Hi Ron,
I have a 98 220SDI, i would like to try the MAF disconnection as i think the car is very sluggish below 2500. Question is where the hell is it!
I do not have a manual yet.

Cheers

PAul

 

You will not see much of a difference as the maf sensor on the sdis doesn't affect the fuelling. Its only used to control the egr valve so any effect you feel will be due to this staying closed.

The sensor is located in the intake duct from the air filter housing.

Ron

 

Thx Ron
Yep it made no difference guess i will just have to wait till i get the decat fitted. Also do you recommend ITG filters?? i read a thread about the chap who makes the decat's and something about him selling green filters on ebay??

Paul

 

I have used ITG filter and the part no for all the L series is ITG- WB290 from
http://motorsportworld.co.uk

I don't think there will be much to separate the various makes, though I recommend a preoiled one (ITG, Green,BMC) on the 25/45Zr/Zs in case you over oil it and the excess contaminates the maf sensor.

Ron

 

Pierburgh Maf

I can now suply these for £50 inc vat + £3.50 p&p. Eurocarparts price is £52.69 + postage.

Postage is free if you buy one with a mafam or Synergy.

The maf will fit the 75/Zt/Freelander Td4 and the 25/45ZR/Zs L series.

It MUST be used with a mafam: MF75p for the BMW engine, MF1p for the L series.

So the total cost for a mafam and maf is £107.50 inc postage & vat

The PB maf seems to be more reliable than the Bosch one and defintiely more relaibe than the Chinese copies being sold on ebay.

Please see this thread:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=156195

Ron

 

Can I fit just a Pierburgh maf?
You can, but you won't be very happy with the lack of low down torque! A mafam is a must to match the Pierburgh maf to the ecu.

Arrg! Wish I had known that before I fitted it! I changed the MAF at my Dad's in Spain and drove back with it fitted. (I had removed the TU3 box following the problems I had with the Diesel leak, but it will be going back on now)

Was wondering why it was struggling to pull the trailer & his 400!

eek. Driving it since I dropped the trailer off, I'm amazed it could pull anything at all, its only slightly quicker with no trailer and no 400! That's probably around 1.25 tonnes less to pull.

 

Stick to what you know best Steve and I'll do the cars! :dddc:

 

Role of a MAF sensor in a 98 sdi

Hi, sorry but could someone clarify something for me. I've got a '98 sdi and am curious as to the role of the MAF. I think mine's goosed, disconnected it and got aminor improvement. If i understand correctly the MAF in the 98 sdi is only used to control exhaust gas recirculation and a common mod is to blank this off. Is disconnecting the MAF acheiving a similar effect, or does disconnecting the MAF on 98 sdi do anything else?

If iw as to get a new MAF would a standard 4-pin Pierburg be ok? or would i require the MAFAM mod too? Just consccious of 'modding' and insurance ramifications!

Could someone clarify in idiot speak so i can understand the role of the MAF on a 98 sdi?

thanks!

Rich

 

Hi, sorry but could someone clarify something for me. I've got a '98 sdi and am curious as to the role of the MAF. I think mine's goosed, disconnected it and got aminor improvement. If i understand correctly the MAF in the 98 sdi is only used to control exhaust gas recirculation and a common mod is to blank this off. Is disconnecting the MAF acheiving a similar effect, or does disconnecting the MAF on 98 sdi do anything else?

If iw as to get a new MAF would a standard 4-pin Pierburg be ok? or would i require the MAFAM mod too? Just consccious of 'modding' and insurance ramifications!

Could someone clarify in idiot speak so i can understand the role of the MAF on a 98 sdi?

thanks!

Rich

The maf on the pre '99 L series does only control the egr valve so when you disconnect it, the only reason you feel any improvement, which is usually small, is because the egr valve remains closed.
You can prove this by reconnecting it and instead disconnecting the small vacuum tube (3mm dia) from the egr actuator. The same small improvement will be felt. This is my preferred way to disable the egr valve.

It's therfore not necessary to replace the maf. If it fails and the engine warning light comes on, you can unplug it.

Ron

 

Insurance question

My Rover was recently written off in an accident and it had a MAFAM unit fitted. The insurance company have asked about it and I tried to give a brief description of what it was designed to do, or at least my understanding of it. So far the company are dragging their feet on a settlement and I am getting concerned that they might use the MAFAM box as an excuse not to settle.

As my description to the insurance company may not have been particulaly good, and I know you say on your web site that you wouldn't want to be the one to try and explain about the unit but any assistance to placate the insurance company would be much appreciated. The only point I did try to stress was that the unit wasn't designed to boost power.

 

My Rover was recently written off in an accident and it had a MAFAM unit fitted. The insurance company have asked about it and I tried to give a brief description of what it was designed to do, or at least my understanding of it. So far the company are dragging their feet on a settlement and I am getting concerned that they might use the MAFAM box as an excuse not to settle.

As my description to the insurance company may not have been particulaly good, and I know you say on your web site that you wouldn't want to be the one to try and explain about the unit but any assistance to placate the insurance company would be much appreciated. The only point I did try to stress was that the unit wasn't designed to boost power.

Have they told you why they are dragging their feet?
If they try to claim the mafam was a mod and use it as an excuse, please let me know and I will email you a letter explaining what the mafam does.

Ron

 

My 420 SLDi Turbo's (1999) maf is (according to Haynes) connected to the EGR and the fuel pump. Does the MAF really have nothing to do with the fuel pump ?

 

No it is only used by the ecu to regulate exhaust gas recirculation on the sdis.
Hence changing it is a waste of time.

On the later models, it is used to control the fuelling as well mainly below 2500rpm.

Ron

 

On an SDI etc, could a really contaminated MAF cause the EGR to operate under loads when it would affect performance/mpg, i.e. when you want power, by vastly under-reporting the air flow, or is there a load/throttle position calculation considered by the ECU when deciding whether to employ EGR or not which would prevent this?

Does anyone know?

 

Since some owners report an improvement in performance when the egr valve is disconnected or the maf is disconnected, I believe it is possible for a faulty one to adversely affect the performance & mpg.

This can be explained by the egr valve being open too far or too early, or not being closed soon enough.
It has no direct effect on the ecu's fuelling in as much as the mass of air flowing is not used to alter the fuel quaitiy injected. (like it does on the 25/45)

But if its open when it shouldn't be, it will let boost pressure bypass the intake manifold. This is the most likley explanation why disabling it improves the low down throttle response.

If it is open too far, hesitation is possible for the same reason.

Ron

 

Where abouts is the maf on the rover 75 please as i would like to test mine out.

 

There's a photo on my 75 Home page

http://45zs.info/75Zt/R75home.htm

You need to remove the air filter cover to get to it.

Ron

 

Cheers Ron

 

Hi ROn!
Got a mafam MF1 for my 115ps ZS (from a friend who sold his 115ZR) and i have the default orange light when i plug it :/
I've verified the connections and they're good, also, i lose power between 2000 and 3000rpm (checked on many settings) and it won't go after 4000 whereas unplugged i have a lil lost of power between 3000and 3500 but then it goes straight up to 4500.
I hadn't had the owner manual of this but, else than plugging and setting it with ignition off, are there other things to do?
I saw on it you wrote that it won't cause fault code but the light is really there.. any idea?
(My car is remapped and wingy decated)
Cheers!

 

Without testing the mafam, I can only speculate that your maf sensor is not just out of spec, its too far gone for the mafam to be able to correct.

If the light comes on when you plug it in, I would suspect incorrect connection, but again, a faulty maf or mafam could cause it.

I will test it if you return it to me, if its okay, I'd replace the maf.
Will pm you my address.

Ron

 

Will send you as soon as i can, unfortunately i work in the postal service's hours...My maf sensor is 40000km (~ 27k miles for you)

 

Ron, I have standard Maf and one of your MF1/75 Mafams. I have had to turn up my Mafam to full lately to compensate for lost performance. I am thinking that my Maf must be dying now and I presume I can only use a Bosch one to replace it with my Mafam, Is that correct Ron ? If so, where can I get one ?

 

I can upgrade your MF1/75 to a p model for £5.00 and then supply you with a Pierburgh maf. The total is £58.50. That's a lot cheaper than a Bosch maf!

Ron

 

Mafam 1p

Just a brief note to say thank you for a superb product (MAFAM1P). I've had the MAfAM fitted to my 02 Rover 45 TD for a couple of weeks now and tested it at settings between 9 and 12 O'clock. To be honest, I've not noticed much difference in this range of settings. However, overall the difference in low rev pull is noticeable and a much quicker throttle response is evident. The car feels totally different - smoother, quicker, more powerful. Congratulations on a high quality, 'does what it says on the tin' MAFAM! Feel free to use me as ref.

Do you recommend even more power could be had by fitting one of your tuning boxes? If so, which box is designed for the car and what further improvement could I expect?

Secondly, I also have 01 model 2.0HDI Peugeot 206. Standing start is excellent but once over 40mph, it feels breathless and lacking power until well over 60mph when it starts to pull again. Do you recommend a tuning box for this vehicle? What do you have in your armoury? What difference would it make?

 

Just a brief note to say thank you for a superb product (MAFAM1P). I've had the MAfAM fitted to my 02 Rover 45 TD for a couple of weeks now and tested it at settings between 9 and 12 O'clock. To be honest, I've not noticed much difference in this range of settings. However, overall the difference in low rev pull is noticeable and a much quicker throttle response is evident. The car feels totally different - smoother, quicker, more powerful. Congratulations on a high quality, 'does what it says on the tin' MAFAM! Feel free to use me as ref.

Do you recommend even more power could be had by fitting one of your tuning boxes? If so, which box is designed for the car and what further improvement could I expect?

Secondly, I also have 01 model 2.0HDI Peugeot 206. Standing start is excellent but once over 40mph, it feels breathless and lacking power until well over 60mph when it starts to pull again. Do you recommend a tuning box for this vehicle? What do you have in your armoury? What difference would it make?

Thanks for that feedback.
Sadly, i don't have any tuning boxes for the 25/45/Zr/Zs. There are few companies now doing them and they are expensive - ~£500. A remap would be cheaper. Try a private message to Pocketbikeuk

I can help improve your 206hdi though.
My Tu3H is a plug and play module that will boost the power of a 90bhp engine to about 110bhp with better throttle response, low and midrange torque. It costs £149 + £5.50 p&p.
More info here:

http://tuning-diesels.com/tu3all.htm

If you lift off the engine cover and find the label on the fuel rail, it will state either Bosch or Siemens. I just need to know which when you order.
Cheers,
Ron

 

Sadly, i don't have any tuning boxes for the 25/45/Zr/Zs.

But, is it possible for you to make one for the 25/45 etc Ron ?

 

no response

Hi Ron I need your advice I have a r45 2.0l connisuer diesel and a af ew weeks ago purchased a mafam off you. Installed it on car and everything was fine. However another problem has started, when I start the car from cold the car fires up and settles to a smooth idle, but if I try to pull of the eninge revs rise very slowly up to about 1900 revs, and its like a switch is opperated the car takes off like a bat out of hell. It odsen't matter if I put my foot to the floor the revs rise very slowly but once it revs the car runs fine until the next restart. I did find out this morning that if I unplug the mafam the car starts and revs correctly when started does this mean my MAF is shot or do I just need to play about with the settings on the mafam.
cheers JOHN

 

Hi Ron I need your advice I have a r45 2.0l connisuer diesel and a af ew weeks ago purchased a mafam off you. Installed it on car and everything was fine. However another problem has started, when I start the car from cold the car fires up and settles to a smooth idle, but if I try to pull of the eninge revs rise very slowly up to about 1900 revs, and its like a switch is opperated the car takes off like a bat out of hell. It odsen't matter if I put my foot to the floor the revs rise very slowly but once it revs the car runs fine until the next restart. I did find out this morning that if I unplug the mafam the car starts and revs correctly when started does this mean my MAF is shot or do I just need to play about with the settings on the mafam.
cheers JOHN

Its most likley that your maf is indeed now defunct. A Pierburgh one is £56.50 delivered.

Ron

 

Just wanted to thank you Ron for the mafam. I rang you a few months back and you told me to send you the mafam to have a look at. Its worked fine ever since, dont know what i did to it but thankyou for fixing it.

Can't recommend this man enough really nice to deal with on the phone and sorted out my problem for me incredibly quickly with no qualms, cheers

 

maf ?

Hi Ron,
I've been reading with interest the various articles on loss of low down performance. I have a 1999 75 cdt. It has always been a little slugish under 1,800 revs and dies out at about 4,000 revs. After studying what is said I have disconnected my maf and tried 0-60 tests. There does not feel much difference to me and when I measured the acceleration against the clock I got just over 12 seconds (changing up at 4,000 rpm) with the maf connected and just over 11 seconds without it connected. these differences could also be down to my driving style. What I would like you to advise me is: Do you think 0-60 in over 12 secs is ok for a car with 150,000 on the clock or do you think the performance should be a little better? If you advise me on a pieburg maf and an MF75p, where do I place the MF75p and is it something that I can do myself?
Thanks in anticipation.
Gary.

 

Hi Ron,
I've been reading with interest the various articles on loss of low down performance. I have a 1999 75 cdt. It has always been a little slugish under 1,800 revs and dies out at about 4,000 revs. After studying what is said I have disconnected my maf and tried 0-60 tests. There does not feel much difference to me and when I measured the acceleration against the clock I got just over 12 seconds (changing up at 4,000 rpm) with the maf connected and just over 11 seconds without it connected. these differences could also be down to my driving style. What I would like you to advise me is: Do you think 0-60 in over 12 secs is ok for a car with 150,000 on the clock or do you think the performance should be a little better? If you advise me on a pieburg maf and an MF75p, where do I place the MF75p and is it something that I can do myself?
Thanks in anticipation.
Gary.

11-12 secs is normal for 0-60, but as the maf affects the low end (1000-2500) especially, the best way to measure the effect of the maf is to time from 1500-2500rpm in 4th (about 30-50mph) with it connected and then disconnected.

If there is little difference, then changing the maf or fitting a MF75p will probably not have much effect.

In which case a Synergy 1 could be fitted to boost the performance substantially, from about 1500rpm.

If you did find an improvement with the maf disconnected, then a Synergy 2 connects to the maf in place of a MF75p and will also boost power to around 145bhp.

Ron

 

Hi Ron,

Just wondering, I have a 97 'R' 420 SLDi, the consumption is a bit iffy (about 36-38 mpg at best) from what you've said earlier would disconnecting the wire from the EGR actuator possibly help that? and would there be any negative side effects in the long term?

 

You should find the performance at low rpm a bit better but it's not likley to make much difference to the mpg.

Your mpg is poor - you should definitely be getting more like 45-50 assuming you don't drive everywhere at 85 or do all your driving in urban areas, racing chavs in their Corsas!

Ron

Have you checked the usual things?
Brake lights for correct operation, tyre pressures, brakes for binding, tracking, wire to no 1 injector for chafing, splits in the intercooler hoses or leaks at the joints and serviced it recently inc fuel filter.

Also, don't use supermarket fuel (costs 3-4mpg less), put Millers Diesel Sport 4 in the fuel and Zx1 in the engine and transmission.

 

Yup, all checked, new tyres last week with tracking adjusted, they also checked the brakes, i check all the lights as a matter of habit reguarly and the oil, air and fuel filters were all changed recently, there was an issue recently with flat spots but that was found yesterday to be a duff hose from the wastegate, all other hoses and the wire to the #1 injector were checked at the same time, reconnecting the wastegite pipe may have cured the mpg issue but I won't know till tonight when I drive home and I don't think it's particuarly likely as I had consumption issues before I developed the flat spot problems.

Different mixes of fuel used as I drive up and down the country a lot, but I tend to use redex every 1000 miles or less, it could just be getting old but that's just seems to vague a reason.

Also Ron, been poking about round your site, excellent as it is, I'm about to do the mod to use a multimeter in leiu of a boost gague but you've failed to state wether the DVM should be set to AC or DC Volts.

Thanks
Sean

 

You seem to have checked most things. So if the boost is down, inicating a leak, this may be the answer. Otherwise its hard to know.

What's it like for low down torque? Do you have keep it above 2k rpm and have to change down and generally drive it like a petrol nasp?
It should pull well from 1500rpm in top and generally feel relaxed and quite torquey. There should be no smoke nor sooty deposits on the bumper.

Maybe one of my Tu1's will help!

The dmm needs to be on DC volts.

Ron

 

Haha, I'm seriously considering a TU1 but the cambelt needs changing first, job for next month.

The car pulls pretty well, I'll try and give a more detailed report on how it drives after I get back tonight as I'll have a better idea, driving round central london isn't the best place to stretch its legs but a good blast up the M1 and round my home town should give some better results

I can't find the MAP sensor under my bonnet for love nor money, whereabouts is it located geographically? I can't see anything like what's in the picture.

 

I have just had my ZTT CDTI serviced (£112 for 60k service supplying my own oil - well impressed!) and the garage have picked up a fault code saying the MAF is faulty. I have the mafam fitted but not switched on as this causes excessive smoke, the "power" switch is set to 2 or 3 and gives a good improvement. The thing is reading the previous comments, I am unsure I need a new one, the management light is not on, the car pulls well low down and will easily pull beyond the redline. Is it time to switch the MAFAM part on and accept the smoke, or is the garage's reader "iffy". I have used the garage for some time and totally trust them.

 

Its probably that your maf is one the 25% or so that give out too high a signal rather than the opposite. This would explain the smoke as soon as the mafam section is switched on.

If your mpg is okay and as the car seems to be going fine, I would leave it as is for now. Otherwise a Pierburgh maf is recommended.

Ron

 

Thanks Ron, Fuel consumption has taken a dive from mid 40's to 40 or below, but I assumed this was due to a change in use, garage did say that airfilter was filthy, so hopefully the new one should help, would you recommend switching mafam on or leave off, as from what you say it sounds like it would be best left off?

 

Ideally you need a Pierburgh maf and the mafam section switched on.
This will restore the mpg.

Otherwise turning the mafam on with the existing maf will make it worse.
Ron

 

So replacing with a pierburg will/should improove the mpg ?, is the pierburg a straightswap, using the synergy temp sensor ? is there any cutting involved ? and where does the sensor go, in the airbox, or just attached to the bulkhead as it is now ?

 

Yes, the Pierburgh maf is a direct swap and uses the IAT, (as in fact, does the current maf.)
You can leave the IAT where it is as the location isn't critical.

Ron