http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=278690

Looks like a lot of brute force is required, unfortuantely :lol: Give the bushes a good dose of penetrating oil before hand, and hope for the best. Leave the new bushes in the freezer the night before fitting them, and that should shrink them a little.

 

i mark a line through the bush centre line and the front track adjustment bolt, then i remove the tracking bolt, pull the arm down with my left hand and beat seven shades of **** out of the bush until it pops out, to fit the new bush line up the bush mounting holes/centre line with the mark you made then beat it back in with attention being paid to hit the outside of bush evenly, once its in to the correct depth refit the front part of the arm and align the trackning bolt with the mark you made, useally takes 15 mins on a ramp

 

I discovered hitting it from the inside out rather than outside in made it alot easier. Also use the old metal bush surround lined up with the new one to knock the new bush in. Saves buggering up the new bush.

 

Yes ^ that is the correct way to do the job.

As bellys said, it's 30 mins a side max.

You'll need a decent hammer and a good aim!!

 

I've just spent a few hours under-sealing the 45. It looks like my late 2001 45 came with no under-seal from the factory. Anyway , whilst I was slapping on the Tetroseal , I noticed that the rear bushes were showing some signs of deterioration.

I gather all that is required to change the bush is the removal of the two 15mm bolts securing the bush and the handbrake bracket? Can the arm be pulled down by hand? and then wedged with a suitable piece of wood.

I'm not exactly sure what to mark before removing the old bush.

 

You'll need to remove the tie link bolt - the outermost one - that way you won't upset the alignment.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. So the upper and lower rear links don't need touching?

I think I understand now.

 

So it's only the 3 bolts circled that need removing? Or have I miss read something? It seems there are many different ways of doing it.

 

Bushes



Am new to 45 ownership and my bushes are showing signs needing replacement is the picture correct, I have read the other thread linked to above and am not sure that the bushes are a cheap home job due to alignment issues.

So I suppose what I am really asking is do I just undo the three bolts shown above beat two shades of sh** out of the bushes and bolt it all back together job done.

TVM

Steve

 

Yep, thats it.

Beat the bush OUT from the centre of the car and beat the new bush IN with the taper facing IN.

 

And if like me you do not have a ramp or a pit, I guess we are going to have to jack it up and hire this person ........

 

PMSL :lol: remember watching that.

 

I'm planning on doing mine this weekend, weather and gf permitting - I'll let you all know how I get on...

 

Surely the component Nos 14 needs to be released as well as the 3 bolts mentioned,
Nos 14 to allow the Arm to swing down at the front rising at the rear? Would this be correct?? Also, can or how can this job be done on ramps, or is it strictly wheel off???

 

It's a long time since I've done any of these bushes but I'm certain #14 doesn't need to be undone.

 

Its a wheel off job, even more so with alloys as I would be afriad of missing the bush and hitting the rim. Also if you do it with axiel stands you have to watch where you put the stands of they can get in the way.

I bought a cheap tool which makes talking them out and fitting them easy.

 

I just had a go on the NS one, the result...

EPIC FAIL.

After an hour of beating the hell out of the bush, I gave up and put it all back together, will have to try again another day.

Sejin, what tool is it you have that makes this easier? I'd be very interested, do you have a link for one or anything?

 

The correct way to do it is to remove the swinging arm from the car and press it out using MGR tools 18G 1733/1 and 18G 1733/2.

However, we all know that is not always possible, but my mind boggles at the image of somebody whelting allsorts of $%^& out of the swinging arm whilst laying on their back under a car supported on axle stands.

It must be possible to do it in situ. using something like a bit of tubing, of suitable size (just smaller than the O/dia. of the bush) and a couple of bits of plate and a couple of decent size longish studs to apply the pressure.
I no longer have the facility to make anything up now, but would have made something like that.

 

45 Bushes



You are not wrong, what it needs is two bits of tube One slightly bigger than the bush and the outer of an old bush plus two bits of 1/4 plate plus two lengths of studding and nuts and some washers. Easy peasy.

Although my plan was to use an air chisel and a modified blade.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laser-4716-Bu...a-CRV-/130407527356?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e5ce4f3bc Something like that looks ideal, but not for that sort of money lol. I might take some measurements and see if I can get a mate of mine to knock me one up.

 

We used to take the arms out back in the days but I wouldn't if I was doing the job myself these days.

Big hammer and air chisel making usre you are punching the bush from the inside of the car out........

 

Thats just got me thinking I have a very large two legged bearing puller, wonder if i could modify or make an adapter for it.

 

we used to have speed comps with these at caffyns due to the immense book time they gave and charged the customers for and theres a captive bolt on the front mount the two ta bush bolts and a lil h.brake cable bolt to mark up and remove pull the arm down and wedge a bit of wood between it and the body to stop it moving then knock it from the underside out then the new one taper side in from the outside keeping it level of course then bolt it back up...easier on a two post lift and sodding hard on the ground but should take no more then 30 mins a side (with a two post lift we had them both done in abt 16mins flat and they still charged the 8hours book time to the customers for removing the whole arm and pressing them in/out)

 

8hrs book time for both bushes????

More like 3 isn't it??

 

lol well this was abt 4 yrs ago but the book time caffyns charged was abt 3-4 hrs per side it was ridiculous when the bush was only like £30 each

 

Thanks for that. I am giving it a crack during week. I have been WDing relevent parts 'n' bolts for a few days now.
Looking at the job with car on jack, once the front bolt and bush bolts are removed would it gain having a second jack raise the Arm by jacking under the shock and sort of close the shock/spring raise the hub etc. I was trying to reason if this would help lower the front end of the arm to get at the bush.
If the bush won't drift out i am working on a universal bush press arragement, which i will be testing.

 

Thanks for that. I am giving it a crack during week. I have been WDing relevent parts 'n' bolts for a few days now.
Looking at the job with car on jack, once the front bolt and bush bolts are removed would it gain having a second jack raise the Arm by jacking under the shock and sort of close the shock/spring raise the hub etc. I was trying to reason if this would help lower the front end of the arm to get at the bush.
If the bush won't drift out i am working on a universal bush press arragement, which i will be testing.

Please to take care to include a couple of axle stands for your safety.

 

Once the trailing arm has been freed, it's easy enough to lever it down with a bar and then brace it with something.

After looking at the extortionate prices for Honda trailing arm bush tools (£145 is the cheapest I've found) I think I'd be better off making my own with a 2-legged puller and a big socket or something for about £20 lol.

 

I don't think a two legged puller will work Chris.

 

Nuts! I'll either have to buy the expensive tool designed for the job, and hope to get some money back by renting it out or flogging it on, or cough up for someone to do it for me

 

Job Done

As it says Job done, What a t*** of a job, took me 2 hours to do the first one coz I couldn't get the bolt (No8) undone so had to mark and undo the tracking bolt.

Bolt No8 came undone on the second and it took 20 minutes to do.

If I had one piece of advice have plenty of various size bits of wood (at least some 4*2 and I used a bit of 3" square) and a couple of bloody great levers and the best hammer to use i found was a 2lb ball pein hammer.

Enjoying a well earned cider now!!!!

Oh and yes its made a world of difference to the car no skipping round corners and no more squirming under hard braking.