you need to get the codes read first

 

I´ll try to get them asap.. Waiting for a phone call..

 

If you have a look through my threads there is one from last year about my 45 loosing power in a simular way might be worth a look.

 

You need to find out if your loosing boost also, the other thing to consider is the TPS wiring fault. Do a search on here for TPS faults

 

Unfortunately, can´t get my codes read for now.. The person who has the code reader told me it was for warranty

A friend borrow me a Galletto cable and i´m trying to figuring out if it can read the codes (or only programming) and how.. It doesn´t came with any software

Magicalwill1: Thanks, i´ll have a look on that

 

galletto will not do anything for your car I'm afraid.

 

It seems so.. Can´t find a software to comunicate with the car..

I think i need a EML327 right? I heard some different opinions. Some say EML327 can only read the sensors info but not errors on Diesels, others say it can read the errors..

 

It depends, the elm327 uses a protocol which was only made mandatory on diesels around 2004 - earlier rover diesels had it semi-implemented allowing main sensors to be read, but requests for error codes etc go ignored, later diesels support the full lot.

Worth mentioning that neither support manufacturer level diagnostics through the elm chipset. But definitely hand to have.

If you have a facelift 25 you might still have a chance of getting the codes with an elm.

 

Mine is 2001 model, so i think i´m out of luck

I can read the sensors values with the Scangauge but not the fault codes.. So it seems the ELM327 it´s useless in my case.

I know a person who has a code reader that works on my car, but it seems the reader has broken and it´s on the warranty. But it wasn´t an cheap reader. I think it cost about 200€.

 

unfortuantely it doesn't bode well - the scangauge will use the same protocol as the elm (in fact it might even have an elm327 or equivelent alternative chip inside it) so that does tell us something and it's not fab news.

could do with the codes, with you saying the problem causes you to really slow down at 4000 really does suggest that the ecu is seeing something it's not too happy with

 

Next Monday, i´ll try with another code reader to see if its able to read..

This seems a random problem. Even today, i drove the car and it was fine..

 

Drive with the MAF un plugged for a while, this is the most common cause of what you seem to be experiencing, even if you have tried another unit I would still try this. I have the same problem after driving through floods in Portsmouth area and I am driving with the MAF unplugged for now.

To read and clear codes, only a handful of readers work on Mk 1 cars. SP ACR 4 is one of them, Snapon also have a tool that works and there's the Rover T4. MAF problems often generate no fault codes, unplugging the MAF usually generates 2, relating to air intake temperature and air flow calibration.

 

Today i´ve take a look and i found a broken wire. One of the two that goes from the injector to the fuel pump.. I´ve tried to solder it but it was a lot of difficult because the wire was broken near the plug.. I have to search for a new plug.. Anyone knows the correct name of that plug and where i can get one? Its the pump side plug.

However, i think one of the symptons i forgot to mention, disappear. On the Scangauge, the IGN value was skipping a lot (mainly on cold), like 0,-50,-60. Now it´s stable at 0.

But the car still don´t have the power it should have and it still cuts off at about 3800/3900RPM.

I´ve tried to disconnect the MAF and on the 1200/1700RPM range seems a little better, it´s a little quicker, but above that it´s the same. I can´t feel the full kick at 2000RPM and it still don´t pass the 3800/3900RPM.

TPS on Scangauge reads 98 when full acceleration.

 

With the help of the Scangauge, i could read MAF Values..

At idle, about 18.5/19, at 2000RPM, 50 (with car in neutral)

 

It definitely sounds like the broken wire is the issue - you'll need the plug from another injector (I'm sure someone will have an old one they can snip the wire from and post you for a few beer tokens).

This wire not working will limit the engine as you've seen. Your MAF probably isn't the issue, and running with it unplugged will also limit the engine to 4000RPM.

 

In this case, i suspect i need the plug not from the injector, but the side that goes to the pump.. At least was on that side i saw the broken wire.. And i suspect the wire can be broken on somewhere else or even the other wire..

The one i´ve soldered was the brown one. I didn´t touch the black one..

You´re right.. It was real good if someone had those plug´s (one or both) and post me At least i could eliminate that question.

The last option would be cutting the wires and solder them directly without the plugs..

 

Cut and solder would work fine - it'll be easier than finding the brown wire.
I've done it in the past with all sorts on our cars, and not had an issue.

 

Well, today i was measuring with a multimeter and..

On the injector plug, it has a resistance (don´t remember the scale but i think it was 100 ohms). On the plug that goes to the pump (or ecu, don´t have sure), it has no continuity at all.. It shouldn´t have some continuity/resistance between both wires or it´s normal?

 

It seems it´s the injector 1 wire indeed.

Today i turn to look at the wires and its broken again.

Resolder it again and the car is fine. However, don´t know for how long.

I have to find a good condition plug to cut and solder it as it should be.

Now, the IGN values are around 0 but they change slightly. Like 0, 2, 4, etc.