Nothing wrong m8, you'll have to live with it.

 

oh well....

is there anything i can do to quiet them down?

cheers

 

oh well....

is there anything i can do to quiet them down?

cheers

theres so much on this forum about this mate, if i was you have a search round, your bound to find some answers, happy hunting!!

Ben.

 

ok cheers

i've just had a listen and its not coming from the injectors like i thought!?

it sounds like its coming from the exhaust manifold or just behined it i.e the engine block!

could it be something to do with the pistons??

 

ahhh just had a thought!

could it be the tappets? do they make a kind of 'ticking' sound? it also kind of sounds like a faint crunching of a crisp packet in your hand?????

are they tappets situated at the front of the engine, near the exhaust manifold?

 

ahhh just had a thought!

could it be the tappets? do they make a kind of 'ticking' sound? it also kind of sounds like a faint crunching of a crisp packet in your hand?????

are they tappets situated at the front of the engine, near the exhaust manifold?

Tappets are situated at the top of the engine under the cams. They work in sync with the valves. They push the valves down. If it is pistion slap, does it not disappear when norm. op. temp? Have you change the oil lately? if so, the thinner oil gives a pistion slap effect. Thicker oil just helps to quieten the noise. Again, a lad with a mgzr had this prob only recently with bore wash (petrol washing the oil off the liners)
Any chance you could record the sound of the engine and post it up here?

 

cheers for the reply

umm not sure if its the tappets then, but the noise is coming from where the cams are though?

doubt its piston slap as its still there when warm - just quieter though

i original thought it was the gearbox making noise???

i'll try and get a recording

cheers again

 

oh and its just had a service so the oil was changed (10w40)

the thing is it was there before the service??

 

oh and its just had a service so the oil was changed (10w40)

the thing is it was there before the service??

try and get a recording mate, im getting a bit confused with your pin point techniques!

 

Could be that the tappets are worn or pitted. Take off the cam cover and have a look at them. It might give you some clues, and you'll definitely see if it's oil starvation. 10 minute job and well easy, even if you're not mechanically competent. Drop me a line if you don't have a Haynes and you want me to talk you through it.

 

my number 1 injector makes an almighty ticking noise, its surprising how loud a injector solenoid can be...

 

This sounds potentially serious.

 

my mate bought a car froma garage with an almighty shed of an engine, that had serious tapping noises and crunching.

he took it to rover and they said:

piston slap
low compression in all four cylinders
a blowwing exhaust
F***ed injection system and loads more

best bet is (if ya can afford it) take it to rover and get em to have a tinker.

 

Ive got a 220 coupe also and am experiencing the same sort of problem!!
when accelerating or decelerating its fine but when held at constant revs say between 2.5k to 4k my engine rattles. Im thinking its maybe the tappets (hopefully) or the big end bearings. Any one else had this trouble or know someone that has advice would be appreciated.

 

If you want a value-for-money diagnosis, I'd steer clear of dealership workshops.


They only seem happy to replace units; by that I mean engines etc etc

I wouldn't worry too much about undue engine mechanical noises.

 

Nothing like resurecting a thread...

I have EXACTLY the same problem with my coupe.

Anyone find out what the answer is to this?

 

well i do have spare 220 turbo engine bits, and honda 216 engine bits if you want cheap parts let me know

 

Tappits went south in mine after 2 valves bent post HG repair. (Valves were sorted for free by the garage - i had to pay parts for the new tappits).

Cost me £240 if i recall. 2x set of 8 tappits from Rover.

Been quiet as a mouse since then.

 

hydraulic Tappets probably

 

hydraulic Tappets probably

MOST modern engines use hydraulic tappets.

Ben.

 

MOST modern engines use hydraulic tappets.

Ben.

Er yes I know........and your point is?

I think think the noise problem is being caused by clogged oilways to the tappets, which causes them to 'underinflate' for want of a better word.

You need to run 100 miles with a thin oil, say 0w, and then change again back to 10W-40 to flush the particles through.

 

This might help??

Found this...it might help?? :eyes:

How to clean/recondition your Hydraulic Tappets

By Yunus Patel from Club Calibra


As you know when an engine reaches high mileage, components are not what they were when they were fresh and young. Though the deciding factor is the care that the owner takes to maintain youth reliability of components. Regular servicing and oil changes are a must, also the use of good quality oil, not the cheap reconditioned oil.

If you imagine at start up a thicker oil would take some time to pressurise the tappets, as the oil feed hole is very small, so a thinner oil would flow into this more quickly. Another factor for rattles on tappets is the oil feed hole may become blocked, with sludge, subsequently the inside where the piston valve run would also suffer from this and possible varnish build up.

Now with hydraulic tappets, it is generally best to use an oil that flows well, not necessarily Mobil 0W40, but a range from about 0W – 10W should be fine. I personally have found 5W40 a good compromise.

Engine flush may help, but if they are really blocked, or infact the spring inside the lifter is broken, there is no way you will know other than taking them out and cleaning and testing each lifter.

 

Found this...it might help?? :eyes:

How to clean/recondition your Hydraulic Tappets

By Yunus Patel from Club Calibra


As you know when an engine reaches high mileage, components are not what they were when they were fresh and young. Though the deciding factor is the care that the owner takes to maintain youth reliability of components. Regular servicing and oil changes are a must, also the use of good quality oil, not the cheap reconditioned oil.

If you imagine at start up a thicker oil would take some time to pressurise the tappets, as the oil feed hole is very small, so a thinner oil would flow into this more quickly. Another factor for rattles on tappets is the oil feed hole may become blocked, with sludge, subsequently the inside where the piston valve run would also suffer from this and possible varnish build up.

Now with hydraulic tappets, it is generally best to use an oil that flows well, not necessarily Mobil 0W40, but a range from about 0W – 10W should be fine. I personally have found 5W40 a good compromise.

Engine flush may help, but if they are really blocked, or infact the spring inside the lifter is broken, there is no way you will know other than taking them out and cleaning and testing each lifter.

The idea of using a thin oil is to increase the flow through the tappet and hopefully dislodge foreign matter.
The implication here is that thinner oil will help operation of the tappet. This isn't quite true because if you run thinner oil it reduces the oil pressure and thus reduces the tappets operating range

 

Mouser's K gets Magnatec, but my 1.6 K gets 5W40 semi-synth.

Both seem to be doing equally well, to be honest. But maybe that's because the oil gets changed every 6k?

 

hydraulic Tappets probably

from your last post sounded like you were saying that the K may have Hydrulic tappets, thats what it read like anyhow, no need to get rowdy 'mate'.