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This is how I changed the 75 manual gearbox oil

14K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  oddsocks  
#1 ·
It's been a nice day today so I decided to service the car as its at 88,800 mile and no doubt in a few weeks(at 90k) it will be wet and cold.

Checking Haynes, the gearbox oil needed changing. Some words of wisdom (learned the hard way some years ago)......

ALWAYs check you can undo the filler/level plug BEFORE you undo the drain plug!

On the 75 its fiddly but not too hard if you go in from the passenger side with that wheel off. Both the filler and drain are a T50 torx (not allen although an 8mm allen socket fitted almost as well). Both are tightened to 35Nm so shouldn't be too hard to undo.

With the car level I drained out 1500ml (note to self to buy a new measuring jug for the kitchen). After a trip to Halfords for 2 bottles of Castrol synthetic (CSX fom memory) and a pack of slick 50 gearbox oil I mixed up 1500ml . To make it easier to fill, I used an old funnel with the end cut off and approx 1m length of garden hose jammed in - this is a tight fit in the gearbox filler hole. It was then a simple task to fill the gearbox via the funnel.

When I removed the hose there was no overflow, so I then used the plastic bellows type oilcan that came in the slick kit (designed to extract oil) to top up in 80ml increments. In all it took about 1800ml before the level overflowed (haynes said 1400 on change, 1600 on dry).
The hardest part was getting the filler plug pack in - I ended up putting a piece of tissue paper over the T50 bit so that it gripped the plug to stop it falling off.

Excluding the trip to halfords (and ÂŁ40) the job took about 20 mins. Time will tell if it makes a difference but I have always used Slick 50 in engine and gearbox on all my cars....and have not had an engine or gearbox failure yet (driving up to 150k in some).
 
#3 ·
Its the 2.0 diesel CDT 2003 model. To get to the filler plug I used 2 x 12" straight extensions and a wobble bar at the torx end fed through the wheel arch. The drain plug was accessed from underneath the car with the torx skt on the rachet.

Looking in Haynes the gear ratios are different for the diesel so maybe the layout is different for the plugs
 
#6 ·
30 mins to complete the job including gaining access to the plug etc?

just done mine the other day, on my CDT and the hardest part was getting the filler/level plug back in
Yes, 20 - 30 mins (I had the car jacked and wheel off so took about 20 mins. As I posted earlier, I used a piece of tissue to act as a jam on the torx - I had no blue tac and magnitising the bit wasn't quite enough. It would have been a lot easier with two pairs of hands to refit that!
 
#8 ·
both are true...my drive is on a slope from garage to house so when parked it's level front to back but higher on one side. I had actually positioned the car so that the engine drain plug was on the downhill side (that was the first service job) which meant my gearbox drain was 'uphill'. I lowered the passenger side off the axle stand onto some thick blocks (under the car) so that that disc was about 75mm off the ground. I then put a spirit level on the the front of the car and jacked the driver side up until the bubble read level - nett result level car but passenger wheel still off.

if you are on level ground you could probably get the car level by just letting the passenger side down (gently) onto blocks - First I would loosen both plugs before and position a shallow collecting tray (at least 2l) as access will be easier with that side higher.

the undertray was already off for the oil change, but looking at mine now yes it does - it fits right up to the the wheel arch trim. You need to jack at least one side up and support it so that you can get to the 10 (from memory) twist lock fittings.