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Mk1 or Mk2 MG ZR

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8.4K views 17 replies 16 participants last post by  tezza1985  
#1 ·
Firstly Hi, this is my first post :)

I have a question that i hope you can help me with.

I have decided that i would rather like a Zr160 and near me is both a very late 2004 mk1 and a "54" plated mk2. Both have around the same mileage and the same number of owners. But I'm undedicated as to which to go for.

I like the look of both of them so that's not going to be a deciding factor but i will be using the car everyday so i need it to be reliable.

Are their any major differences other than the exterior and interior tweeks that i should know of? Did the refresh introduce any new common faults. I know the Mk1 you need to check for working heater dials, loose rear wing and that the seats are all fully adjustable. Also on the Mk1 need to check for cooling system for any HGF. What about the MK2 did rover/mg finally get the HGF problem sorted? Any other problems i need to look out for.

Hope you can help, i will of cause be looking at the overall condition and the service histories to help me decided but any info you can pass to me would be very useful.

Many thanks

Toolkit
 
#5 ·
The Mk2 was meant to be a little better with HGF however some of the revisions just introduced new problems that still led to HGF. The Saab valve is a perfect example of this. The rubber bung inside becomes dislodged and jams up at the elbow further down preventing coolant flow. This can be found behind the engine.

Things to look out on the MK2 are checking ALL the electrics. Any faults could indicate water ingress into the BCU. If the electrics are fine then bear in mind you will probably want to take preventative measures against this fault.

Also bear in mind the bumpers and lights are fantastically expensive on MK2's so if you have a bump or fancy modding it can become costly.
 
#6 ·
Things to look out on the MK2 are checking ALL the electrics. Any faults could indicate water ingress into the BCU. If the electrics are fine then bear in mind you will probably want to take preventative measures against this fault.
This also effects late mk1 cars too (anything on a 53/04 plate) which also had the SCU unit. Any car with an oval key fob has an SCU.

Personally I would go for the mk2 as they look a lot more modern and weren't as stripped of content as the late mk1s.
 
#8 ·
I looked at both before I settled for a MK2. The dash is waaaaaay nicer, and the facelift exterior is prettier. More expensive for those parts if they need fixing though.

Cheers,

BS...
Mk2 has a better clutch pedal position and various other changes. It also has an engine coolant level sensor in the expansion bottle with a light on the dash.
The insurance is also better than all but the later Mk1 ZR's because of the better security.
Only part I have had a problem getting was an exhaust manifold heat shield. I had to get a second hand one when mine fell apart.
Still the same with the head gasket but when mine started going I caught it before the head was damaged. I now have a MLS one.
 
#13 ·
As much as the MK2 looks great.. Cosmetic repairs/spares are expensive to get and come across. So if you after a run about I would say MK1, easy to patch up as plenty 25's and mk1's in scarppy.. But if you after a long term thing then the mark 2 would be good.
 
#15 ·
Having now had 5 ZRs ,2 mk 1 and 3 mk2 i would say the mk1 is definately better ,there is no comparison in both build quality and quality of parts used .My current 160 is pre project drive and is the best of the lot.
Prior to this i had one of the last on a 06 plate ,quality of materials used and build quality was awful although very loved and cherished bits were always falling apart ,the interior although looks good is just so cheap compared to the early mk1.
I have now had 5 ZRs and am also on my 3rd TF ,no head gasket failures ,regular checks and maintenance and these cars are fine,sure i will get one now having said this!!
Go for the best maintained with a stamped up book ,they are great fun!
 
#17 · (Edited)
I would go for what ever was in the best condition and most looked after. Both are prob going have the SCU which can be a ballache if water gets in the system.
I would say that there isnt anything mechanically different between the two (with it being a late Mk1.) but Mk2 body parts are much more expensive and harder to get than Mk1 parts. Go with the one that has been looked after.


If you go for a test drive make sure you can take it right up to the redline to check the VVC mechs are working as this can be costly to put right if they are faulty.



Cheers,
Matt