, unless you know of a particular value that something should be, and indeed what temperature it should be that resistance at.

For example, if the info says that an injector should be 16 ohms at 20 degrees C, then that is what you should be measuring, little more & little less.

However, doing a resistance test on a length of wire is completely futile, as problems with wiring will generally only show up when current is flowing, since you can't use an ohmmeter when the circuit is in operation, it is furile to use a ohmmeter for this task.

The ONLY way to test for resisitances accurately is to carry out a volt drop test whilst the circuit is in its working state.

Regards, Rob.

 

I think Rob was joking and making a play on words there lol
Simon


Please insert signature here or don't the choice is yours

 

I took the fuse out of the car and tested it, so may get a new one just in case

 

Looking like the mega fuse from where this thread is going. Have you tried bridging it with another fuse just to see if you have life?

I really hope its only that ...then you will have enough money to take the misses out to Harvester for a meal and also buy flowers


seriously best of luck with this one

 

sorry rob i didnt read your far more comprehensive thread

very informative

 

Rob, Accept what you say but I was referring to the subject of the thread - Check if the Main Fuse was good or not - there was no mention of an ohms test to prove if it was negative or indeed off the scale.
Anyway cheers John

 

Rob, Accept what you say but I was referring to the subject of the thread - Check if the Main Fuse was good or not - there was no mention of an ohms test to prove if it was negative or indeed off the scale.
Anyway cheers John

Well you can't have negative ohms, everything has some resistance, even if is a tiny amount, so it will always be a positve resistance, but may show as zero if your meter is unable to detect any resistance in the item/circuit, which is possible with a cheap meter as they aren't very good. If it's got infinite resistance then it is open circuit, so in the case of a fuse or a bulb it indicates it is blown.

Fuses, etc, need to be tested in isolation, just in case a circuit is on the other end and could be damaged by the voltage & small current emitted by the ohmmeter. In the case of a fuse it is wise to remove it anyway as there are some systems where it will show continuity but that continuity is coming from another fuse, and the one you are testing is actually blown.

So even the mega fuses need to be unbolted & tested seperately. Of course the easy way to test in situ is to see if you have 12 volts, relative to ground, on both sides of the fuse, simples!!

Regards, Rob.

 

Well thanks for all the help, plus some interesting facts. Going to get a 150amp fuses in the next few days to try. If it still doesn't start think its time to get someone in to look at it. This has been going on since the being of December and the wife is getting on at me,

 

All you have to do is bridge the megafuse with something metal and see if things start working again then you will know one way or another without spending anything.

 

As long as whatever you 'bridge' it with can carry the current then that is fine, if it can't then it will either burn out or get very hot.

Regards, Rob.

 

My suggestion to bridge the fuse was only to see if something simple like the internal lights came on thus indicating that it was the fuse causing his problem and not to run the vehicle permanently in that condition.I would think that the vast majority of car owners recognise the function of a properly rated fuse.

 

The wife has found a 150 amp fuse on ebay. So we are waiting for it to come and than we can see if it is that. Yes I know that I could bridge the old fuse, But it was only £2.12 with free postage. If it is not the fuse she has told me that we are going to get someone out to look at it. Plus she has told me that the shop is shut until her car is back on the road. And I've got to do all the washing up instead of using the dish washer for a month.

 

Blimey, that's harsh!!!!!

 

i done this with my first car/ mg metro went flat at work so used the gaffers jump leads. used a forklift to put the leadson. lol put them on the wrong way. loom was toast and the jump leads.

 

Woo hoo the beast is back up and running, its was the 150amp fuse. The only thing not working now is the Radio, Thank you everyone for the help you gave me. I'm still having to do the washing up but its ok my hand are nice and soft.

 

To hell with the washing up. Is the shop open again ????


:mg_chic::mg_chic: OR :crying:

 

That's great news.But we did tell you what it was a month ago.Happy driving.