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How to remove your instrument panel

61K views 28 replies 18 participants last post by  Bromsgrove man  
#1 ·
I needed to remove my instrument panel tonight to fix a crack in the dashboard surround so thought it best to take some photos of how to remove the instruments - handy if you want to replace any dash bulbs or install chrome dial rings etc.

First thing to do is disconnect the battery, negative first followed by the positive connection then wait 10 minutes. This discharges the airbag circuit and prevents it from being activated.

Next open the fuse box cover under the steering column and remove the 3 screws from the steering column cover.

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Next unclip the 2 halves of the column cover and remove.

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Now remove the 2 bottom screws and 2 top screws that hold the instrument suround panel in place
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http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r159/MantamadGTE/MGF INSTRUMENT PANEL/panel5.jpg

lift the surround away after disconnecting the instrument light dimmer, later models will have the door mirror adjust switch to disconnect as well -

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Now remove the 4 screws that hold the instrument cluster in place
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On Mk 1 models, disconnect the cable speedometer drive, I found it best to put my arm up from the fuse box area as shown below.

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to release the cable, press on the plastic peg as shown and pull the cable out of the housing.

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Before removing the cluster, you need to unplug the various connectors shown, later models will have an additional electronic speedo connection.

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Now remove the instrument cluster, I found it easiest to remove from the right as shown. Be carefull that it does not catch on the electrical connections on top of the steering wheel column.

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Now you can replace the bulbs by twisting the bulb holders out of the cluster as numbered (1)
If you want to gain access to the front of the dials, proceed to unclip the wire from the lighting pod at points (2) then unscrew to remove clips (3) and lift the lighting pod (4) away.
To remove the instrument 'glass' unclip the 2 clips (5)

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Then turn the instruments over to release a further 2 clips (5), the glass now lifts off.

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As usual, reverse procedure to refit.
The speedo drive cable needs to be lined up properly to click in place, just turn the cable with your fingers or pliers to get it in alignment with the square drive on the back of the speedo.
 
#8 ·
Instrument panel lights MGF

Can anyone tell me how the instrument panel, including the clock, oil guage and heater controls are actually lit? All my panel lights have suddenly failed yet the exterior lights and courtesy lights are fine. I'm guessing this is both fiddly and expensive to remedy. Thank you from a new member needing help!
 
#9 ·
#12 · (Edited)
You can get the instruments out of the housing but you would need to remove the needles to get the printed fascias out - I don't know how easy this would be. Second hand instruments are often for sale on ebay for reasonable money, if you have an electronic speedo with the digital readout, I would guess that someone who does diagnostics would be able to set the mileage on the replacement to what yours is currently at (but check first) if like me you have the analogue speedo, a replacement would always show incorrect mileage - not ideal when you come to sell, even with a genuine explaination.
 
#15 ·
Looks great glad someone has done this! However you dont need to remove all the housing arround the stearing wheel to get to the dials, i just did this yesterday to fit a low fuel warning light from 'Technozen' (member on the forum lives on the 200/25/ZR side) just remove the 4 screews on the dial surround and then lift out, remove 4 more screews and undo the 3 plugs and your away....

Plus if anyone is interested Technozen also does a replacement resistor kit to solve any fan issues. I fitted this also yesterday and now speed one works again!

I'll take a pic of the fuel warning light when i start running low of fuel.
 
#21 ·
i wanted to change my bulbs for blue ones. so i did.. but didnt want to stop there. i wanted my clock and oil temp lights changed too...

for anyone thinkin of doing this, dont bother. Ive just taken apart one of the clocks, it seems their lit up with two tiny diode lights which are built into the circuit. If your an amazing electrician, then have a go. But im not so i didnt. Do you think i was a bit nieve thinking it was just going to be a simple bulb change?
 
#24 ·
Hello people, I'm doing my dashboard lights as we speak, just waiting for the battery to discharge. From reading the forms it seems that the MGF & TF have different lamps for the oil and clock, I'm going to do them at a later date as my oil lamp has gone anyway. It seems that having a MGF I need an LED with a resister? Does anyone know what the make/model is for the LED and are the LED's the same for both the oil and clock?
 
#25 · (Edited)
Just an update on how I got on. Following this topic really helped, just a couple of things witch might help others out who have a MGF Trophy VVC 96-01.

The lamps I used was U286B (286) Dash Board Slim wedge bulb Blue Standard from ultraleds.co.uk. These was just a straight swap, you will need 5 of these, 2 for the dashboard, 1 for the oil gage and 2 for the heater controls. The clocks standard lamp is a 7mm 12v 1.2w. On the web site ultraleds.co.uk is an 7mm LED which again is a straight swap. The windows swiches you will need to solder the LED, make sure that when you solder the LED the resister is soldered to the side terminal not the top one. As for the fog switches i'm still looking for a replacment lamp. I'll let you know.
 
#29 ·
I know...

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...and I know David isn't with us anymore but very useful thread this as after sucessfully repairing the front of my dash binicle yesterday, today I found my speedo not working.

Very handy to see the connections for a mk.1 (as all the online photos I found were mk.2's) Managed to plug it all back together and back to a working car speedo and all. :)