http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=1628262#post1628262

 

The wheel hubs have the reluctor ring built into them on the 75/ZT not a metal ring on a driveshaft like the Rover 45.

 

Cheers guys gives me a little more to go on,

-- multimeter check first from French Mike's post thanks to Jakg thread above,
-- and least I'll be able to speak the speak when back at garage on Tuesday
regarding built in reluctor ring, thanks Simcor.

 

When I say a built in reluctor ring, it is more of metal inserts that are read magnetically by the sensor as I understand it, rather than an actual reluctor ring.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showpost.php?p=4012487&postcount=7 post 7 shows the part of the rear hub that is read by the ABS sensor.

 

Cheers Simcor,
thats a massive help, will post how I get on

 

I'd take the hub off again and have a look at the sensor face. Not be surprised if some rust from the backplate fallen off while changing the hub and maybe damaged its face or just clogged up in there affecting the signal.

As for the steering, any decent garage changing a wishbone would know to check the tracking. Do you really want to be going back there?

 

As for the steering, any decent garage changing a wishbone would know to check the tracking. Do you really want to be going back there?

My preferred garage are very good and very cheap when it comes to the mechanicals, but they just can't track a car very well.

When I let them change anything suspension related (most recently, passenger side wishbone) I usually end up having to take it to a different garage to get a proper 4 wheel Hunter alignment done.

 

Question for Jakg:
How did you get multimeter onto sensor wire as per French Mike's thread?
Did you have to strip a little insulation off the pulse wire i.e. one of the two smaller yellow wires at one end of blue sensor (the black thick wire at other end of the sensor is the 12v dc feed so dont need to go near that).
Have checked out your thread regarding what seems identical issue to mine, great detail by the way Jakg, what was the eventual outcome??
I'm gonna try multimeter first then if not conclusive borrow a scope from work.
By the way had tracking done as suggested and steering wheel is now where it should be.
Thanks in anticipation.
Steve

 

How did you get multimeter onto sensor wire as per French Mike's thread?
Did you have to strip a little insulation off the pulse wire i.e. one of the two smaller yellow wires at one end of blue sensor (the black thick wire at other end of the sensor is the 12v dc feed so dont need to go near that).

Pin through the cable, crocodile clips off the pin.

Thread is still being updated (on the other side) - but I know it's the left rear. Going to try a sensor first, then bearing if required.

 

Cheers Jakg, simple solutions always the best, fingers crossed we both get sorted.

 

Problem finally resolved.
Lesson learnt, never never use a garage unless you know their reputation.
I eventually used Signature Auto Care LTD who specialise in Rovers (11 Clifton Business Park Preston New Road Preston PR40XQ). Pricey but super proffesional service and on the doorstep of where I work at BAE. Needed it sorted ASAP.........
The front ABS passenger sensor they suspect did not need changing in the first place, albeit Signatures T4 diagnosed that straight away, when they took the recenlty replaced ABS sensor off they could see evidence of old one still in place and in screwing the replacement one in place the other garage had snapped the new one but not so you could see visually. Signature replaced and T4 fault gone.
However ABS still on at low speed breaking.
They removed the complete rear passenger Hub and bearing that the other garage had fitted to find the reluctor ring was heavily contaminated with grease and some minor debris, this they polished re fitted and car back to her usual self.
An expensive and time consuming lessen for me.
Thanks in particular to Jakq who pointed me in the direction of using a multimeter connected to the ABS blue sensor under the bopnnet as per French Mike's instruction. See link in thread #2 above. In doing this it showed approx a steady 1.9Vdc for x3 of the car wheels when rotated through 360 degress, only the front drivers osillated from 0.7 - 1.7Vdc showing a constant and even spread throughout the 360 degrees rotation as expected (for me was nearer 1.9 but metre a cheap ALDI affair) If this does not make sense folks again look at Jakq Link at thread #2 which gives excellent detail of what I have just described.