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L Series - Performance - What to Check

4.9K views 46 replies 15 participants last post by  gmax  
#1 ·
For all those people who know about the noisey L series. Would it be possible for us to create a list of what things can be checked to make sure performance is up to speed.

Currently I have:

>Replaced the Fuel Filter (should be done every 12k)
>Change the Air Filter (should be done every 24k)
>Changed the Oil (preferably every 6k book states 12K)
>Changed the Coolant (preferably every 24k)

Never had an L series before, so thinga to check are good :D
 
#4 ·
Make sure the MAF is performing correctly. Unplug the MAF plug and go for a drive, if the MAF is not performing you will now notice a massive difference.

My MAF was out of spec, it was very sluggish below 2000 rpm. Unplugged the MAF cable, and boy did it move!! Bought a MAFAM off Roverron and the performance is astounding, pulls like a train at low revs (about 12-13k rpm) and it just keeps on going.

Make sure the throttle linkage has no free play in it, so you get maximum response from the throttle.

Adjust the boost waste gate actuator (think that's what is it called) three turns to make it shorter to give about 19psi boost. This will help any remap made in the future.

De-cat, i have removed the entire innards of my cat. The engine now revs freely and completely removed turbo lag. You could fit a de-cat pipe rather than gutting the cat.

Fitting a performance air filter (such as ITG) will help breathing of the engine. I have not done this yet, so i do not know what difference it will make. This is next on my shopping list.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
25tdi
 
#10 ·
It is a SDi Intercooled version.

The car doesnt really have much power under 2k. However I find it hard to compare as up until this week i have been using a Ti.

Where is the MAF Sensor?

Also why is it when you unplug the lower rad pipe only about 3l at most coolant comes out. I had to unplug the rear coolant pipe on the block to get the rest out. Usually most cars emit all their coolant (apart from stuff stuck in head) when you remove lower pipe (even RAVE says just remove lower pipe only).

Thanks Guys
 
#11 ·
Importantnote On 200/400/600 Sdi Maf Sensors

gmax said:
It is a SDi Intercooled version.

The car doesnt really have much power under 2k. However I find it hard to compare as up until this week i have been using a Ti.

Where is the MAF Sensor?

Also why is it when you unplug the lower rad pipe only about 3l at most coolant comes out. I had to unplug the rear coolant pipe on the block to get the rest out. Usually most cars emit all their coolant (apart from stuff stuck in head) when you remove lower pipe (even RAVE says just remove lower pipe only).

Thanks Guys
The MAF sensor on the 200/400/600 L series DOES NOT affect the performance. It's only used to control the egr valve. So don't waste time or money on it.

(It very much does on the post '99 cars - ie the 25/45Zr/Zs as these use a different inj pump and ecu and the MAF sensor drastically affects the fuelling on these.)

On the dis one of my Tuneam tuning boxes will make it go a lot better from 1250rpm if you want more driveability as well as a power boost.
http://45zs.info/Tuneam/tuneam.htm

Ron
 
#14 ·
gmax said:
Currently at half a tank and only 130miles acheived. I hope it gets a bit better. Then again still cheaper than the Ti.
130 miles to half a tank??? Somethings not right down the line somewhere.
Do you thrash the F**k out of her???

my GSDI will usally do around 400 miles to a tank being driven hard at times with air con on say 50% of time?? Heavyer car etc too
 
#15 ·
gmax said:
BTW I have a rear bulb out, does this effect power at all. Looking through old posts about Diesels it appears the rear brake lights have something to do with engine power? Odd.
Rear bulb out shouldn't effect power at all if you ask me... if anything should give more power

correct me if I’m wrong! :_poke:

I have a Tunit 2 on my 400 GSDi, reckon it must be pushing out 130-140 BHP now....its all torque it's great. Nobody expects it so quick once you get it into second gear +

Recommend!!!!

Got it off a fellow member on here too for ÂŁ100 which helped the ÂŁ365 RRP :rocker:
 
#20 ·
gmax said:
Its probably my heavy foot.

I have given it a few top speed runs, a country side thrashing.

The car gets to temp (on guage) after around 5 mins.

Though if anyone has any ideas what could lower fuel consumption, I am all ears.
Don't thrash it all the time!!

Seriously though, use the torque of the engine rather than changing down all the time. I can accelerate pretty sharpish in 5th from say 50mph to 70mph.
Look ahead of you, observe road conditions i.e if you see the traffic lights in front of you are on red, slow down and hopefully they may change to green with out you needing to change gear or jump on the brakes at the last minute.

When cruising down the motorway (or similar), raise the accelerator until the car starts to slow down, many people use too much throttle to maintain speed. Thus using more fuel to do the same speed.

Hope this helps

Cheers
25tdi
 
#24 ·
25tdi said:
Don't thrash it all the time!!

Seriously though, use the torque of the engine rather than changing down all the time. I can accelerate pretty sharpish in 5th from say 50mph to 70mph.
Look ahead of you, observe road conditions i.e if you see the traffic lights in front of you are on red, slow down and hopefully they may change to green with out you needing to change gear or jump on the brakes at the last minute.

When cruising down the motorway (or similar), raise the accelerator until the car starts to slow down, many people use too much throttle to maintain speed. Thus using more fuel to do the same speed.

Hope this helps

Cheers
25tdi
Lol, I didn't actually mean how to drive. I meant are there any mechanical parts / sensors that can go duff over time. I have no interest in changing my driving style :devil: However I have been hammering the engine much more so than usual as it had been stood since April so any excuse to blow the cobwebs out.
Bear in mind I hammered all my T16 Turbo cars, so going down to a diesel you have to hammer it everywhere to get it to move lol.

Just filled the tank back up so i can work out mpg. I have attained 37mpg lol. I am quite happy with that considering how the 160miles i have driven.
 
#26 ·
gmax said:
Lol, I didn't actually mean how to drive. I meant are there any mechanical parts / sensors that can go duff over time. I have no interest in changing my driving style :devil: However I have been hammering the engine much more so than usual as it had been stood since April so any excuse to blow the cobwebs out.
Bear in mind I hammered all my T16 Turbo cars, so going down to a diesel you have to hammer it everywhere to get it to move lol.

Just filled the tank back up so i can work out mpg. I have attained 37mpg lol. I am quite happy with that considering how the 160miles i have driven.
if youve got no interest in changing your driving style i dont think a L series diesel will suit you.hammering it wont gain you much extra performance as its the torque what counts with these engines,all u will do is increase your fuel consumption(as youve found out),better to change up at 3.5k revs and ride the torque(providing yours is running right of coarse),if you feel you have to thrash it everywhere you may well have a fault.

i usually get about 48 mpg with mixed driving out of my 25td.