Needed to replace bushes on my shock absorbers (dampers). I know they ar enot polys, but for £1.60 each, if they last another 8 years, then I am not complaining 
Looked at excellent how to on Rob Bells site. This involved removing dampers. Not a problem...on paper. Couldnt get a good enough grip on top part of the shock to remove top bolt.
So I thought...do I need to remove damper...
No I didn't. Thought it was just easy cos my bush was so knackered, but on the other side, the bush was in better condition and I still did it without removing anything on car, just 1 bolt
So , I will skip obvious stuff such as removing wheels and using axle stands for safety, as this is obvious.
Here is the shock absorber with bush at bottom. This was easily moveable with my fingers...bad times..
![Image]()
This bolt is 17mm, not 14 as mentioned on Rob Bells site. However most sockets wont fit over the bolt, so you need a deep socket. I had a double ender I use to remove wheel nuts, 17 on one side, 19 on the other (19 for the wheel nuts), and this worked a treat. You need to hold the nut at the other side with a socket/wrench or an adjustable wrench.
![Image]()
Caution though the bolt on the bush side was well rusted on and this happened to my first 13mm socket. Found a HF Pro one which is good quality and that did the job. You may also want to lube the end of the bolt with release oil for 5 mins or so as this is very rusty and its hard to get the nut off the last bit.
![Image]()
Anyway, when nut comes off, remove the bolt, a spacer and 2 washers will fall out. The washer goes against bush, the spacer against suspension parts.
![Image]()
The first bush just pushed out by hand, as did the central metal tube (can't think of a good name just now). The other side was in better nick though and in order to get metal tube out I had to use mole grips and a small socket with tapered end. Pushed the small end into tube then presses it through with moles grips.
![Image]()
Next the bush, again much tighter this time. Used a screwdriver and it was easy enough to persuade out.
![Image]()
Here is old bush (worn) and new one. Cost, £1.60 from Rimmers
![Image]()
![Image]()
To replace, this is where a vice comes in handy. Not ideal if you are doing it on the car, but my vice was small enough to do the job, I reckon it would also be possible just using mole grips etc.
![Image]()
Anyway lube up the rubber :naughty:, I used white lithium grease, dunno if thats OK or not. I assume it wont perish the rubber though. The bush simply presses in by hand.
I then used the vice to insert the metal tube into the bush. Finished it off using mole grips.
Or another tip here
![Image]()
Now, in true Haynes fashion, fit in reverse
The nearside one had an extra bracket which attaches to a cable to the brakes. This remains attached though, so its difficult to not remember to connect it.
![Image]()
Whilst wheel was off I changed my chavvy red rear calipers to silver, to match the front. Bit less "show off" than red, but better than rusty metal.
![Image]()
Looked at excellent how to on Rob Bells site. This involved removing dampers. Not a problem...on paper. Couldnt get a good enough grip on top part of the shock to remove top bolt.
So I thought...do I need to remove damper...
No I didn't. Thought it was just easy cos my bush was so knackered, but on the other side, the bush was in better condition and I still did it without removing anything on car, just 1 bolt
So , I will skip obvious stuff such as removing wheels and using axle stands for safety, as this is obvious.
Here is the shock absorber with bush at bottom. This was easily moveable with my fingers...bad times..
This bolt is 17mm, not 14 as mentioned on Rob Bells site. However most sockets wont fit over the bolt, so you need a deep socket. I had a double ender I use to remove wheel nuts, 17 on one side, 19 on the other (19 for the wheel nuts), and this worked a treat. You need to hold the nut at the other side with a socket/wrench or an adjustable wrench.
Caution though the bolt on the bush side was well rusted on and this happened to my first 13mm socket. Found a HF Pro one which is good quality and that did the job. You may also want to lube the end of the bolt with release oil for 5 mins or so as this is very rusty and its hard to get the nut off the last bit.
Anyway, when nut comes off, remove the bolt, a spacer and 2 washers will fall out. The washer goes against bush, the spacer against suspension parts.
The first bush just pushed out by hand, as did the central metal tube (can't think of a good name just now). The other side was in better nick though and in order to get metal tube out I had to use mole grips and a small socket with tapered end. Pushed the small end into tube then presses it through with moles grips.
Next the bush, again much tighter this time. Used a screwdriver and it was easy enough to persuade out.
Here is old bush (worn) and new one. Cost, £1.60 from Rimmers
To replace, this is where a vice comes in handy. Not ideal if you are doing it on the car, but my vice was small enough to do the job, I reckon it would also be possible just using mole grips etc.
Anyway lube up the rubber :naughty:, I used white lithium grease, dunno if thats OK or not. I assume it wont perish the rubber though. The bush simply presses in by hand.
I then used the vice to insert the metal tube into the bush. Finished it off using mole grips.
Or another tip here
Now, in true Haynes fashion, fit in reverse
The nearside one had an extra bracket which attaches to a cable to the brakes. This remains attached though, so its difficult to not remember to connect it.
Whilst wheel was off I changed my chavvy red rear calipers to silver, to match the front. Bit less "show off" than red, but better than rusty metal.
