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Repairing the central locking mechanism how to

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f/tf how to how to
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59K views 88 replies 43 participants last post by  JRPilot  
C
#1 ·
Some of you may remember at the begining of the year I changed the passenger side door locking mechanism as it was doing the grindy, whirry thing.

I did an autopsy on it and found that a small plastic shaft had snapped off from the main housing, allowing a pawl to float free and not engage properly.

Image


I had threatened at the time to repair it, but never really got around to it.

Well, I did an autopsy on the drivers side when I removed it yesterday and found exactly the same fault. While I was in the mood I decided to fix this one (will fix the passenger one at a later date).

The plan was to fit a new shaft to replace the snapped one. Obviously gluing the old one back in place would not last 2 minutes. I toyed with the idea of drilling though the case and fitting a rivet of the correct size, but this had its problems (could damage the plastic, would expand when rivetted in place and be too wide for the pawl). So I decided to narrow the plain shank of a screw and cut to size (8mm in length - 5mm of old shaft + 3mm depth of case). To give extra support and strength I welded a square of metal to one end.

I then drilled out the location of where the shaft used to be

Image


I then pushed the new shaft though the casing and Araldited it to the outside of the case.

Image


With the new shaft in place

Image


I could refit the pawl

Image


Reassemble the mechanism and mechanically test the levers.

Image


All seems OK, but I will have to wait until I need a lock change again to try it out fully.

This may not be the same as all failures experienced by F/TF owners, but I have had 2 now and both have been the same. As you can see, a little hobbying and you can save yourself around £40 on ebay.
 
C
#6 ·
adamelphick said:
Excellent! I have to check Megs drivers side again - makes a funny noise when double locked once more! I had it apart a year ago, greased it and stuff and it was ok, maybe something else has happened now!
Click to expand...
If you take it apart, check that pawl. It looks OK but it is only when you "wiggle" it that you realise that it is loose and the shaft has come adrift. As I said, this may not be the same as everybodies problem, I think some people have reported stripped cogs. It is worth a check though.
 
P
#8 ·
This is a common fault on the deadlocking door locks, probably the only fault on them. Like you say, catch it early and deal with it and you won't get stuck.
Over on the 25/ZR forum, lots of locks have failed. I've rrepaired quite a few but not quite the same way as you did. What worries me about yours is you used araldite glue, I can't see that lasting very long, not on a hot summers day anyway.
I used a round long headed bolt, M3 if I'm not mistaken, I had to drill the plastic lever slightly so the head bolt would fit, drilled the plastic casing and held the bolt in place with a locking nut on the outside of the case, loctited as well just in case.
 
C
#9 ·
You could be right, but the glue doesn't do anything structural, it just stops the pin sliding out. Time will tell. I did consider a bolt or screw but was worried about cracking the casing and having the pawl sitting on a threaded portion. But then again, yours is probably tested. Mine isn't.
 
S
#15 ·
Oky doky guys! I will get replacements (that hopefully haven't broken as well!!!!) and use CJJs fix on my current locks in case the new ones break in the future!

Craigie- I just had a search on eBay and could only find one for a rear door! :confused:


Sorry about this lol, but two more questions:

1. It only seems to be the drivers side at fault, but should I still replace both doors? (3dr car)

2. Do the boot locks break too?
 
J
#38 ·
No worries, the only difference between MK II and MK I is that the socket on the MK II is in a flying lead rather than part of the lock - other than that the are functionally equivalent as far as I can tell. I fitted a MK II lock on my MK I (was sent it by mistake) and it works with no problems. Just make sure the flying lead does not get in the way of the window mechanism.
 
A
#45 ·
Thanks muchly!

well, I've had the grindy door lock for aaages now and it's one of those jobs I've been meaning to get done... (We all have a bunch of them eh?)

Anyway, followed the guide to remove the lock, opened it up and lo and behold, the little plastic pin was broken.

Drilled out the hole, hacksawed a bolt down to the right length, held it place with superglue and duct tape and re-fitted - all works a treat and I'm one happy chappy.

Thanks for the help!
 
C
#46 ·
Arranyn said:
well, I've had the grindy door lock for aaages now and it's one of those jobs I've been meaning to get done... (We all have a bunch of them eh?)

Anyway, followed the guide to remove the lock, opened it up and lo and behold, the little plastic pin was broken.

Drilled out the hole, hacksawed a bolt down to the right length, held it place with superglue and duct tape and re-fitted - all works a treat and I'm one happy chappy.

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
Excellent. I still haven't tried my repaired one as the replacement is still going strong. A free fix is good though isn't it. :)
 
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