Chances are the handbrake shoes probably dont really want replacing, they are only ever used to hold the car while stationary, unless you enjoy doing handbrake turns in your car.
The biggest problem with the handbrake is people adjusting it incorrectly, the handbrake tension nut under the lever gator should have no more then 25-30mm iirc of thread exposed past the nut, if it does then it has been overtightened and the cables have most likely stretched, usually this results in them needing replacing.

The handbrake shoes need adjusting on each back hub, with the wheel removed and inserting a screwdriver through the drum hole and rotating the notched screw to either loosen or tighten the shoes basically.

Brakes are pretty easy to work on as a DIY mechanic, however you need to make sure you really know what your doing as these are the things that are going to stop you.

If you are not very experienced I would start off with a Haynes manual for a starters and ideally a friend who has more experience if possible to assist you if you get stuck.

Simon

 

If you are not very experienced I would start off with a Haynes manual for a starters and ideally a friend who has more experience if possible to assist you if you get stuck.

Simon

Do you have a link to haynes book ? I couldn't find any Rover info on their website

EDIT: I think I found it http://www.amazon.fr/Petrol-Diesel-...el-Service-Repair-Manual/dp/1844252922/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299184995&sr=1-1

 

As for tools ideally you would need at least:

A decent socket set and spanner set
A brake bleeding kit
7 or 8mm allen key
Penetrating liquid (not WD40 proper pentrating fluid)
Brake cleaning spray
Cooper grease for back of pads
Trolley jack and axle stands
Oh and a hub nut socket 32mm or so iirc and a bloody good breaker bar to get it undone by hand for the rear drums to come off to access brake shoes.

Also be aware that the last 75/ZT I did the rear brakes on taking the rear drums off pulled the bearing race apart.

Simon

 

Thank you Simon for your answer, you rock as always dude

What about the handbrake tension nut under the lever gator? how can I get to it ?

 

You may find info in this thread useful... Click Me

Edd

 

Looking at Mr Edds how is a great start.

As for the handbrake cable tension adjuster it is directly underneatht eh lever, removing the gaitor should be all you need to gain access to it. But you will need a spanner and patience to wind the nut all the way back up the threaded bar if it has been badly adjusted.

Simon

 

the only thing that I have to change are brake discs and brake pads (all four wheel unfortunately) as well as the hand brake pads (i have to go all the way up and to grab a little. The bill is huge 2700€ (Midas, a French garage)

They're not called Midas for nothing then. That's an outrageous quote.

 

Hi,

Don't give your money to Midas !
Do it yourself;fairly easy ...

No more 200 £ for all parts .(no need to change handbrake shoes)

Mike

 

For €2700, I'm sure you could get a UK based mobile mechanic over, treat him to a nice meal etc and still have money left.

 

lool exactly.. Like I said, I'll do it myself next to nothing, but to be honest how can I do anything without MG-rover's help .. You guys ROCK!!

 

Simon, here's a picture of the handbrake cable tension adjuster besides a screwdriver (the grey part of the screwdriver is exactly 38mm), so i think it's tightened 32mm

What do you think? cable needs to be changed or does it need adjusting ? Should it go up (below 30mm) or down (more than 40mm)

Thank you

 

Simon, here's a picture of the handbrake cable tension adjuster besides a screwdriver (the grey part of the screwdriver is exactly 38mm), so i think it's tightened 32mm

What do you think? cable needs to be changed or does it need adjusting ? Should it go up (below 30mm) or down (more than 40mm)

Thank you

Hi that looks fine to me, i reckon there is about 25mm or so thread showing so that should be okay, if you adjust the back shoes you should be able to sort yours out without renewing the cales I would think. If you adjust the shoes and still cant get a decent handbrake then you may have to think about new cables, but if you are sure your gonna have go down that route I see no reason not to take more slack up on the nut there to prolong it before you need new cables if it works as a temp measure imho.

Simon

 

I reckon undo it (so there's less thread visible) to about 20mm, then adjust the brake shoes using the screwdriver-turnie-thingie (as mentioned in Edd's post) till it works well. Then after a bit if the shoes wear a bit or things bed in a bit it's easy to just adjust the cable a bit.

And yes, I do know I'm not Simon

 

First, I would like to say Thank you Simon, your were right, the shoes were badly adjusted so I spend around 15 minutes per wheel and the handbrake is tougher than ever, I even tried it while the car is moving the wheels were completely stuck.. Thank you..

I also took a couple of pictures of the front Disc/pads, do you think they need changing ?

I also found two unplugged cables, what are they for?

This one is just behind the wheel

and it comes from here (the cable right next to my hand

And what about this one? came within the same wrapping as the cable that goes at the bottom of the washer liquid bottle

It doesn't look like one of the lights, because everything from fog lights, right/left signal to headlights are working fine so I wonder what is it for ?

 

Its for the headlamp power wash.

 

The 2001 had an optional headlamp washer ?

 

sometimes when I brake hard, I hear a weird noise coming from the front-right side, like if there's something stuck in the wheel and is hitting something on each turn, however I couldn't find evidence of deformation on the disc nor the pads..

What about the wire that is right behind the pads ?

 

sometimes when I brake hard, I hear a weird noise coming from the front-right side, like if there's something stuck in the wheel and is hitting something on each turn, however I couldn't find evidence of deformation on the disc nor the pads..

What about the wire that is right behind the pads ?

That would be the pad wear sensor I think, drivers side wheel?

Looks like the pad wear indicator has been bodged at some point, do you ahve a low pad warning light on the dashboard?

Simon

 

Simon, The hand brake is still a bit badly adjusted, I'm going to adjust it a bit further this Saturday, how many clicks do you hear before the handbrake is tightened ? this way I can lift the handle X clicks and adjust the shoes until it's well tightened...

Thank you

 

Simon, The hand brake is still a bit badly adjusted, I'm going to adjust it a bit further this Saturday, how many clicks do you hear before the handbrake is tightened ? this way I can lift the handle X clicks and adjust the shoes until it's well tightened...

Thank you

Over here for the MOT there is no requirement for the handbrake to hold on x amount of clicks, as long as it holds within the full travel of the hnadbrake then it is working acceptably for the MOT, so In answer to your question, I have no idea how many clicks the car would have taken to hold when it was brand new.

Simon