Castrol Magnatec 10w140 semi synth.

 

I wouldn't use that unless it's a new engine and had something similar all its working life. The standard GTX is best suited to an engine with those miles on it. Your local XPart stockist will keep the sump drain plug washers. I did mine this weekend and used MGR products.

 

In a K series.

I would put nothing less than quality 10w40 semi synth in one.

 

Thanks a lot for the advice guys, i dont know what oil it has been run on as i have only had it for about 3/4 weeks, one of you has suggested a semi synthetic oil and one of you has suggested a normal oil, what is the difference ? Is a synthetic oil not good for an older car ? Sorry to be a pest guys but i really dont want to do any damage to my engine or make it run badly,

cheers

Cally

 

If you really want the best, then see the Castrol TXT or BP Visco 5000, both very good semi and 10W40.

100k miles for these engines are peanuts... they still have another 100k miles to give (ok, with one or two HGF, but that is another story :lol: ), so don't use thicker oils if you do not need them.

 

I used Havoline 15w 40 in mine when I recently changed the oil & filter...dont think the had been changed for about 20k miles lmao. Runs alot better now its been changed.

 

Doesn't matter if it's mineral or semi synth as long as it's the right grade of 10w/40, but semi-synth is the preferred.
Also I agree with the above. These engines suffer from little wear if they have had regular oil changes. The ones I've stripped look just like they would out of the factory. Honing on cylinders on 100,000 mile K series engines just like it was done yesterday.


K series engines don't die from wear, but other problems.

 

Doesn't matter if it's mineral or semi synth as long as it's the right grade of 10w/40, but semi-synth is the preferred.
Also I agree with the above. These engines suffer from little wear if they have had regular oil changes. The ones I've stripped look just like they would out of the factory. Honing on cylinders on 100,000 mile K series engines just like it was done yesterday.


K series engines don't die from wear, but other problems.

Allthough our 214 stated knocking from the rods at 84k miles; the oil hadn't been changed for about 4 years plus for all its life it was driven by my mum to tesco's and back or down town and back and only ever got properly warmed up and used about once a year, so I expect this is why. So I would tend to agree with you. Friends of ours had the same car but it was looked after and it had done 120k when they got rid of it and the engine was still running perfect it was the gearbox had failed.

 

My God

Thanks for the replys all, i dont know how long its been since the last oil change but that is by far the worst oil i have ever seen dropped from an engine ! it was full of rather large bits of grit and crap i dread to think what damage its done to the engine, after halfords selling me the wrong oil filter i finally managed to get it finished this evening, it sounds soooooo much better and as for that high pitched / whirring noise i havent heard it ....YET

Thank you to all

Cally

 

ask at www.opieoils.co.uk

they should be able to help you

 

ask at www.opieoils.co.uk

they should be able to help you

And expect to be sold the oil that they want to sell

 

I'm using BP Visco 5000 10w40 with no complaints by the engine. I think it's an adequate oil for our k-series engines.

 

I'm using Mobil 5W-50, costs about 27 € / 4 litres, and I believe it is good oil. Few times I used Shell 5W-40 but heard awful rumours about that oil so I changed back to Mobil. BP Visco has also visited in my Rovers engine, but not any more because nobody sells it here in Finland

The Mobil 5W-50 stays in engine, no oil consumptions what so ever, and in clock is now almost 191000km, so I have decided that I use that oil as long as it keeps in engine

 

I'm using Mobil 5W-50, costs about 27 € / 4 litres, and I believe it is good oil. Few times I used Shell 5W-40 but heard awful rumours about that oil so I changed back to Mobil. BP Visco has also visited in my Rovers engine, but not any more because nobody sells it here in Finland

The Mobil 5W-50 stays in engine, no oil consumptions what so ever, and in clock is now almost 191000km, so I have decided that I use that oil as long as it keeps in engine

Different climates - different grades, however I would have thought that grade too thick.

 

Naa, they are very good and know their stuff.

 

Finaly oil explained !!!!!! Thanks a lot mate thats exactly what i wanted to know

 

You do hear and read all sorts of things about oil, this is good, this is bad, don't use that, use this, too thick, too thin. Nobody seems to know. I use, and will always use, Mobile 1.

 

Olive oil is fine for most uses, but if cooking at higher temperatures I tend to go for a ground nut oil. Sesame can give a nice flavour. Do not waste your cash on cooking with extra virgin olive oil as the heat ruins it - this should only be used in salad dressings etc

Oh, and I would have thought that the owner's handbook would give a fairly good indication of which oil to use in your motor - as stated above different engines are designed to use different oils. In general anything with a 10W rating would be fine in the UK (it's not often below 0F), and a 30 Summer rating will usually suffice, unless you intend towing for long periods or generally using the engine at higher temperatures, in which case a 40 would be better. Once again, the handbook should give a good indication

 

The two rating is for the weights (viscosity) of the oil.

10 w 40

the first one is the oil weight when cold

the second one is the hot weight

hence the term "multigrade oil"


http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

"Multi-grade motor oil
The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.



The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F). The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle.

Many new vehicles are marked to use 5W20 oil (Honda, Ford and more recently Toyota). Some ultra fuel efficient and hybrid vehicles are marked to use 0W20 oil"

 

Oil

So ashy, Can you tell me the grade of oil I should use in my '87 825 sterling with around 65000kms/35-40k miles? Normal climate temps, max 25, min 3degc.
Also, my lady's 91 820si liftback. ex England 145000 miles, this one has had piston slap for the last five years or so but goes well.
I do prefer full synthetic oils. I use TOTAL (french) in my diesel work van, good oil.
Also, with my 825, are there any special things I should know about with this motor, i.e. precautions, how many kms/miles per oil change etc, as i've heard that these motors were not very good.