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ROver 25 CVT

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6.7K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  nebburns  
#1 ·
Hi Folks,

I'm after some advice about the dreaded CVT in a Rover 25 I have just acquired.

The car in question is a very low mileage (50k) 2000 1.8 Rover 25. Bought from an old guy, you can tell the car has had an easy life.

Anyway - I've been having issues with the CVT box the issue only exists after driving for 10-15 minutes. Approaching a junction, the box will shift up to first gear causing a massive shunt, not good. After driving it for around 15minutes, the transmission appears to be stuck on the same ratio - it will not allow me to set off in 'first' instead it only revs out to around 2500rpm with very slow acceleration.

After reading a few posts on the internet - I have removed all the sensor connectors, sprayed WD40 and ensured they are clean and have a good connection.

I have also now gone to the trouble of replacing the trans fluid with the correct type (bought from a BMW garage, EZL799)

This had made no difference at all - still shows this issue of not being able to change ratios.

Im at my wits end with the car and I'm pretty sure that a new gearbox is called for. Can anyone offer any advice?

In the meantime, I will keep my opinions to myself about CVT transmissions!!!

Thanks

Ben.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thanks for your replies



This hasnt been disturbed however, do CVT's in Rovers have kickdown? I'm not sure they do?? Why would this issue only show when the car is hot and not cold?



Is the gear selector display showing the EP (Emergency Programme) when it exhibits this fault?

CVT is not a DIY job, it could well end up costing more than the car is worth :(

Fitting a used box will be a complete and utter lottery.
I agree, fitting a another second hand transmission or a refurbed unit is not really something I want to do due to the cost and reliabilty of these units

There are no faults dispayed on the dash, the dash displays all the correct mesaages ( P, R, N, D, sport, 1,2,3 etc etc)
However, since posting my original post - when the issue of restricted performance is happening, I managed to get the amber cog with an exclamation mark show up for a brief second.

When driving a car with a CVT, you never hear or feel the transmission shift -- it simply raises and lowers the engine speed as needed, calling up higher engine speeds (or RPMs) for better acceleration and lower RPMs for better fuel economy while cruising. Many people find the CVT disconcerting at first because of the way cars with CVTs sound when driving. Mine hardly ever goes above 2500 rpm in normal driving unless it's in sports mode.
There is definetly an issue with the box, when the car is cold it drives, revs - changes ratio's as it should do with the typical odd harsh change when slowing. But only after 15minutes or so does the restricted RPM happen. No other warning messages (apart from the once as mentioned above).

As an educated guess - I'd say there is a lack of hydraulic pressure to enable the box to alter the ratios.
It is like trying to pull away in a high gear and you can hear / feel the belt slipping as a result of the engine speed.
This is why I changed the fluid thinking that old fluid has lower viscousity at higher temps than what it should be (plus it was a little on the dark side)

Given the cost of parts for these cars in scrapyards - I'm tempted to convert the thing to manual transmission - I already have the pedal box and centre console from my old 200, it would be a real shame to scrap the car given how good everything else is on the car.

I just cant believe how poor these transmissions are from such a renowned company like ZF!

Ben.
 
#4 ·
Is the gear selector display showing the EP (Emergency Programme) when it exhibits this fault?

CVT is not a DIY job, it could well end up costing more than the car is worth :(

Fitting a used box will be a complete and utter lottery.
 
#5 ·
cvt

When driving a car with a CVT, you never hear or feel the transmission shift -- it simply raises and lowers the engine speed as needed, calling up higher engine speeds (or RPMs) for better acceleration and lower RPMs for better fuel economy while cruising. Many people find the CVT disconcerting at first because of the way cars with CVTs sound when driving. Mine hardly ever goes above 2500 rpm in normal driving unless it's in sports mode.
 
#8 ·
its been a while since i changed my sons CVT and i am 99.9% sure there is a kickdown cable on the throttle assy. If this is not set correctly the box can behave strange. Maybe the cold start choke is compensating in some way and when the engine is warmed up with a weaker mix the problem becomes apparent. The CVT does make a sound like the belt is slipping even when working correctly. On kickdown it will rev to 4.5 - 5k rpm and the car will continue to accelerate as the engine revs decline. I know that sounds wierd, but its how this box works. Eliminate the kickdown first would be my fault finding process as its the only external adjustment, then move on from there.
Good luck.
Nigel
 
#10 ·
I own A CVT and i get the jolting occasionaly when its hot, I have found it seems to be with the tickover speed, if i turn the engine off, then turn ignition to position 2 pump the throttle 5 or 6 times it resets the speed of idling, then turn the ignition off and when you start the engine its all smooth again, as far as kickdown goes yes they do have kickdown, in normal drive mode you stamp your foot and it will rev to and accelerate at around 4k revs, in sport mode, pull the stick towards you in drive it will rev and accelerate to about 6k revs also in sport mode you can manually select gears by pushing the stick up for up or down for down, other than that you seem to have the basics of the CVT right oil etc blah blah blah
one other thing to watch out for is a rattly driveplate in the gearbox mine rattles and sounds a lot like an exhaust rattle when its in park or neutral, I am currently ignoring it as the car is still driving fine :)
 
#13 ·
Hi folks,

Not much of an update but just to say that I refered to my RAVE CD wrt to the kickdown setting - the kick down cable adjustment must refer to the Rover 200 and not the 25 - the throttle cable and cam arrangement is identical to my other manual rovers.

I decided to see if disconecting a vary or sensors, purley out of desperation, to see if these signals are inputs to the TCM (TPS, and coolant sensor and cam phase sensor) unfortuently the symptons were no different other than a higher idle speed and no coolant temp indication. The car drove perfect for 15 minutes, but then had the same symptons of being stuck in the same ratio. Even after keying on and off, reconnecting everything, doing the TPS relearn process - even having another go at the fast adaption process (again out of desperation) there was no difference.

After some direction from another forum member (thanks...you know who you are!!) I will change the internal filter. Is this a Rover supplied part or can I get this from a motorfactors?

Also, can anyone advise if the EU3 cars have a seperate trans control module or is this part of the ECM?

Thanks for all your input so far

Ben.
 
#15 ·
Hi mate, thanks for your help....i'm holding off calling these guys just yet as I have some other things to try on the transmission this weekend.

Can anyone advise if changing the trans control module can be from another Rover, i.e 25, 45? I understand that Rover changed the part numbers later-on - would this pose an issue?

Thanks

Ben.