The starting with easy start proves there is not enough high pressure !

Chances it is an injector leak back.
If handy with multimeter,try this:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=383472&highlight=test+Diesel+High-Pressure+system

Good luck

Mike

 

Many thanks Mike will deferentially give that try tomorrow cheers.
I know the AA man did check some sort of reading on the injectors and said they were firing ok though and he said that he was looking for black smoke when running on the easy start and said it looked ok though?

 

Agree with French Mike - lack of high pressure in the fuel rail due to injector leakback or a fault with the HP pump, which is rare.

Mike

 

Hi all, so took the in tank pump out and wiped the filter ( which didn't look dirty) put all back to together ( oh forgot to say when I took it out I noticed that screw top was loose so the tank wasn't sealed tight.) and guess what it started!! Whoopy! Or not yes it is now starting ever time but it is now running lumpy ( like it is miss- firing) so am so confussed?
Also did the test which French Mike suggested ( big thank you) and take came up as normal?

Any idea's guys?

 

check fuel rail sensor .. having trouble with mine n cosidering hard wiring it . don't know if wires have come adrift in connector but will give it a bash at weekend . have to wiggle it every now n then to get life outta engine n runnin lumpy some times too .

 

Had exactly the same trouble with my cdt. Was a bad connection inside the plug. With car running I could just nudge one of the wires (the white one if memory serves) and it would cut out every time. Replacement from a scrap yard for £1 and spliced it in. Has not missed a beat since (over a year).

 

Hi Guys, thought it was all solved last night but no...
Got the AA guy to come back otu now it was running and he found the connector to injector number one was loose which is why it was running lumpy - great sort i though until this morning I came out to go to work and guess what, not starting again - same problem as before turns just doesn't fire Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!?
AA guys reconises the diagnostics for this engine are not the standard one so he can't plug in to it, does anyone know which one I need?

 

For full diagnostics you'll need someone with a T4 unit......hope you solve it!

 

You don't need to find a T4 user, just someone with the correct diagnostics for this car.

I have two system apart from the T4 that do it excellently, the Bosch KTS and the DEC SCAN.

Regards,Rob.

 

Hi Colin, thanks for the info! which plug had the dodgy connection?

cheers

 

The one on the end of the fuel rail.

 

Could be a failing cam sensor - they can cause failure to start when cold as well as hot.

Mike

 

Been out to Richard's car this morning and it's the crank sensor, no signal coming back to ECU or output from sensor, it has also caused the car to stop on the road once as well.

Regards, Rob.

 

Still not working

Right Guys,
Kindly had Rob round a few times now, chnaged the crank sensor, still would start, Rob had a bit of a message around with the key and it started. check the codes and said wrong imoblizer code and then went, check again with different system and said security error security tampered with. Car was then fine for around 4 days and then wouldn't start again. tried wigging key loads but no. The only thing is that if I take the imoblizer chip off the key it just clicks which isn't the same as with the chip as it cranks then just doesn't start? also if you spray ease start into the airflow it starts but you have to keep spraying in order for it to run? also the first day after getting it running I wnet to work and as I came off the motorway it stopped and flashed up check engine, started again and then was jerky for about 2 miles after which it was ok. I have changes over the cam and crank sensors with my father-in-laws ones off his 75 and they work fine on his, also try pressing the fuel cut switch which made no difference! I am really baffelled by this as other that it is is a lovely car (other than some f*&* ing a** hole putting two key marks either side last week)!

 

Right Guys,
Kindly had Rob round a few times now, chnaged the crank sensor, still would start, Rob had a bit of a message around with the key and it started. check the codes and said wrong imoblizer code and then went, check again with different system and said security error security tampered with. Car was then fine for around 4 days and then wouldn't start again. tried wigging key loads but no. The only thing is that if I take the imoblizer chip off the key it just clicks which isn't the same as with the chip as it cranks then just doesn't start? also if you spray ease start into the airflow it starts but you have to keep spraying in order for it to run? also the first day after getting it running I wnet to work and as I came off the motorway it stopped and flashed up check engine, started again and then was jerky for about 2 miles after which it was ok. I have changes over the cam and crank sensors with my father-in-laws ones off his 75 and they work fine on his, also try pressing the fuel cut switch which made no difference! I am really baffelled by this as other that it is is a lovely car (other than some f*&* ing a** hole putting two key marks either side last week)!

Hi Richard, I am teaching at the moment, but will ring you back when I am finished. Speak later. Regards, Rob.

 

Dicky T.

I think that with the immobiliser working the engine won't turn over.

If it runs on easystart but afterwards stops then you obviously have a fuel supply problem.

If it was only leakback on the injectors then spinning it up fast on easystart would overcome low pressure and the engine should run.

Only when turning it off and trying to start it without the easystart ie. at a lower starter motor speed, would prove low pressure if it didn't start.

I think you have a bad electrical contact on one of the sensors that is sending irregular info to the ECU, With a good contact the engine fires up and the poor contact makes it shut down again.

 

cured my fuel pressure rail sensor problem by squeezin the connections back together . Terry (tsautos ) suggested could of been caused by putting a Ron Box on or similar , expanding the contacts as they are different sized .

 

Hi Richard,

Sorry I missed you yesterday, teaching all week, and late back last night so didn't get a chance to ring, will give you a shout later.

We know that your car has good fuel pressure, the pressure sensor is not at fault and the leak back isn't the issue, the original crank sensor was faulty, the 2nd hand one we fitted at your request was working, but we don't know if it was any good when hot, however I assume that you have fitted the one from your father's car correctly and it is seated and bolted back in place, so that should eliminate the risk of it being faulty when hot.

As yours is still not starting, did you swap over the camshaft sensor as well? I know you have renewed the fuel pump, are you still happy that the under bonnet pump is OK at all times, as each time I have seen your car there is no problem with the supply pressure and rail pressure during cranking, but of course it could all be differnt when you are having the problems and I have no test equipment on it.

As I say I'll give you a shout later to discuss.

Regards, Rob.

 

re starting probs

Hi Richard,
Did you ever get this resolved?
I've got a 52 plate CDTI 135 and have problems with starting when hot or even after a short run.

Last summer I replaced the under bonnet pump (as it was noisy) and filter as there was a serious lag when accelerating in 1st and 2nd. The hot starting problems were also apparent then. Immediately after replacement it would not pressurise the rail or start and I realised that the in-tank pump had failed so I replaced that as well......

All good for 6 months and now no start or very reluctant (like 10 mins cranking) to start when hot. Now I notice that the lag (like a turbo lag) in acceleration is back....
Both pumps appear to be working OK though thee is a weep of diesel around the delivery snap connector to the tank pump (on top of the pump).
It has a first gen Ron box which is switched off, its just occurred to me that this may be causing problems so I will remove and report back on this.

I've just started reading a few posts on injector leakback, cam and crank sensor and connector problems so quite a few things to try. Have checked for fault codes but nothing showing up.
I have had a few electronic niggles during the snow/freeze, windscreen wipers not switching off until ignition is reset and warning light cluster disappearing.
I'd be grateful for any advice...?

 

Hi all. Did this ever get resolved. If so, what was the solution?
regards
Tony

 

I had the injectors refurbed by Alan at Lynxdiesels.com
Fantastic! car now starts on the button hot or cold, fuel consumption is vastly improved. I've used it for work all week and the gauge has hardly moved.
I would say that all the time and fiddling I've done could have been saved just by getting a proper leak back test and diagnostic from a good local garage -cost me £30. 2 injectors were found to be u/s and the other two were not great.
He quoted me £150 per injector but Alan and son did the lot including balancing for £370 inc vat and return delivery. Very nice chap lets you know what's happening and I highly recommend.
If your car has done any sort of mileage I would do this test first to save yourself a lot of hassle.

 

Howdy all? My 04 reg ZT-T (Automatic) Diesel has recently started displaying these non starting issues. I push the throttle to the floor and after a few attempts it fires and drives smooth till I turn engine off when arriving at destination. Now I am fearful every time I go to start especially in the current cold temperatures. Perhaps a FULL OIL CHANGE, FUEL & OIL FILTERS REPLACED? Both fuel pumps are definitely working and the cars in great shape otherwise. Restoration project nearing the finish line so this is a huge worry. Can anyone help?