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TF Backlit Dash - the easy way

14K views 54 replies 22 participants last post by  48365  
#1 ·
This arrived today, ready for some butchery in preparation for my led backlighting project.



I'm only just starting out, but i'll update as I make progress. I'll be replacing my dials in the near future with aftermarket ones with decals already cut out, so i won't be looking at customising the existing dials (ok maybe I will..).

Other folk have already tried this before with awesome results, but I wanted to work it out for myself and find an easier way for anyone to do it. I have spoken to a few people who are interested in doing this themselves, but are a little daunted. I was convinced that it wouldn't be any more complicated than the LED conversions some of us have done, and the best way to learn is to take things apart, soooo....

Basic disassembly is straight forward and obvious, so I won't describe how I stripped it down. Just take care removing the needles from the dials, also being careful not to scratch the dials if you intend on re-using them.

Here's the circuit board behind the speedo with the mileometer LCD. I got a bit sidetracked here as I have always wanted to have a blue led behind the LCD panel - our dash is blue, but the LCD display is still orange :(



I unscrewed the board and found that underneath the white plastic display holder, there is a slimwedge bulb - but it is a normal white incandescent filament bulb. So where does the orange tint come from?



Aha! What's this under the display?



Bingo! I'll be discarding this orange filter and swapping the slim wedge bulb with a blue LED version.



Anyway, I can already see a really easy way to introduce backlighting, using little more than this existing exterior lighting panel that I detached earlier.



It has another pesky orange filter which can be discarded, and you can see the strip with bulb holders hidden behind. Again these are standard filament bulbs, which I will be replacing with LED versions.



This pops out...



... and slots nicely in here.





The beauty of this is that the holder strip already connects to the rear of the cluster, so you need very little modification (a slightly enlarged hole) to feed power into the white casing to power your lights. It also means that it will be connecting into the pre-existing dimmer control - simples! I reckon I could combine the spare strip to have both backlighting and front lighting if required.

It also provides a perfect platform to position and solder further LEDs behind the other dials - a bit of trial and error will be involved there, but so far it's looking like it'll be a good 'un and easy enough even for an eejit like me :)

More soon when I get the soldering iron out...
 
#2 · (Edited)
good luck on this but you will find that the 2 bulbs dont shed light all the way round the clock face and also the fuel and temp will not be iluminated

if you look where the bulbs are there is the windings for the 2 clocks and that will throw a shadow also the brightness of the 2 bulbs will be to low
but if your looking for whight back ground then you might get away with it

are you going to try to iluminate the pointers

as for the dispay you will need a wide beam led as you have removed the defuser or if you fit a blue difuser then that will work also if using a led then min iluminace will be 15lumens as a standard led will leave a round beam in the middle then fade to the outside

as said good luck as i started here and spent close on 20hrs before swaping tackt :broon:

mark
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and the blue lcd

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=407302

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#14 ·
Not much tinkering going on - weathers been too nice :)

Mark, I have a selection of angles and led types to try including SMDs so I'm not sure what I'll settle on yet - I won't know for sure what gives the best effect until the dials arrive. I've also sourced needles - not sure whether to go for red or blue (blue would look awesome :D)

Image
 
#21 · (Edited)
I described this as the easy way, and blimmin' eck it's a piece of **** so far :)

Of course it helps to cut out some of the donkey work. Inspired by Tracy aka Pendle Lass on our first run out with the Border Patrol (all her fault) , I ordered a set of dials customised to my specification, which finally arrived today. They are a replica of the LE500 style with some personal touches, and are pre-cut and blue-filtered, ready for the backlighting.

Here's what they'll look like in normal conditions - white indicators and graphics.



And the pics below sort of show the night-time effect. The blue is a bit washed out in the photos - in reality it is a darker electric blue.









Out to the workshop then to start fettling and figuring out how to backlight them all. My original plan was to use the existing lighting bar, as outlined above. Instead I realised I could use the rear connector and wiring to divert the power to the interior instead. I unsoldered the wires from the lighting bar and routed them through a drilled hole.







Simples, and still connected to the normal lighting circuit and dimmer - schweet! It then took about ten minutes to solder together some led/resistor combos and place them strategically around the interior of the casing.











The above is a bit untidy as I was using test leads to temporarily clip everything into place so i could experiment with positioning, but it's now going to take me next to no time to solder everything in permanently and tidy it up - there's ample space to mount the leds and route wires, and I'll get more pics as I do that.

I have also sourced a variety of clear needles to have a go at illuminating, so I'll going to have a go with those in the near future and report back. Check back soon...
 
#26 ·
This dash is broken - there are damaged parts not visible in the pictures, e.g. smashed front glass panel. I'm working with this in mind though, and plan to be as un-intrusive as possible when it comes to modding the original.

Sadly I don't have pics of the needles, but I think I'm most likely to go with the ones I've linked to below - they are clear with a red painted underside, and conduct the overspill light from leds extremely well.

http://www.xtuners.com/catalog/product_info.php/gauge-glow-needles-gauge-needles-p-485
 
#34 · (Edited)
i see you copied where to put the LEDS lol and cheated in buying new dials
i thought you where doing the easy way

not as simple as you thought ????

good luck
Huh?

It doesn't get any easier than having someone else professionally produce the dials for you. Easiest way possible, and no need for a bodge job with a Dremel. I've no idea whwere you put your leds, but you know there's some pretty obvious spaces - it's not rocket science :)

It's gonna look AWESOME! :D
 
#37 ·
here you go on where i put the leds
Image


also used strip board so i could mount the leds any where i wanted to

as for bodjing with a drimmel it depends on how good you are also i have a vertical miller so i could make my own dials if needed
my how to was just to show what could be done for about ÂŁ60 in parts
not buying ÂŁ80 dials and then paying for leds ect
at least i can say i did it first back in feb march lol

so its definatly not the easy way as the title states
should of done a paintent lol

but each to there own

off now ta ta
 
#38 ·
at least i can say i did it first back in feb march lol

so its definatly not the easy way as the title states
should of done a paintent lol
Mark I really don't understand your attitude on this thread.. everyone else is happy to share their efforts for the good of the community, but if being 'first' and having 'patents' is the way you want to go with your projects, good luck with that.

Thanks for your support.
 
#43 ·
The bits are all still sitting laid out in the garage! Funnily enough, I had a brief play around with the lighting this afternoon while I was tidying the garage. The main thing putting me off installing them are the horror stories I've read about needle alignment after fitting, so I was only going to get round to it when we have no adventures planned. Sods law, the last years has been full of adventures, and this year is panning out the same.

If we weren't riding out tomorrow with MGFreedom to North Berwick, I might have been inspired to have a tinker.
 
#44 ·
Not withstanding my issues with accuracy, which I believe is down to the different (backlit) needles, getting them back in the same place is not too big an issue. Just remember that when you do the speedo make sure ignition is on and then just put it on nice and carefully against the stop. Worked for me. Use a satnav or speedo app to gauge the accuracy. For the temp and rpm just get the car to normal running temp and put them back where they would normally be and for fuel, just fill up (deep intake of breath) and put on at full.
 
#48 ·