I take it you did a compression test, so maybe something's wrong with the injectors or fuel pump?

 

Compression was fine, fuel pump was replaced by my mate a week previous thinking it was the problem, along with fuel filter and coolant sensor.

 

The girl I bought my 45 TD off said she had to replace something like an air intake sensor on the car, as she had the same symptoms, loss of power etc

 

Thats a MAF sensor, only fitted to diesels and very unreliable! RoverRons site is the place you need to go for a good read about them.
Jim

 

Throttle potentiometer..My dads 820 did exactly the same thing and that was the problem. Knowing my luck it won't be this time!
Jim

 

Nope, lollipop and sherbet stay with me for a little while longer!!

 

I would hassard a totaly rediculous guess, but I will save myself the shame of being very wrong and wait it out for the answer, lol

 

Blocked air filter?

 

Lolipop stuck in the air intake, fuel contaminated with sherbert?

 

:rofl: Stranger things have happened!

 

Just a guess, dodgy HT lead?

 

Its bound to be something very odd, otherwise this thread wouldn't exist, so let me see........birds nest in the airbox???:rofl:

 

Problem: it had a diesel engine.

Solution: swap for a petrol engine.

 

my 400 has a lumpy idle when hot, whats the problem please tell me, it was prone to stalling aswell but seems like an intermittent fault, is this the same problem (sorry for hijacking the thread)

 

Faulty Lambda sensor, the heating element was open circuit.

Mmm, sherbet.

 

Faulty Lambda sensor, the heating element was open circuit.

Mmm, sherbet.

I was gunna say that, but I thought it was waaaaaayyyy to obvious! Now none of yous is gunna believe me!:taz:

 

Thankyou sooo much!!!!! how much is a lambda sensor? and would this really cause such strange side effects? i need to change my front pipe which was going to be my guess but now looks like more expense, at least its not terminal

would this cause the car to fail its MOT due to mine passed with this problem?

 

Can't say if it is the same problem with your car but it certainly was with this one.

What was more embarrassing was the list of items that my mate had changed in the "hope" that it might cure the fault, not to mention the cost.
Diagnostics would have pinpointed the problem if his expensive Brain Bee tool had of worked properly (awful piece of equipment!).

Fuel pump.
Fuel filter.
Coolant sensor.
Cam sensor.
Coil packs.
MAP sensor.

The only re-occurring fault code was P1185, which is the U/S Lambda sensor heating element.

I measured it's resistance and it was open circuit, the diagnostic tool showed it was drawing no current.

The Lambda sensor itself was switching, albeit very erratically, it would stick at 0 volts and 0.8 volt randomly which caused the car to run rich and lean all at the wrong times.

The sensor only works properly at temperatures of 300 deg. C and above, hence the heating element is used to get the sensor working initially and to constantly ensure the sensor is hot enough.

 

ouch!!! that is quite embarassing
thanks for the help, i'll try that first now rather than anything else in the hope that it works

 

hmm i had the same prob turned out to be ht leads they are carbon once water gets in2 them they are screwed as it cant get back out changed leads prob solved also rotor arm has a small capacitor or some thing in it and when that goes it can cause similar probs

 

Thanks god for that! I hate blackcurrent!!!!!!