Looking down into the bonnet, loosly tighten the bolts on the left hand side (LHD) or on the right hand side (RHD). To not overtight, it's just to hold it in place, it still needs some "free play". Please use some treadlock on the nuts.

Closeup on the clamp and bolts.

Tighten the clamp and bolts on the right hand side (LHD) or right hand side (RHD), use treadlock.

Tighten the clamp and bolts on the oposite side (The ones you have loosly screwed together.

Reattach the (preferable) new track rod ends, look at you notes and screw in as many turns as before. (1) My trackrod ends are almost new, but both(!) are in bad nick, I'm thinking about complaining to MS.. They both need to be changed before my 4 wheel aligjnment..

Hot tip: Release new clip (2) on the new steering rack, lubricate with WD40 to make it glide better.

Tighten the bolts on the trackrodends, use a bit of treadlock on both.

Say hello to the local deer family that came to visit in the middle of the job.

Reattach the 10mm bolt that holds the steering column to the steering rack by sliding it down and the plastic bit with the 3 x 10mm bolts.

Thats it. If you own a TF and are planning to change your rack..

If you own a F and are changing it, it was a few more problems.
First of all, the steering wheel would not align correct, it was very much off.. I think, again "think" this could have something to do with this beeing a TF rack. It was 180 degrees wrong (pic1). I had to Measure and align both track rods so they where the same distance (turns) from the steering rack. Unscrew the steering wheel, adjust it and reattach it. It was a bit more tricky, but doable. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, PLEASE DO CENTER THE STEERING RACK.

To remove the wheel, simply unscrew the 2 x torx screws ( I'm sorry, I don't remember the size.. ) to release the airbag, them remove the 19mm nut on the steering rack. Please see Andys excellent how to for further information.


Hot tip/You need to know this: It's hard for me to explain this in english, but the airbag is connected to this unit, it follows the moment of the steering wheel, but if you turn it to many times it could snap, so please note your steering wheels position, and do not alter this more than neccesary.

I hope this post can be usefull to the memebers of .org and other places. Again, be carefull and always secure your car.

A special thank you to Pete, and Pete's site. To Andy, and the allmighty Herbie for his excellent service providing me with this part and saving me a lot of money.

I would be happy to answer any questions, either by PM or email, please do not hesitate to ask.

At the end, two pictures comparing the LHD car to the RHD, as you see, it looks very much the same, only "opposite". I hope this would be usefull to all my friends in the UK.

Right hand side, looking down into the bonnet:

Left hand side:

Please note that this post might be altered as I discover typos, and errors.

Edit: The reason for doing this job, it seems that my lovely MG is one of the few cars that then needs to change the whole steering rack just because one joint i loose, the "inner" one had some slack in it, and therefor I had to do this job.:

Edit2: Shiny new part, complements from Herbie! :

 

That's a cracking guide Morten, one for Petey's Hall of Fame methinks :broon: :rocker:
(I like the zoomed details in some pics and the nosy deer :lol: )

Glad you finally had the time to fit the it, fascinating as I've got this part in my hand I did the centralisation like you did as described for the F, rotated the steering wheel from completely left to right, counted the whole turns and back on the half mark I fitted the track rod ends to both rack ends with the same distance on both threads. After that I went to the tyre shop and got it aligned properly.

 

It's all becuse of you mate. The least a could do was snap a couple of pictures for the rest of the MG world to see. Thanks mate. I forgot to mention, the whole job took about 4 hours. And there is no difference between cars with PAS and without as the unit is located further up on the steering column.

I really do notice the difference, much sharper cornering with the TF rack, full lock with about one and a half turn on the wheel. I'm one happy Norwegian Stephan, much thanks to you!

 

Will be even better when you've got the tracking done and the steering wheel completely centered. Glad to be of service mate

Is your F now ready for the Norwegian TÜV ?
(... and prepared for MGFIM in September :dddc: )

 

Not yet my friend, still need to recieve my rear track rod end.. But almost.. You might remember my story with MGBreaker.. (Still have to drive around in a 94 Citroen ZX, BUT it does have a .org sticker in the back window. )

Yes mate, I still have one week holiday to spare, so thank you very much. Stephan, would you provide me with a PM with details? It's very tempting as i seem to miss MGFest this year...

 

Fantastic write up and great pictures

 

Great How To! I'll be keeping the link to that one in my files. Love the BSA in the background, and don't quite understand why you're not eating venison pie

 

Fantastic write up and pics :broon:

 

Thanks guys and girls. I knew about the existing how to, but I think it's always usefull to have other thoughts and pics. Thank you again.

 

I'd like to add that the label with the part number on the new rack must be wrong or the false one as this is definitively the newest rack available (it's the number from the F one if anyone checks with the EPC, TF one is QAB000250)

I have checked back and have the same rack fitted like Morten. Definitively the newest one available for LHD where lesser turns are needed to get it to full left or right. Today I panicked and had quite a few phone conversations. I thought I sent Morten a false one :yikes: as I bought his rack from here.

All is well and you can go on trusting me
(thx Dieter for startling me on that matter !)

 

Great writeup matey :broon:

Out of curiosity, how much did the rack cost you? Just had a quick look here and got a price of £279.80! :yikes:

 

And the TF rack is off my wish list !!

Damn that's a hell of a job, with limited access and positions breaking your back. The F rack is just perfect and I don't really need the TF racK.

Great write up and pics.

 

Nice guide Morten.

I assume you specificly went for a TF rack opposed to a F rack, due to a different 'transmission' (say full-lock left to full lock right in 1.5 turns for the TF, in stead of 2 or more turns for the F)?

 

From 3.2 turns lock to lock to 2.8 (RHD version how-to http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY/steering_rack/index.htm)

 

Excellent how to.
However if I were to contemplate the task i would get the deer to do it as they were watching the whole process and should be able to do it easily enough..

Seriously though. very useful how to as a guide to removing/inspecting the rack assembly wether its rhd or lhd..


Rep given....

 

Phil, sorry but Morten deserves rep not me, it was his excellent job and write-up

 

you helped too so both of you got it..

 

Upps, how very kind, thank you Sir :O