10mm spanner
Jack & Axle Stands/Ramps
Can't remember the sump plug nut size
Something to remove the old filter (a screwdriver will do if all else fails)
Something to catch the old oil in

I use Motaquip 10W/40 £8 a gallon :broon:

That's about it.

 

The sump plug is 15mm, so you will need a 15mm spanner or socket.

To remove the oil filter you should use a strap wrench or oil filter wrench. Remember though that the old oil filter is being disposed of so it doesn't matter if you damage it removing it. An old trick is to punture a screwdriver through it and use that to get enough turning force to remove it. Fitting is hand tight only.

You will need a pair of ramps, or axle stands to work under the car safely.

You could also invest in a proper oil drainer, which is like a container that you lie under the sump to catch the old oil.

Dispose of the old oil and filter correctly and remember that old engine oil is carcinogenic.

The engine cover is held in place with 10mm bolts.

I would use Magnatec oil personally. You might want to use a cheap oil first to flush the engine and remove any debris.

Good luck.

 

Thanks chaps. Looks like I can probably buy all the tools I need for the cost of an A service at a garage. So (as long as I actually manage to do it right) I won't save any money this time round, but I'll have all the tools ready for a cheaper service next time.

 

and the inevitable afterthought questions....

1) presumably the grade of cheap oil that I use isn't critical (i.e. ok if I use an old 15W40 that I have lying around)?

2) And do i need to fill the engine right up with oil when doing this 'flush', or could I get away with 3 litres of so if that's all I have? What I don't want to do is damage the engine in the process of trying to look after it nicely!

Thanks again

 

Just use a cheap oil to the right spec. I personally put the oil in, run the engine until warm and then drain. Gives the oil a chance to get to all little nooks etc.

 

Tesco's own nasty 10W40 it is then - £9 for 5 litres.
Thanks

 

I don't jack the car to do the oil - it obviously makes the job a bit harder working one handed but I'm just not a fan of jacking and supporting a car if I don't absolutely have to. I've also never flushed an engine prior to doing an oil change. It seems to be the recommended thing on this forum, but if you're changing the oil with good quality stuff on a regular basis then I'm not convinced that flushing is doing anything more than just taking your cheap oil from Tescos straight to your recycling place. A funnel will be useful to get the oil into the narrow remote filler tube unless you elect to remove the engine cover and fill via the main filler cap. If you do use the tube, DON'T add the oil too quickly or it'll back up the tube and dribble all over your engine bay. This I know! Best of luck.

 

I don't jack the car to do the oil

For oil change only, I just pop the side jack under the sill to give better access to the sump plug and filter. No need to axle stand providing you only put your arm underneath, not your head. The car needs to be level and off the jack to drain all the oil otherwise a litre or so will sit laughing at you in the left hand side of the sump.

 

Not sure it is the favoured way on this site, but I prefer it. Try it sometime. As an example, drain your oil, put the plug back in and add some fresh oil and remove the plug again. Is it nice clean oil that comes out or is it dirty? My experience is that you will get dirty oil before it runs clean. I would prefer to start with clean oil than already contaminated. Also, you can get metallic residue that sits in the bottom of the sump that doesn't clear on first drain. A flush with clean oil or proper flush can remove this.

You probably won't see any physical benefit from a flush, I just prefer to clean it out when given the chance.

 

I use Mobil 1 and change every 10000km with a new filter or if havn't done the 10K every January prior to our first super sprint meet. Mine has done 158000km and is a 98 model VVC.

 

I only have my 01 F 2 months. Checked the dip stick about 2 weeks ago and its still fairly clear, light brown but mostly clear. I bought 5/40 fully synthetic in Halfords. I bought it to have on hand as fully synth is not always easy to get. I couldn't find a fully synth 10/40. Is there such a thing?

Anyway, fully synthetic is always better then the others.

Question: I see Halfords call their part synthetic. Is this different to semi synthetic?

I'll probably do a flush when changing the oil. Would a mineral oil do and only run the engine for 5 mins or so? Idle only or drive for a bit?

Best of luck on your diy mechanics. I'm in the same mind as you.

 

....Anyway, fully synthetic is always better then the others......

not for a VVC engine allegedly

 

hmm bettter change the oil on Red 19
it's been a while since I did it last time but only about 5000 mls

 

Well, finally got round to doing the service today - took it nice and slow as I am not a gifted mechanic by a long stretch.

Took quite a while just getting into the engine bay...not massively tricky, but I was very slow, worrying that I was trashing my pride and joy by hacking my way into it.

Anyway....did air filter change and an oil flush...but got hopelessly stuck trying to get the oil filter off. I did have a Draper Strap wrench but it wouldn't work, the filter was on tight and the way the wrench works was a funny angle of attack etc.

(Also had various nightmares trying to jack the car up (bottle wrench wouldn't even fit under. Tried using a yellow pages as a ramp, then borrowed a jack off some dudes in a van.)

So - I'm off to Halfords tomorrow i think, to get a wrench that i can pull straight forwards - better leverage that way.


Hopefully I'll crack it...but man I really do believe that the labour charges to work on our cars are justified.

One final question - how the heck do you get to the engine mounts to tighten them? I think I can see them, but without a metre long extension bar (or a set of proper ramps) I don't see how I can get to them...

Cheers all

 

Mobile one is supposidly good.
I use Shell Helix ultra 5w40 fully synth; one because its good quality and two i suppose as i only run on vPower i get points too!

 

The proper tool for removing a stuck filter is called a screwdriver. :bgrin:

 

I felt really clever when I tried that...but it just carved through the outer layer of the filter and didn't shift it

I've just walked 3 miles to Halfrauds, bought a better tool and proper trolley jack so i'm on the case! I will be victorious...

 

Quick Question

Hi,

Just a quick question related to this - approximately how much oil is required to fill from empty? Am going to do an oil change for the first time, and wondering how much of the good stuff to get! (will be flushing first with some of the old cheap oil in my garage).

 

i think it should take about 4.5l - at least thats how much went into mine on Saturday

I used Shell Helix 10w40 as it worked out at £20 for 5l.
As Magnatec only do 4l bottles now I would have needed that extra bit and worked out closer to £33 I think with a discount.

 

I use this:



http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...ies/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/10w40-engine-oil/?521776011&0&cc5_245






Cheap as chips and in a 5L can. :lol:

 

I tried from below and then found I got better purchase with the strap wrench, loosening the oil filter from above.

Good luck.

 

Just (5 mins ago) changed my oil, had to use the screwdriver method as I left my proper tool somewhere... ended up having to go right through both sides or it was just tearing the metal, but it worked in the end

FWIW mine took 4L (and yes, I drained it on the flat off the jack!)

 

I'm sure the OP has got his filter off by now, it was 2008 after all