Now remove the split pin form the bottom ball joint using a pair of pliers, and undo the nut (18mm).

Fit the ball joint splitter, and break the joint...

...like so!

Now lift the hub out of the bottom arm, and pull it away from the car. Tap the outer CV with a hammer, and hopefully it'll pop out of the hub, leaving you with the exposed CV. Manouver the hub away from the CV.

There's the problem! Reluctor ring just fell off, the split is clearly visible at 6 O'clock.

Using the hacksaw, cut through the big clip.

Unfortunately I didn't get any pics of this (both hands in use) but to remove the CV, I pulled it with one hand, and beat it with the hammer from behind until it popped off.
**DISCLAIMER** I'm not sure how wise it is to try and remove the CV with the shaft still on the car, as potentially the other CV could seperate, or the shaft could pop out of the gearbox. But it seemed to work for me.

Ta-daa!

Now cut off the other clip, and remove the old boot.

Here's the old CV circlip, remove it with pliers and a screwdriver. Mind your eyes, it'll ping!

Cont'd

 

Clean off the old grease, and fit the new boot to the shaft.

Fit the new circlip.

Here's the messy bit: Grease up the new CV! splurge it on, and smush it in with a finger. lovely.

Offer up the new CV to the shaft. I've temporarily re-fitted the old hub nut to the new CV to protect it. Now give it some gentle persuasion with the hammer, and it should pop nicely onto the shaft, and the circlip will fix it in place. Squirt any remaining grease into the boot.

Fit the boot over the CV, and secure it.
**DISCLAIMER** Does anybody know how to use those metal CV boot clips?? I don't, so I've used cable ties... Probably not too wise :lol:

Slot the CV into the hub, and put the new nut on finger tight. Drop the hub back onto the arm, and do up the nut to 55NM, then line it up with the next hole if it's not lined up. Fit a new split pin...

...like so.

Re-fit the disc. I've applied some more copper grease to the countersink to stop the screw seizing.

Re-fit the carrier... Check that the slider pins are free to move and not seized, otherwise take them apart and clean them, then regrease before continuing!

Torque up to 108NM.

Apply copper grease to the contact areas of the pads, and re-fit.

Cont'd

 

Undo the caliper, and place it over the pads.

And do up the bolts to 27NM.

Now lock the hub, and do up the hub nut to 180NM.

The hole to accept the staking of the hub nut is clear to see at 12 O'clock.

Hammer it in using your punch.

Re-fit the road wheel, do up the nuts a little, then lower the car to the ground. Torque the nuts to 110NM, and you're done!

Hopefully this will be of use to someone! Good luck...

 

Following with mucho interest

 

Can you still buy the ABS rings? if so wouldve saved a fortune on a new cv joint.

Also if the hub nut is tight tight tight - knock out the centre cap of the alloy and put the socket thru it while the car is on the ground - safer to.

Brill right up and good clear photos

 

Cv joint was only £15, ABS ring is a tenner and I don't have blowtorch if I needed one - seemed like the better option to me!

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Very good, I dont think that is the longe way mind. I read on hear about undoing just one of the arms and pivioting the hub up which is the way I now do these and its alot quicker and easier.

 

So did I do it the long way or the short way? Not sure I understood that last post lol!

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Excellent post! i shal be using this guide very soon =)

 

My ZS needs these soon, bugger.

 

Lol! I'm sure if you can swap a head you can change a CV joint no probs. It's fairly straightforward if you have the tools I listed.

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Just a quick thought i was gonna change my cv joints because they were starting to knock in corners but a mechanic i work with (who is very clued up on these things) mentioned that its a good idea just to re grease the joint its self, so im gonna give this a try first =)

 

For the amount of work it is to re-grease the joint you may as well replace the damn thing. The joints don't exactly break the bank (at least the one I bought didn't - £15 on eBay!).

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if you have a 180 then they are 40 each at the cheapest, peeling back the boot and putting some grease in is a no brainer?? in reply to the last post

 

You can pick 'em up for around a tenner each on the bay of E so not a huge cost. Or just remove the ABS fuse and don't worry about it

 

ref the CV boot clips, i only find the stainless ones to be any good. i fit mine using some pincers

1. Put the clip over the boot, lining the row of holes up with the tabs so they are as tight as possible by hand.

2. Grab the block that sticks out on the clip with the pincers and crush it which will tighten up the clip removing any slack.

 

Wish I'd seen this post earlier :lol: Took me a good 15 minutes to suss out the bands :lol: I used the same set of pincers too

 

Laser do a tool for those clips which is only a couple of quid :broon:

Nice write up though; I need to do mine so will be very useful. If you're splitting the ball joint, presumably you'll need to get the tracking done afterwards?

I must admit, I was planning on unbolting an arm rather than splitting the ball joint. If I give that method a go I'll write up that way, then we'll have a guide for each method

Will give you some rep when I've spread it around a little first

 

Laser do a tool for those clips which is only a couple of quid :broon:

Nice write up though; I need to do mine so will be very useful. If you're splitting the ball joint, presumably you'll need to get the tracking done afterwards?

I must admit, I was planning on unbolting an arm rather than splitting the ball joint. If I give that method a go I'll write up that way, then we'll have a guide for each method

Will give you some rep when I've spread it around a little first

This wat you will need 2 new ball joints I presume ?:doh:

 

I don't think you need to get the tracking done, as basically you put the hub back into the bottom arm in the same position it was to begin with - the bottom arm hasn't moved, so it should be in the same configuration as it was before. That's my logic, at least :lol:

My brother assures me a pair of side cutters or snips is all thats needed to do the CV clips, I'll give it a go and report back.

Oh, and after a lot of consideration I don't think you need to remove the brakes, I was in two minds before I started and decided to do it anyway, but I reckon there's room to do the job with the brakes still attached - again, when I tackle the passenger side boot in a few days I'll give it a go and see

 

I didn't bother removing the brake, plenty of space if you put the wheel on full lock.

 

Yep, I can confirm that you don't have to remove the brakes - did the passenger side the other day, and by turning the steering wheel you can get access quite easily.

 

brilliant guide, just what i needed, as i am about to do this soon!!
james

 

when you say you do not need to remove the brakes, does this mean the whole braking unit can stay on? i.e caliper, caliper braket, disc. my cv joints have just arrived today and i intened to do it soon. also i only have a small fork type ball joint splitter, will this do for the job? the scissor ones were about £20 quid, and the bloke said "they all do the same job" so i ended up getting the £8 one, any info on them?
thanks
james

 

I replaced my ABS rings a while back and wrote up the procedure afterwards.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=432315

It doesn't tell you how to fit the new CV joints but is covers everything else you'll need to know. And with regards to splitting the ball joint, if you do it my way, all the grease is left undisturbed instead of being squeezed out of the boot.

 

when you say you do not need to remove the brakes, does this mean the whole braking unit can stay on? i.e caliper, caliper braket, disc. my cv joints have just arrived today and i intened to do it soon. also i only have a small fork type ball joint splitter, will this do for the job? the scissor ones were about £20 quid, and the bloke said "they all do the same job" so i ended up getting the £8 one, any info on them?<br />
thanks <br />
james

Yup, every last bit of the brakes can stay on, but you may need to turn the steering wheel to one side to give you access. Regarding the balljoint splitter, I found the tuning fork style one a real pain; I couldn't split the bottom joint with it and they're far more likely to tear the balljoint boot. The scissor type is a lot easier to get on with.

 

Hi

I need your help.
My local mecanics tried to remove CV joint as usual but it is impossible remove it from the the swivel assembly on my 2004 ZS.
He even removed the assembly Cv joint from the car and try to release the tooth spline with a 8 bars press without success. The tooth spline seems to be fully blocked.

My question:
Did he do domething wrong?
Is there something to be done to release the CV joint?

Thanks to help me

Stéphane

 

The CV is stuck in the hub?

I had that problem the very first time I changed the CV boot. In the end I removed the hub and drive shaft all together, then I propped it upright and filled the splines with penetrating fluid. After an hour or so it started draining away and I was able to knock it out with a hammer quite easily after that.

Hope that helps.

 

Yes the cv is stuck in the hub.
brake disc was not removed but I think this is not required.