Are you losing water, or do you have any cross contamination between oil and water?

It doesn't sound like a head gasket failure, and even so, they shouldn't cost £1000 to put right! Where are you based? <edit> Just saw you answered this question already, there are mobile mechanics who'll travel to you for the cost of fuel, and will still probably be about half the price - if it's a head gasket failure!

 

there is some good people on here who will be a long shortly and do a great job, and come well recommended by people who have used them on the forum, thats why i have bumped this back up for you.

 

Thanks.
I'm not losing any water and there's no sign of any "mayo" on the dipstick.

Fingers crossed its not the gasket after all.

 

It never ceases to amaze me that garages will blame the head gasket in just about every case with these cars.
'Cigarette lighter doesn't work??? Must be the head gasket mate.'

Overheating with no sign of mayo is 'normally' an airlock in the system, a blocked or collapsed hose, a faulty thermostat or coolant cap or a leak.

This is not to say it is NOT head gasket failure but look for the above things first.

 

Overheating with no sign of mayo is 'normally' an airlock in the system,

Was with mine.

I guess HGF is like points back in the day. Only thing the AA man new anything about

 

You aren't losing any water - that's good.

There's no evidence of mayo on the dipstick - that's good.

Why do you say it is overheating?

The head gasket does not warp, it's the head that warps - is that what the garage said? If so, get another garage.

Best of all, get one of our mobile mechs to look at it, even if it is HGF and warped head, that is only about £350 plus travel costs

 

Thanks for all this good advice.
If there are any mobile mechs who operate in the Ayrshire/central belt could you PM me please.

Many thanks

 

26 plus miles, might only be just enough to get the engine up to temp... at which point the thermostat should be fully open..

until it that happens coolant cant circulate fully through the rad, it will choose the shortest route in the case of any obstruction.. ( like a partially closed thermostat for example )
so as you have a new thermostat its unlikely to be the thermostat that is the cause.

until the coolant is hot enough to open the thermostat fully, the coolant can only go round the block and the heater.. and even when the thermostat is fully open, if the radiator isnt fully clear.. the flow through it might not be sufficient to lose heat quick enough..

the coolant will overheat if so.. and its nothing to do with the head gasket its the radiator...

but.. if the coolant cant circulate the engine properly, then local hotspots in the head happen..... so it could not just be lack of flow in the radiator, but lack of flow round the engine..


still it doesnt mean head gasket failure..

?

if the head gasket fails... and combustion gasses reach the coolant circuit the coolant will heat up so quickly even in an otherwise perfect circuit, that the water will boil big time.. and pressure will cause the vent cap in the header tank to open quickly.. far less than 26 miles... maybe as few as 6 miles given the summer temperatures..

there is the possibility that any "leaks " from anywhere, are in early stage fail..


I would check the radiator for clear flow..

I would get the system pressure tested to 1 bar... to see it held pressure and that there were no leaks.. and that correct bleeding of air was carried out.

i would check the temperature of the coolant with an independent thermometer... at the sensor point the ecu uses...

i would seek to eliminate all possible coolant flow / temp causes before i suspected a head gasket failure..

 

if no coolant is lost and we are sure of this. the most likely cause is a blockage some where or quite possibly a failed water pump impeller shaft. i would place my bets on the water pump.

 

Agreed. The water pump would be where I would be checking first. Had exactly the same fault happen and it was the water pump.

 

Are these water pumps made of cheese? Still got the original on a 30yo Ford and a 21yo 4trak.

 

no.. they are not, i think.

my recent cambelts change topic post tells me they are made of stronger stuff.. possibly a good indian curry..

 

Can we hide this thread from MrBateson before he has a coronary lol ? l:lol:

 

Have a look at MG Freedom. There are recommended mobile mechanics in the Glasgow area that could help

http://mg-freedom.proboards.com/thread/2240/recommended-mechanics-suppliers

 

Looking for some advice and guidance on the head gasket on my 2001 non VVC MGF.
Mileage is 116k

I've been having some trouble with overheating. It usually happens after around driving 25 - 30 miles.
Took the car to the local (former MG dealer) garage and they first bleed the system but problem persisted. The thermostat and housing and radiator have also been replaced but again the overheating still occurs.
They are now saying the gasket is probably warped due to the previous high temperatures.
They're quoting silly money to replace the gasket (£1000)

They also found a hose from one of the bleed points was restricted when warm which I assume was rectified.
The car then went on a test drive for 26+ miles with no problem but when they took it out the following day the overheating problem was back. This was when they suggested changing the head gasket.

Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.
Anyone recommend a reasonable and knowledgable garage/mechanic in the Ayrshire/Scottish region that could replace the gasket if needed?

Many thanks.

I have exactly the same problem, can bleed system and car is great up to 25/30 miles then temp shoots into red and have to stop. could run car in garage for hours and no problems but as soon as you were on a run and did 25 miles or so the problem reappeared. thing is you can let it cool and bleed system, this brings water level in expansion bottle back to normal height indicating no water use, this perplexed me. did some investigation and borrowed a sniffer tester, this test is to find co2 in the cooling system that would be left if there was gas being forced passed head gasket or porous head etc, if no change in colour of the test liquid all is ok, if result was a change in colour there was a problem, test done and there was a colour change so this weekend I have reluctantly taken head off. I have found a area of breech of three cylinders into the waterways above the shim that goes above the head gasket, must only be issue under combustion under load. im having head skimmed if it can as it was done previously in 2006 and fitting new head bolts, multy layer gasket and shim, waterpump, cam belt. the semi wet liners seem to be at same level as head or slightly above so liner position should be ok and not the cause of the problem. I did buy my mg as spares or repair from a friend of otherehalf, they had head gasket previously done in 2012, head gasket but no skim or new head bolts, couple of months ago had the pipe that goes into return rail to thermostat spring a leak, obviously this caused a overheat and hopefully cause of this problem but didn't want to spend any more money on her so its my gain as body wise shes a cracker. I would post some pictures of head and gasket but havnt a clue where to start with that. cost wise so far its £20 cam belt,£50 head bolts and head set, £20 water pump, unsure of cost of head skim as yet but at least I don't have to pay labour evenso your £1000 quote is high in my opinion, yes you can get them done for 250/300 area but that's just a basic head gasket swap, if your having head work done and cam belt changed etc at same time your looking at £600 area.

 

check the head first as many get them skimmed when there is no need to
Ron

 

No one has mentioned the electric radiator fan yet. Have you checked that this is working. Just let the car tick over in your drive for 10-15 mins, when the temp gauge starts to get a bit high it should kick in. Note that it is of course at the front by the radiator, don't get confused with the engine bay fan at the rear.

If you have a method of monitoring the actual temperature, it should come on at 104 and off again at 96.

The fan relay is by the side of main underbonnet fusebox. The signal comes from the ECU. The radiator fan power side can however be tested by bridging the relay as shown below. If it doesn't come on it's the fuse or the fan motor itself. If it does come on but wont run with water temp over 104C or so, then either the relay needs replacing or you need to check the wiring back to the ECM.

 

hi there did you find the problem