Probably brake cleaner if you are referring to removing grease etc.

 

I used the edges of an old RAC card (like a debit/credit card). It's soft enough not to damage to the alloy but just about tough enough to scrape off the carbon and muck.

 

I used methalated spirits and it worked well, plus it's purple!

 

This is what I use to clean up Block and Cylinder Head Interfaces.

After a pressure wash using a Nilfisk pressure washer for the initial degrease clean. Simple wire brushes in Electric Drill. A 5% Fairy Liquid solution in a garden centre mist sprayer to spray the carbon area and then follow up with the wire brush in the electric drill used lightly. Finally use various grades of wet and dry ( 180-1200 and 2000 ) to obtain the desired finish. Used this method on twenty plus Rover O-S-T-K Series engines all with good results. Better to inspect surfaces and liner heights etc when properly clean too. :~



Good results using these simple methods :~



So this becomes this after treatment :~

Before :~



After :~

 

MGJohn, I remember a post you did a few years ago regarding cleaning the insides of a K series with HGF. I will remove the sump from my 1.8 VVC but was wondering how you clean all the waterways?

 

I run the engine for about 20-30 miles with some Holts Speedflush in the system. It gets rid of any remaining oil-coolant mix ( mayo ) from all the nooks and crannies in the cooling system which always lurk after CHG damage. Annoyingly reappearing later to worry the owner after the CHG fix.

I do not follow the instructions which is to run the engine with the SPEEDFlush in it at idle for a period. Not long or thorough enough. Drive normally with ordinary water and the Speedflush then drain and pressure clean with garden hose. That should get rid of all the oil remnants in the system. It's good stuff and works for me.

Do a search for my posts on the subject ~ there should be a few with illustrations showing just what comes out after the Speedflush ( search for ) treatment and how to pressure with garden hose after drain. Then fill with correct 50-50 OAT coolant mix and job's done.

This is the stuff :~

 

Ah yes, I remember that now. Thanks as always MGJ. Impressed with the MG6 engine project by the way.

 

I'm afraid I'd NEVER use a wire wheel on an aluminium head (as you'll remove metal with it). On cast iron blocks then you can use one, but personally I find kitchen scourer/ scotchbrite works just fine for all mine.

To remove the mayo a crumbled up dishwasher tablet in the expansion tank repeated a couple of times and then flushed out lots does the trick of emulsifying all the oil to get it flushed out of the cooling system rather than circulating around forever.

 

Well, there are several things which should be prepared before you clean head/block surfaces, including brake cleaner, degreaser, wire brushes, dishcloth and dish scrubber. Keep in mind that dry the head/block surfaces with a clean dishcloth after cleaning.