So after many months of putting this job to the side, I decided to get on the task. From reading the manual, it was a really easy job. Hardest part was actually sourcing the oil.
Here is a guide through, with pictures, for others who wish to attempt the job.
Please note that before the job is started, please drive the car for a while to get the oil really hot, it ensures that it is more fluid, and will drain fully from the system. When performing the job, leave the car in P.
1. First of all I set aside everything I needed for the operation, so that I knew I had everything for the task in hand.
The item list comprises of 5 bottles of ESSO EZL 799 CVT fluid (5 x 1 Litre, item code being XPT001002OF), a scissor jack, a pair of axle stands, a small flat head screw driver for the hose clips, a large bowl to catch the old oil, a torque wrench, a set of sockets and a standard wrench, a rag, tissues, latex gloves for your hands (the oil is corrosive to hands), and a funnel with a piece of hose pipe to give upright pouring into the gearbox.
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2. Open the bonnet. Begin by using the small flat head screwdriver to pop open the hose clips attached to the hose on the TB to the airbox. These were a pain to get at, especially the one on the air box. But this is probably because it was put back like this when the Head Gasket was done.
![Image]()
3. Once all the clips have been released, 2 in total, one on the TB and one on the air filter housing, remove the rubber flexi pipe to allow easier access to the gearbox.
![Image]()
4. Remove the dipstick from the gearbox.
![Image]()
5. Clean the dipstick, and set it down in a clean place.
![Image]()
6. Jack up the passenger side near the front wheel.
![Image]()
7. Place an axle stand under the car next to the jack, and lower the jack again, so the passenger side is supported off the floor.
![Image]()
8. Jack up the driver side near the front wheel.
![Image]()
9. Place an axle stand under the car next to the jack, and lower the jack again, so the driver side is supported off the floor.
![Image]()
10. The car should now be raised off the floor, allowing more room to access underneath the car.
![Image]()
11. Place a drip pan underneath the gearbox, ensuring that the drain plug is located over the bowl, otherwise oil will go all over the floor. I used a washing up bowl, and old disused one I should add.
![Image]()
12. Using a standard wrench, with an 8mm allen key attachment loosen the drain plug underneath the gear box.
![Image]()
13. The bolt will be really stuck on, but once the bolt is cracked, it will come off with your fingers.
![Image]()
14. With the bolt removed, the fluid will drain straight out from the box, from the pumps and cooling pipes. Plenty of splashing will occur.
![Image]()
15. Wait until all the oil has drained from the box, signified with just small drips happening.
![Image]()
16. With the drain plug which has been removed, separate it from the washer. The drain plug is actually a magnet, and attracts all the swarf floating around inside the gear box. Clean all the swarf off, so that the plug is clean.
![Image]()
17. Clean up the washer, removing any oil left on it.
![Image]()
18. I used a piece of tissue to remove the rubbish off the plug and washer, as can be seen, it was pretty dirty.
![Image]()
19. Remove the oil pan from underneath the gearbox, to get it out the way. Notice how my oil actually appears black, when infact it should be red/pink in colour.
![Image]()
20. With the washer, there is no need to replace it. Once cleaned, heat the washer up with a lighter, until it is annealed, and a slight tarnish appears. This ensures the washer is as new. Place the washer back on the plug, and hand screw it back into the drain plug hole. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the bolt up to a torque of 30NM.
![Image]()
21. Jack up the car again on the driver's side, to give enough room to get the axle stand out, and then lower the car back down again.
![Image]()
22. Jack up the car again on the passenger's side, to give enough room to get the axle stand out, and then lower the car back down again. The car will now be on it's four wheels again.
![Image]()
23. As the dipstick tube is set at an angle, using a standard funnel doesn't allow direct pouring. To allow easy pouring of the oil, I got a piece of hose pipe, about a foot in length. One end fits on to the funnel end. The other end is in fact the same diameter as the dipstick tube. To solve this, cut a slit of about an inch, so that the tube can be curled slightly so it fits into the dipstick.
![Image]()
24. Carefully pour the oil into the funnel at a steady rate. Do not allow the oil to pool up inside the funnel, as the downflow will force up air causing it to bubble everywhere. The total amount I put for the first fill was 4 litres. This displayed as minimum on the dipstick.
![Image]()
25. I used 4 bottles for the first initial fill. All empty ones can be kept to pour the old oil back into for safe disposal at a local rubbish dump which accepts oils.
![Image]()
Continued next post....
Here is a guide through, with pictures, for others who wish to attempt the job.
Please note that before the job is started, please drive the car for a while to get the oil really hot, it ensures that it is more fluid, and will drain fully from the system. When performing the job, leave the car in P.
1. First of all I set aside everything I needed for the operation, so that I knew I had everything for the task in hand.
The item list comprises of 5 bottles of ESSO EZL 799 CVT fluid (5 x 1 Litre, item code being XPT001002OF), a scissor jack, a pair of axle stands, a small flat head screw driver for the hose clips, a large bowl to catch the old oil, a torque wrench, a set of sockets and a standard wrench, a rag, tissues, latex gloves for your hands (the oil is corrosive to hands), and a funnel with a piece of hose pipe to give upright pouring into the gearbox.
2. Open the bonnet. Begin by using the small flat head screwdriver to pop open the hose clips attached to the hose on the TB to the airbox. These were a pain to get at, especially the one on the air box. But this is probably because it was put back like this when the Head Gasket was done.
3. Once all the clips have been released, 2 in total, one on the TB and one on the air filter housing, remove the rubber flexi pipe to allow easier access to the gearbox.
4. Remove the dipstick from the gearbox.
5. Clean the dipstick, and set it down in a clean place.
6. Jack up the passenger side near the front wheel.
7. Place an axle stand under the car next to the jack, and lower the jack again, so the passenger side is supported off the floor.
8. Jack up the driver side near the front wheel.
9. Place an axle stand under the car next to the jack, and lower the jack again, so the driver side is supported off the floor.
10. The car should now be raised off the floor, allowing more room to access underneath the car.
11. Place a drip pan underneath the gearbox, ensuring that the drain plug is located over the bowl, otherwise oil will go all over the floor. I used a washing up bowl, and old disused one I should add.
12. Using a standard wrench, with an 8mm allen key attachment loosen the drain plug underneath the gear box.
13. The bolt will be really stuck on, but once the bolt is cracked, it will come off with your fingers.
14. With the bolt removed, the fluid will drain straight out from the box, from the pumps and cooling pipes. Plenty of splashing will occur.
15. Wait until all the oil has drained from the box, signified with just small drips happening.
16. With the drain plug which has been removed, separate it from the washer. The drain plug is actually a magnet, and attracts all the swarf floating around inside the gear box. Clean all the swarf off, so that the plug is clean.
17. Clean up the washer, removing any oil left on it.
18. I used a piece of tissue to remove the rubbish off the plug and washer, as can be seen, it was pretty dirty.
19. Remove the oil pan from underneath the gearbox, to get it out the way. Notice how my oil actually appears black, when infact it should be red/pink in colour.
20. With the washer, there is no need to replace it. Once cleaned, heat the washer up with a lighter, until it is annealed, and a slight tarnish appears. This ensures the washer is as new. Place the washer back on the plug, and hand screw it back into the drain plug hole. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the bolt up to a torque of 30NM.
21. Jack up the car again on the driver's side, to give enough room to get the axle stand out, and then lower the car back down again.
22. Jack up the car again on the passenger's side, to give enough room to get the axle stand out, and then lower the car back down again. The car will now be on it's four wheels again.
23. As the dipstick tube is set at an angle, using a standard funnel doesn't allow direct pouring. To allow easy pouring of the oil, I got a piece of hose pipe, about a foot in length. One end fits on to the funnel end. The other end is in fact the same diameter as the dipstick tube. To solve this, cut a slit of about an inch, so that the tube can be curled slightly so it fits into the dipstick.
24. Carefully pour the oil into the funnel at a steady rate. Do not allow the oil to pool up inside the funnel, as the downflow will force up air causing it to bubble everywhere. The total amount I put for the first fill was 4 litres. This displayed as minimum on the dipstick.
25. I used 4 bottles for the first initial fill. All empty ones can be kept to pour the old oil back into for safe disposal at a local rubbish dump which accepts oils.
Continued next post....
