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How many time takes your L series to warm up?

2.5K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  MGJohn  
#1 ·
Hi,

I have an 25 TD and i wish to now if this is normal or not.

I notice this some time ago, but now on cold mornings here in Portugal (like between 0 and 5.º) it´s more noticiable. The water temperature takes so long to reach the normal working temperature.

On a moderate driving (about 40/50MPH), it takes about 15 minutes ( 9 / 10 miles) to the temperature indicator reaches the "normal" position.

However, i have the Scangauge and could see the exact temperature and when the indicator is on middle, the temperature is about 60 / 65.ºC and it won´t go above that temperature so much.. the maximum it goes at 40 / 50MPH it´s about 72 / 73.º.

On moderate temperature days, it comes to high 80´s, low 90´s without a problem.

On a long downhill (about 2 / 3 miles) i notice the temperature drops about 5.ºC. On analog manometer it drops only a little, but on the Scangauge i can confirm this with easy.

The biggest problem of this, it´s the temperature that cames from the heater. Even with the heater on the hot position, it takes ages to warm up the inside of the car. I notice that until the 70 / 80.ºC water temperature mark, the temperature that cames from the heater it´s only warm, not very hot. Once the car was almost of the time at 60 / 70.º C, it never delivers fully hot air.

On all car i have and had before, they warm up really quickly and the heater blows very hot air past 3 or 4 minutes.

I think on the thermostate, but i changed it 1 / 2 years ago. Maybe it´s stuck on open position?

So two questions for you.

- On average, how many time / miles does your car takes to warm up and heater to blows really hot air on cold mornings?

- When the gauge reaches the "normal" working temperature, your heater is already blowing hot hot air or only warm and after a while it blows really hot air?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
Ohhhh, bloody ages for my 200. Seriously, like 5 miles - more like 10 in the ice. The matrix in these is rather small and is easily blocked up, I flushed mine out twice and still it was getting clogged up with crud from the cooling system.

Add to that the fact that diesels are more thermally efficient and take a good while to warm through - and that the L-series has a big ol cast iron lock to heat up too...
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..
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You aint alone ;)
 
#9 ·
Diesels tend to run much cooler than petrol engines. Also, Diesel engine construction has to be more substantial than Petrol engines so with more metal mass to warm up, it takes more time. Often much more time.

It was the only thing I disliked about my otherwise perfect 600 diesel. I prefer to have a warm car. Unlike the L-Series, with the similar massive iron cylinder block in the Rover petrol T-Series, warm air starts to blow within a mile of a cold start in these cooler temperatures. I assume that's before the Thermostat is open. Within a few more miles it blows very hot which suits me fine.
 
#12 ·
i live in newcastle north east of england outside temp about -4 on average.5mile drive to work and temp gauge not even up to a quater of norm so dont worry about it normal for any diesel to take ages to warm up.drive buses for a living and they the same even brand new 61 plate ones take about 10 miles to get to 80 digrees :snowhouse:
 
#22 ·
On both Petrol and most Diesels, the heater is simply another radiator designed to 'lose' heat. By shutting it off Petrol engines certainly warm up a tad quicker and so I expect Diesels with the same heater arrangements would do too.

Why put my heater on full on a hot day John. Silly idea.

If ever you suspect a car is near overheating on one of the very long, very hot summer's day Motorway Traffic hold-ups, have the heater on FULL. Yes, heat in the car will be uncomfortable but less so than standing on the hard shoulder with the bonnet up steaming away nicely.

Lost count of the times I've seen folks in that "steaming" situation on those uber-long Motorway traffic hold ups. Bowling along at Motorway speeds a neglected cooling system can usually cope. The hold up and huge heat built up in the engine in the suddenly stopped car cannot be cooled sufficiently under certain running conditions like these and that's when steam starts to appear from around the bonnet. By then it's too late for those "if it aint broke why fix it" type of car users.

Glad to report that temperatures locally are much improved locally. Almost mild in comparison to last week. My heater will still be on full though. Hate the cold.
 
#18 ·
Well, so i see thats "normal". I´m surprised once all the cars i have / had warm up very fast, including a Diesel Saxo.

I think Rover should have thought on a pré-warm electric heater like some cars have :lol:

Popeye 89, on your Scangauge, if you drive at 40 / 50 MPH on cool mornings, does your temperature reading goes above the 70.ºC? In mine, even i drove 20 miles at 40 / 50, temperature never goes above 70.ºC, only if i drove at about 55 / 60 MPH. So heater never blows really hot air :(
 
#25 ·
TEMPERATURE GAUGES :~

Summer or winter, the gauge needle on all the K-Series cars in my family soon reaches "normal" reading within a mile of cold start up. No way are those engines or, their oil and coolant up to fully warmed ideal running condition.

I also view modern car on board computer readings with the same distrust, particularly fuel consumption figures.
 
#32 ·
I think i never saw mine on 95.. I think the max was 94.ºC. On this cold weather it goes to low 80´s after 10 or 15 miles and never higher than that. And on downhills the temperature drops.. Sometimes i see the gauge droping too.. When it drops below 60´s on Scangauge.

The analog gauge it´s everything less accurate. Once it reaches the 60´s it won´t move at all.. 60 or 90 it´s on the same position.

Once i had a water pump leak, it loose many water, the radiator fan´s were working at full speed and the gauge was on "normal" temperature.. In that time i hadn´t Scangauge but i´m curious to see what´s the temperature.