Broken wires near the fuel injection pump?

 

if there are, they're inside the main loom as theres nothing noticeably broken

andy

 

"Fuelling level being cut" - that's a bit of an ambiguous statement - could you tell us what exactly happens?


Any warning lights coming on?

 

after 11 seconds on the accelerator the check engine lgith comes on and the level of fueling drops basically. As the fueling drops i get a drop in boost and boost goes up albeit very slowly so its not losing boost thats the problem as it does gain boost.

had it up to rover paid £65 for diagnostics to be told it was my maf sensor, I've tried 3 Maf's in my car including phils(ultimateracer) and to no avail.

 

Thanks for that.


I would now check the boost pressure sensor, the wiring connector points upwards and collects water (Great design there guys...) and corrodes like a rusty nail.

The resulting corrosion causes a loss of signal to the ECU and hence loss of performance.

Pull the plug off and tell me what you see..

 

forgive me but where is this??? i understood the MAP sensor does this job, and i have changed this too for a known good one to no avail.

andy

 

It's on the bulkhead, a small 50mm spuare black box with a pressure sensing pipe going to it.

Follow the pipe from the turbo to find it.

 

sounds like that was known to me asn the MAP sensor...its been changed

 

Oh ****, I got mixed up with the MAF sensor!


Checked the wiring connections to it?

 

no but that i shall do now

 

Look into the connector for signs of green stuff on the metal connectors themselves....

 

nope perfectly clean next idea??

andy

 

Hi andy, is there no diesel specialists around your way that could shed some light on the matter? A long shot, but may be able to help?

Regards

Stu C

 

There is a place that does diesel stuff in rotherham, but I can't for the life of me remember what it is called. (near masbrough spares). The old chap there seemed to be very helpful, but I guess if it is an electrical problem then they might not be much use.

Have you measured the boost pressure with an accurate gauge, as if the ECU sees an overboost situation it will go and sulk.

 

nope perfectly clean next idea??

andy

Some idea of what fault codes are stored might help. The check engine light (yellow) coming on proves there is a fault that the ECU has logged.

 

I'm not surprised the MAF sensor didn't fix it - it only controls the EGR valve - even if unplugged - it doesnt turn on the MIL. Doesn't even turn it on in both my 45s and can actually improve low down power at the expense of on boost power.

The only thing which turned the mil on on my 45 was the throttle position sensor, although I can't see it being the TPS, but:-

Do you have to use full throttle before it cuts the fuel, or will it do it on say 80% throttle?

By the way, has it been chipped?

Otherwise, its probably a faulty fuel servo position sensor in the pump.
(indicates to the ecu the fuel quantity injected by measuring the position of the actuator which controls the stroke of the high pressure pistons) though the Rover diagnostics should have picked this up (possibly).

Before you change the pump, check the condition of the contacts in the crankshaft position sensor and its plug.

Have you checked ALL the engine management connectors - incl the one on the pump, and from no1 injector?

 

The check engine light comes on...but its red this tell you anything?

any amount of throttle causes the problem, it also does it when i hit the rev limiter as a i found out today.

no its not ben chipped

The car has had prvios fault with no1 injector timing according to the fault code but it is recorded as a previous fault not a current one. I've chacke the connections but im not really an electrician, all appear t be ok but i could be wrong.

will take a look at the crankshaft sensor whe i can find out where it is.

ty all

andy

 

The check engine light comes on...but its red this tell you anything?

any amount of throttle causes the problem, it also does it when i hit the rev limiter as a i found out today.

no its not ben chipped

The car has had prvios fault with no1 injector timing according to the fault code but it is recorded as a previous fault not a current one. I've chacke the connections but im not really an electrician, all appear t be ok but i could be wrong.

will take a look at the crankshaft sensor whe i can find out where it is.

ty all

andy

The crankshaft sensor is to the rear of the flywheel - it senses holes in it.

Is the fault rpm related?
IE if you floor the throttle at 1500-1800rpm in 5th on a hill (to stop the revs rising quickly) does it still cut the fuel?
(This would also eliminate the map sensor as not much boost is would be produced at those revs)

Try unplugging the no1 injector cable and see whether its better or worse.

 

as said its not rpm related as it does it when im not on boost

no1 injector being closest to the fly??

andy

 

The check engine light comes on...but its red this tell you anything?

Yep.... This tells me you should take the bulb out!

Thats the quickest way to fix this problem me old mate

Y

 

Think you've got the same problem I had with my old 220sdi.
Accelerating hard in 3rd+ it would stop accelerating at about 3k revs for a few seconds, and then carry on again, only slightly slower.
Havent got an answer for you, but I took it to the garage plenty of times, and no-one knew what the issue was. Although it did only start when I changed into 3rd accidently going quite quick, and the revs went to about 7k very briefly. Perhaps that broke it. I know the rev limited never worked again.

 

not the same problem at all but yeah think your theory on why yours broke is probably not far off tbh

 

right cant find asingle problem with the wiring, no spare connectors, had each connector i could find off, cleaned up and put back....no joy..

fuel pump???

andy

 

The check engine light comes on...but its red this tell you anything?

Well thats weird, the engine check light on those should be yellow!

 

fuel pump??? :
andy

There's only the pump or ecu left!

Is there a tcking/buzzing noise coming from the pump when you turn on the ignition? (Advance solenoid on the underside) There should be.

I'd try a pump from a breakers first. Its unlikely it would show the same rare fault even if it was not perfect.

If you changed the ecu you have to have it coded to the alarm unless you changed them as a pair from the same vehicle, then the remote might need recoded as well (Major?)