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Overheating problems, sorry 😞

3.8K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  Dougy in the shed  
#1 ·
Hi All,
I'm new to the forum and have just bought a 2001 model year mgf with 43k miles on the clock. Sorry to trouble everyone with a overheating problem but hopefully you'll be able to give me some pointers. I picked up the car Saturday and drove home 125 miles with no real issues (it was about 21 degrees and intermittent rain). At one point the gauge crept up slightly so I put the heater on for a bit and the gauge dropped to normal. Since then the weather has warmed and after about 20 minutes normal driving the coolant and oil temps go way up. Putting the heater on controls it just above half on the gauge. The car has had a uprated HG about 6 years ago but has only done about 2k since. Both fans work as does the heater and there's no coolant loss as far as I can tell. At idle with the cap off I can see the fluid return working in the expansion tank. I've opened the rad bleed and front bulkhead bleed and get fluid although the bleed screw under the distributor is seized. Does it sound like an air lock issue ? I'm planning on draining and flushing and changing the stat. Is there anything else I should do. Any advice on the best way the change the thermostat would be welcome. It looks a bit of a pain to do? Again sorry to ask another overheating question but the more I read the more confused I'm getting.
 
#6 ·
First off, you need to get the system bled properly from all THREE points.
 
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#14 ·
I managed to open the 3rd bleed screw, so I rebled the system from rad to bulkhead then engine bay. No air came out of any as far as I could tell. I did notice that it had lost a bit of fluid ( about 20mm down from the level before I went for a run yesterday). When I got back as I mentioned there was moisture around the reservoir cap. As the car was running very hot I'm assuming it escaped through the cap. I can't see any leeks or signs of leakage and the oil has no water in it. I'm going to change the timing belt, thermostat and waterpump and replace the under car coolant pipes on the weekend, so hopefully if there are any hidden leaks I should spot them. Would the coolant look oily if I had a HG failure and would there be any other signs?
 
#9 ·
Does the fan come on? If not check for a blown fuse in the fusebox, geez what was the number again. Happened to my F was fine normally but in slow traffic managed to overhead as no working rad fan. You can also confirm if the pipes into the radiator are warm / hot, if cold when the engine is getting too hot prob thermostat as above.
 
#16 ·
As I said earlier in your thread, my bet is on the thermostat. Like my 1998 MGF, your car has been little used over the last 20 years. I never thought it would have been the thermostat but then I realised that overheating (and not losing coolant), was either the radiator fan or the thermostat. The thermostat failed in the closed position hence the cause of my overheating.

Lack of use is really not good for cars (mainly on the mechanical elements).

You can check by feeling the temp of the front radiator pipe (from memory the one on the left - the other will be 'cold'). It should be hot if the thermostat is opening.
 
#23 ·
Hi Will., I think its sorted (fingers are firmly crossed). Ive just come back from a 45 minute drive and the gauge stayed just below the half way mark. When I got the old stat out it was properly gunged up with cooling system crusty's . I popped it into some kettle boiled water (Apparently Mrs D's sauce pans are not for thermostats :rolleyes:), it failed to open. after a bit of a cleaning it would just creep open about 1mm. I replaced that the same time as the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and the under car metal pipes. After getting it back together yesterday I had a massive water leak from the stat housing O rings. Although I replaced them I'd managed to roll both of them out of their grooves, that'll teach me trying to change the stat without removing the inlet manifold. So today it was off with the inlet manifold and in with some new O rings. One good thing to come out of my ineptitude was a flush of the cooling system which revealed some lovely lumps of rust and crud that came out of the old decaying metal pipes. I plan on fitting a low water level alarm next weekend so I'll drain and replace the coolant again and hopefully that'll be the end of my over heating. How are you getting on, is yours sorted?
 
#24 ·
I'm in need of further guidance I'm afraid 😞. Fitted a B & G low coolant alarm (nicely put together kit), emptied refilled and bled the coolant. I went for a 130 mile drive, mostly A and B road and the temp didn't budge off one spot below half way. The last 40 miles was motorway, after a few minutes at about 70 ish the temp went up to on spot above half. Dropped to 70 ish and it dropped back down but was erratic going up and down. When I got home the level in the res level was about an inch up. Checked this morning and the fluid was still up. Opened the cap there was a suck of air in and the level went to normal. Is this an air lock or somthing else?