There's no synchro for reverse on the PG1 so stick it into first before going into reverse.

 

That would go for the gearbox in my 45 then - which is 100 times nicer to engage into reverse.

 

i know this wont help but mines exactly the same, it seems to work slightly better if i duoble clutch it but that might just be my imagination, hopfully somone can shed some light on this, i'll ask some of my mechanic mates and see if anyone has an idea how to sort it,
if i get anywhere i'll let you know

 

Hmmmm, yours might be the same - very bad then? Mum had absolutely no issues driving my Rover 45 - which actually has a gearbox out of an MGF thinking about it (original was whining at 130k so I replaced it as it annoyed me). However this MGF is bad, she actually had to get my neighbour over to help reverse it off the drive yesterday morning lol. I find it bad, but can manage eventually - same with my dad. However my mum with thin wrists and less strong arms obviously struggles.

Could the gear cable adjustment be wrong, stopping it from going into reverse?

 

Get a new bell crank assy from mike satur, it will transform it

 

I have ordered one. Hopefully this will help once fitted.

 

Mine is exactly the same too, it went in to Austin Garages and they said 'there's nowt wrong with it, it's normal' so we do the 2nd gear then in to reverse, works most times. I do hate it though I must admit.

 

Mine is exactly the same too, it went in to Austin Garages and they said 'there's nowt wrong with it, it's normal' so we do the 2nd gear then in to reverse, works most times. I do hate it though I must admit.

"They all do that sir" - well mine does anyway and its 06 reg.

Although a pain in the arse ive just got used to putting it in 1st first then reverse, i dont even know i'm doing it now, its a quirk

I really struggle to believe it is normal. As said previously I have owned and driven several PG1 gearbox'ed cars, and yes they do not always go into reverse properly - I am fully aware of it being a common trait. But, NONE are as bad as this F. Indeed I know all about the into first and then reverse trick - used to do it on my 45 quite a lot, this F though.......that trick doesn't work.

Mum literally was trying for up to 5 minutes the other morning.

 

"They all do that sir" - well mine does anyway and its 06 reg.

 

Although a pain in the arse ive just got used to putting it in 1st first then reverse, i dont even know i'm doing it now, its a quirk

 

Aye, the mental thing is though, some are happy with 1st then in to reverse, some 2nd, some 4th. Strange cars yet adorable.

 

That definately doesnt sound right then, mine can be awkward but not to that degree.

 

Reverse

Hi I am new to MGs and mine does the same, I am also slight in build and thin wrists but I go for it and can tell when its not in so I release clutch and go for it harder it then goes in.
I have test drove a number while looking for my baby and it is definately a common fault, the whole gear box is not amazing but once you get used to it its fine, I was at Mike Satures having roll bars fitted and asked him what he thought he said its good so its normal, erm if their is a normal

 

Are you rushing the selection after depressing the clutch? If not may be the clutch isn't releasing fully.

 

got to say mine pops straight into reverse no probs and no need to select another gear first either.:bgrin:

 

Mine is fine too.

 

Mine is 2000 1.8i non VVC I get the loud clunk into reverse but I do not select any other gear first. The end of the cables onto the gearbox look worn so smetimes it does'nt go fully into reverse and I get the grind. I would suggest that you replace the piece onto the gearbox mechanism and your reverse will improve, also checK you gear cables they may be on the way out. I suspect the Mike Satur bell crank assembly is the gearbox linkage as per you have been advised.

 

It can also be down to the clutch release lever.

My Freelander gets worse every now and then, until I lube the clutch release lever and then it transforms the gear change.

The clutch release lever often starts seizing in the bell housing and prevents the clutch from fully disengaging. Because of this the gearbox is still spinning, which isn't so much of a problem with gears that have synchromesh, but reverse doesn't and graunches/is difficult to engage.

Not saying this is your problem, but it is a free fix if it is. Spray some release oil around the release arm and allow it to soak in. Now work the clutch for a while and apply more oil if needed.

 

Mike's bellcrank assembly is a God send.
On both of my manual geared cars I had problems
with reverse crunching and one even had a rose joint
break away leaving me to get home in a gear I worked
into by hand under the car and then slipped the clutch
on, luckily it was very snowy and icey as the gear I hit
was the fifth gear, took some doing but as I had no stops
or turns before home I got there.....

To install Mike's assembly you will need only a couple of small
spanners and a couple of stands, oh, and a small hammer
and punch for the locking pin, please don't give up
if you don't get the right settings first off on the gears
as it took me about an hour both times... But oh what
a difference it made to the gear change..... so slick and easy.

 

I can't see how changing cables etc will stop the box crunching when selecting gears. Surley this has to be clucth related. Or am I having a senior moment here?

 

The MG cable ends and bell crank get severe wear and create a sloppy gear change, cable change will never be as good as when the stick is directly above the box.
Remove as many crappy linkage points as poss, result, no more grinding gears

 

Sounds like Mike could have a bit of a run on these :lol: But seriously our's was a pain at times, always had to be stationary and at tick over and then slowly into reverse to make it smooth.
Does sound like you have a worn linkage somewhere in the chain, cables might have been changed but there could still be wear somewhere that's causing poor gear engagement

 

To add insult to injury the Workshop Manual has the following Reverse Brake description for the manual gearbox:

"A reverse brake mechanism has been introduced to the PG-1 gearbox, and is operated by the selector fork mechanism, which stops the input shaft from rotating prior to the engagement of reverse gear and provides a quiet and smooth engagement of reverse gear, providing the vehicle is stationary."

It doesn't appear to work very well does it !!!!!!

 

Holy thread revival!

Anyone else got an update? Anyone fitted the Mike bit and it still grinds and/or you have to select another gear prior to reverse?

Just curious.

 

i double clutch before engaging reverse otherwise it just wont go in

 

Oh, even after you fitted Mike's bell crank?

 

I had exactly the same issue with having trouble selecting reverse in my VVC.

Its worth checking the slave cylinder for the clutch, I replaced this and the problem was cured.

 

I guess this is the issue, some people have no problems, some do. Those who do seem to have different fixes too.

 

mines a pain to get into reverse as well but mainly when its been sitting a few hours.
I find even when putting into first first it doesnt select properly so i pull it into reverse but hold the gear lever down if that makes sense and slowly release the clutch, you will feel it engage then

These gearboxes are terrible when it comes to reverse!

 

These gearboxes are terrible when it comes to reverse!

I have 3 and the only one that is a pain is the Freelander and that is down to a sticking clutch release lever. A bit of lube and it becomes 100% better. The symptoms when it starts sticking are the same as yours, difficult to select gears, especially reverse.

 

Has anyone done a how to on cable adjustment as mine is a bit difficult in a few gears. Think my gear stick mechanism has a bit of play tho.


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