you may have a very mucky fuel filter that needs cleaning. Have a look at this search result off my web site.

 

Thanks Pete, I'll give that a whirl. Are you able to tell me whether it is possible to clean the old filter or do I have to buy a new one, if so what kind of price am I looking at?

 

dunno tbh, I think Broon put a new one one, he's Scottish, so it would have been less than £10 I'm guessing

 

verkill::twak::twak2:

I believe someone else got into trouble on nother forum for making a comment like that :lol:

Yeah, around 8-10 pounds fomr a motor place (not Halfrauds). I dont think you can clean it.

As long as you know how to open your access panel it is a piece of wee.

 

You probably need to put more fuel in.

 

To be fair, I have made two trips to the petrol station so the car has had about £10 worth put in - would it make a difference to the starting of the car if the tank were fuller?

 

No.

Normally when you run out, all the crap at the botom of the fuel tank which normally doesnt get disturbed gets pumped into the fuiel filter so it probably will need changed.

I dunno why the pump isnt priming though? Fuse?

 

"I dunno why the pump isnt priming though? Fuse?" You've lost me with the priming thing! Where would I locate the fusebox? You can tell I only bought the car yesterday can't you! Thanks for all your help - much appreciated.

 

Sorry, I htink I have mixed up with another fuel type question thread :lol:

That person said the pump was not priming. BAsically when you turn to no.2 , you should hear the pump "priming"?.

Sorry, if your makes that noise, then I would go with filter first

 

I still say there is not enough fuel in it :beer:

 

Many fuel-injected cars have to have their fuel systems primed (by a garage) after running out of petrol, is this not the case for the F/TF?

 

Nope,

Just keep cranking the engine with the throttle pedal half down and it should start.

The other thought is that the car is now flooded.

May be worth disconnecting the inertia switch to disable the fuel pump., and turn the car over for a few times. If the car starts, then dies, then you can reconnect the inertia switch and she should start normally

 

Whats the inertia switch ? :dunno: :daft::lol:

 

the switch in the boot/engine bay that cuts the fuel supply when you have a crash. Push to reset.

 

Ahh, the fuel cut-off switch

 

Would £10 of fuel be enough to get fuel into both sides of the saddle tank, or might that fuel be just in the side that does not include the pump?

Nigel

 

The car now has £15 worth of petrol in it and it still wont start! I've also replaced the filter this morning (£9.28 in case anybody was wondering) and while i'm sure it has done some good it hasnt fixed the problem. Anybody care to tell me where I can find this inertia/fuel cut off switch? Im a bit thick with cars so nice and clear directions please!

 

inertia switch location

The car now has £15 worth of petrol in it and it still wont start! I've also replaced the filter this morning (£9.28 in case anybody was wondering) and while i'm sure it has done some good it hasnt fixed the problem. Anybody care to tell me where I can find this inertia/fuel cut off switch? Im a bit thick with cars so nice and clear directions please!

the switch is located passenger side under glove box behind wiring loom
you have to remove glove box to get to it
thats if you have a rover 75

 

Open the boot...remove the engine bay cover (with flaps not the access panel).... look to the left just under where the aeirial goes into the car, you should see a black button stuck to the side of the car just under where the hinges are ..it may be brown becuase of dirt. Hold on , I have a pic on my webspace somewhere

Although unless you had a crash , why would it need resetting? :dunno:

So when you say its better, what exactly is happening?

 

An earlier poster had suggested disconnecting the switch, turning the engine over and then reconnecting the switch to solve the problem. Am I right in thinking that when you turn the ignition you should hear a 'buzz' as the pump readies itself because if that is so, it isn't happening to me!

 

 

Thanks mate - youre a gem I'll go give it a try

 

By way of an update I wasn't able to sort the car myself and the auto electrician who came out this morning has identified that my fuel pump needs replacing. The quote I have received is £180.00 for a new one, is this reasonable or can I expect to get it cheaper?

 

http://www.xpartautoservicecentre.com/RVEa9e9d9e4f46a4323b8443382a341cc2a,,.aspx

search by postcode to get your nearest XPART stockist. Give them a ring to compare prices.

or contact http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ --- best by phone.

or MGOC Shop http://www.mgocaccessories.co.uk/acatalog/MGF_ENGINE_FUEL.html depends on VIN.

 

I have rimmers catalogue here, fuel pump is either

223.77
162.37
or
184.44 depending on year of car.

I had no idea they were so expensive!!

Scrapyard?

 

So £180 seems a reasonable quote then, still expensive.

 

Yeah, £184.44 is about right, I nearly had a bloody heart attack. Scrapyard is a decent idea but I can't imagine there are too many MGF's to be found. Still, I got the car for a song so it's money well spent. I'm so impressed by the spirit on the forum, it's a real community - thanks very much to everyone who has lent a hand I hope I can return the favour in years to come. Cheers, John

 

Well there a`re 5 MGFs in my local scrappy and I dont exactly live in an over populated part of the country. Worth a couple of phone calls surely?

 

give roverbreakers a ring, always helpful.

 

give http://www.247spares.co.uk/ a try. You tell them what you want, they find up to 4 breakers who have it, you contact the breaker and they send you the parts. Normally next day (if ordered before noon). Can depend on which breaker you choose.

 

Are you sure it is the pump? Reason I ask is I had a similar issue with my pump not working and it proved to be the connector. I read somewhere that heat from the engine bay can cause expansion of the connector over time which results in loose pins in it.

Whilst not wishing to cast aspertions on your auto electrician, it may well be worth double checking the connector is making good contact - perhaps applying some switch or contact cleaner. It is a little difficult to access the fuel pump but it can be done (for testing this anyway) without removing the t-bar, by removing just 3 bolts and sliding the access panel to the side.

I actually had the nice AA man do mine, ironically at their former headquarters in Windsor where I was visiting at the time. It took him about 40 minutes in all, including checking all the fuses etc..