Wire brush and Dettol!

Rust can look really bad and still be superficial.
Only real way to fix it is to remove the subframe and get it stripped/repainted.

Mine is also 'very very rusty' but the MOT man has seen it all before. He checked the solidity where it matters (mounts, supports etc.)

 

Wire brush and Dettol!

Rust can look really bad and still be superficial.
Only real way to fix it is to remove the subframe and get it stripped/repainted.

Mine is also 'very very rusty' but the MOT man has seen it all before. He checked the solidity where it matters (mounts, supports etc.)

I do wonder about advisories. I get different ones every year. Last one was an oil leak from the engine. WTF?

 

Thanks. Doesn't sound as bad as I feared!

 

Advisorys are usually items that are either borderline pass/fail or things that the tester has seen and has made a note of to cover his/her behind. I would have thought with the age of even the newest TF's that the sub frames would be showing signs of corrosion unless parked indoors and used in the summer only

 

I had an advisory of a rusty subframe last December but have only just had a look :0) Mine is a 2005 135 and there is indeed plenty of rust at the rear. It's not perforated anywhere though, but it looks like a hell of a job. No way am I taking the car apart to get proper access so I can't do an A1 job but I have spent two hours today chipping, power wire-brushing, flap sanding and whatnot under the rear of the car.

I reckon another two hours next weekend will see all rust that can humanly be reached reduced to powder or flakes. Then I am planning to treat it with the POR15 process - Marine Clean to degrease, then Metal Ready to reduce the remaining rust to phosphate, then finally the POR15 iself. Very expensive stuff...but allegedly bonds very well to rust and cures in the presence of water. Anyone who has used expanding polyurethane foam or glue will know just how hard this stuff clings to you...

My worry though is the stuff I can't get to - mainly the topsides of structural members etc.

Does anyone have any tips for something that can be painted or sprayed on to the tops of the subframe (without visuals) or that penetrates into gaps and joints, that doesn't require much in the way of care to apply and keeps the rust away? Waxoyl is the obvious one I suppose.

 

I have a similar problem,with a car that has been stood for best part of a year,prior to me buying it,and the rear frame in particular,is very rusty.I have thought a little about it,and do not want to be taking subframes off,so have contacted a company rustbuster (www.rustbuster.co.uk),as they do a lot of work with classics etc,to ask their advice.They do a 'rust converter/rustproofing service for around £300.The advice they gave me was to use a 'rust converter-FE 123,sprayed via compressor,on all exposed/hidden areas.Once converted,to use a thin dinitrol wax based treatment,that is thin enough to run and creep.This has to be thorough,but the intial converting process,is what sets the whole process up,and has to be done very thoroughly.The downside,and there always is,is the cost,the details on the site,will give you costings,but its around £160-£200 in materials alone.Bearing this in mind,their rusproofing service,looks a good deal,but is a 2 day process,leaving the car at their premises.Is worth a look at their site.

 

My F had failed an mot on rusty subframe and actually had a couple of substantial holes in it so I replaced it but completely rust proofed by sanding it back treating it then 3 coats of hammerite and then a layer of stone chip.

 

Rob, interesting, thanks for that. It turns out that FE-123 is a zinc phosphate converter/etcher and so is Metal Ready. So, I may just try and spray/swab Metal Ready on every surface. I'll still have to find Dinitrol type fluid wax though - and probably an applicator with a long neck. OK not as good as the professionals but better than nothing. Maybe I can get some access from above.

I may have the sub-frame and whatnot steam-cleaned first as cleaning all the dirt and grease off will be difficult by hand.

 

They sell the dinitrol fluid on their site.Its not a bad price for 5lts,if i remember.there is two dinitrol products,one is thinner than the other,and flows/creeps more readily,and what they recommended to use.The converter is the pricier bit,and they thought around 2 litres per frame.Can't remmember prices,but its on the site.

 

I've just applied the Rustbuster stuff to the front of my TF as part of my rust free quest, including a galv subframe. I painted the new hubs and bits with the stuff.

Let's hope it's better than Hammerite.

 

Haha! That puts my efforts in the shade ;0)
I wish I had the time for a sub-frame corrosion treatment like that but I think it'll just be best efforts. Preparation is everything though so I will be thorough. Phosphating and POR15 where I can reach and hopefully spraying phosphate and Waxoyl/dinitrol where I can't and hoping they cover reasonably well.

I agree about the Hammerite comment - I have used Hammerite before on metal and haven't found it particularly good at staving off rust. After a while it splits and flakes and then actually makes things worse by trapping water.

 

The problem I find with rust converter treatments is that if you don't have access to brush the liquid into the surface layer of the rusty part, it tends to either just sit there, or bead and roll off - particualarly if it's dusty. Not sure if there's an easy solution to that where access is impossible.

 

Thing is it all depends on how much your prepared to do your self.
If you want a garage to remove and refurb your sub frames thats going to be Big bucks.

 

I have a powdercoated MGF rear subframe going spare if anyone is interested.

Lancsman

 

my attempt at rust treatment was shot blast subframe back to bare metal apply por 14 for the hard to reach areas and all the pitted areas , covered in zinc 42 then primered 3 coats and then 3 coats of red with 2 coats laquer on top , also did a few of the ancillery parts

i also did the engine bay and brake pipes all rust cleaned up and treated then sprayed up right to the middle underneath pipe cover , a lot of new parts , including clutch , gearbox rebuild , hg , belts , water pump, lotus front to rear clutch pipe, slave cylinder, nippled gear arm , 2 new handbrake cables 2 new top rear ball joints 2 new rear bottom arms and a few others ...total cost about £800 so will last another few years

and a year on it still looks this clean
if you do it yourself shot blast frame cost around £40
rust treatment £15 but plenty left for other areas , paint about £40.......time ...loads

Paul D

 

my attempt at rust treatment was shot blast subframe back to bare metal apply por 14 for the hard to reach areas and all the pitted areas , covered in zinc 42 then primered 3 coats and then 3 coats of red with 2 coats laquer on top

Paul D

Paul - Just a LITTLE too much power for the small skateboard don't you think?

 

Im no fan of powder coat... Just because water can creep underneath it if damaged...

I prefer to blast.. zinc prime.. stone chip, prime then paint..

Clives galv subframe is a great idea..

Whatever finish you use... the important bit is get them blasted and rust free at the start..

Mine

 

How not to do it...

This subframe was blasted with the mounts still attached.. once the mounts are removed you see the rust.. A bodge job that will result in this type of job going rusty in no time..

All because the company stripping them prior to blasting couldnt be bothered to take the mounts off.. (10 min job?)

Yeeeee... Harrr..

 

Wish I'd never reopened this thread now, my efforts look amateur by comparison...;0)

In reply to the comment about rust treatment beading up and not wetting inside cavities, I have a bottle brush on a long piece of wire that I hope to jab inside the subframe to spread it out and wet the inside with it. It may require some soapy water first. There is a piece of duct tape over a slot in each arm of the subframe that when removed, gives decent access for such a tool. I may even try and wire a stainless scouring pad to a stiff wire to do the same job if I don't think that's effective.

I also have a Dremel Multi-tool with flexible extension that I hope to get into some hard-to-reach areas with a wire brush attached

Anyway, the die is cast now - I have ordered Dinitrol ML Cavity Wax aerosol from Frost Automotive with a 2 foot/60cm tube extension with circular sprayer on the end - so I can at least coat the inside of the subframes uniformly with wax:

http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-ml-cavity-wax-500ml.html
http://www.frost.co.uk/extension-hose-60cm.html

I may take some pictures to show the sort of things to expect.

 

I'm glad you re opened the thread! I love seeing te inspiring work others do. I just wish I could do it as quickly!
I am 6 moths+ into a TF subframe swap for my MGF. I have a rear frame blasted, POR15, primed, chaissis paint x2 coats, loads of new bolts, etc. Just waiting for a good time to do it. Got to start on the front sub frame yet.

Only thing is I paint my frame black the fashion would appear to be red!!!

 

Only thing is I paint my frame black the fashion would appear to be red!!!

Ive just finished 1x rear subframe.. seam welded.. painted black.. and one front one, seam welded.. painted white

Going on 2 different cars..

Gotta do a pair of Orange ones in the spring fro Bri

 

I just so wish my Fab MGF was my 2nd car, but unfortunately not ! Its my daily driver.
I managed to have a look at my subframes when up on hoists a couple of weeks ago during a service. Back is not too bad, due to being kept dry with engine heat. But front, although, not too bad, will need a seeing to very soon ! Front wishbones could do with treating aswell.
I could do with having car off the road for a week or two for treatment, but will only be able to do things over weekends once weather gets better !
Its a B*gg*er owning a future classic !! I feel for MGB owners !! LOL !
So its wire brush, rust treatment & then hamorite paint. Like someone said, I wont do powder coating, as I sure it will break down & rust will get in again !!

 

By the way, forgot to mention ......
The rest of my Fab MGF-Miguel is just so perfect. All works OK !
Its just scary !!!
I prey to the MG god every night !! Ha Ha !