my 135, remapped by Z&F with milltek exhaust has been rolling roaded at 148bhp :broon:

 

That's good.

I already have a ttmk7 fitted. Was thinking of getting a remap and a 4 2 1 manifold.

Not sure what that would give me? Maybe 150 ish?

 

If you're going to do exhaust, be sure to do enclosed induction

Andy Watson has 160+ from a 1.6. (Runs NOS)

Remap well worth the money!

 

:shh: NOS doesn't count :bgrin:

 

It's possible to get 160bhp from a 135 but it's gonna cost you a bit... you'll need to add at least a ss 4-2-1 possibly with the head ported and a decat pipe to get to 150ish and a real 4-2-1 is expensive (I spent almost £450 for mine...brand new).

I believe you'll need to get upgraded cams as well 270 at least

The remap is definitely the most cost/effective mod you can possibly have done.

I'm looking forward to remap mine and I've got ss 4-2-1 Janspeed + ss decat pipe + scorpion twin dual + a modified K&N Apollo.

I'm planning to have the car on a rr soon to see what I've "hopefully" gained so far ;-)

 

I probably get more out of her if i lightened the car up a bit, must have about a ton of cabling.

 

Of course, just adding a VVC head with mechs and additional wiring, along with an ECU (or remap) will get you there.

 

it would be cheaper ans easier to sell the 135 and buy a 160.

 

That was my thinking, part ex the 135 for a 160, takes minutes and totally non invasive

 

I had a TF135 with 142bhp - just a backbox and an induction kit. 0-60 was actually pretty good at that, with the car hitting 60mph in about 7.5 seconds (so just off a normal VVC F). It was timed about 7.3 on a rolling road, no drag forces however. I suspect that a remap would have hit 150bhp ish and put the car around the 7.0s 0mph to 60mph area.

That said, your NOT going to get to 160bhp with just bolt ons and a remap.

You CAN get a 135 upto 160 - I was going to do it before selling my TF and buyig Panther. The issue is getting hold of a VVC head. Now, im pretty sure, that if you got a VVC head, a blanking kit and a set of cams youd be able to bolt that on without change anything on the wiring loom side - as your not using a VVC mechanism.

To convert to a full VVC (which would be cheaper probably) youd need the head, loom and all sorts of other electrical gubbins.

Youd then have a car producing about 175bhp+ once remapped - and you'd keep the 135 driving characteristics due to the power delivery being very similar.

Issue then is that the standard 135 internals start to redline about that sort of power.

Id recommend keeping an eye out for a scrapped 160 and try and get the engine, loom, ecu, fobs, alarm and the coils all in one go, that way you can just bolt off one subframe with your old engine and bolt in the 160 one. You could then sell on the 135 engine.

Id really recommend however that you look at selling your 135 ( a few months back id have not agreed with this). Unless your car is already modified with a few bolt ons, or its in exceptional condition it would be far cheaper and easier to just got to a 160.

Otherwise, if your car is already modded, you could ask to go for a spin in a members car thats been remapped. Apparently the difference is striking and comes highly recommended from most members who have had it done by ZandF.

 

You are looking at under £500 to convert the 135 to a 160 VVC including a remap.

No hassle of then taking on a car you do not know the history of which depending on what you have could be good or could possibly mean a better example.

You do need to consider both insurance costs of course, modified 136 vs standard 160 (160 standard is obviously more than a 135 standard).

 

You are looking at under £500 to convert the 135 to a 160 VVC including a remap.

Would that be with one of the mobile mechanics on the forums?

V

 

To be honest, a remap and maybe a decent induction kit may be enough, but I suppose even then I'm looking at about £300.

 

I might just go for a remap, it's not invasive and should give enough of an increase in power for me to notice.

Although there is an MGF head on ebay for about £155.

 

I love the 160, but I got my 135 for £1800 in January this year and it seemed the right car for me at the time.

So far I have had a new cambelt, waterpump fitted, full service. Had the uprated headgasket fitted, stage one headwork, daytona rearbox, decat, 4-2-1 piper manifold, Z&F remap, and i'm fitting 270 piper cams very soon, so should be up there near to 160bhp.

It depends how much you want to spend on your car, I love mine, and think the car is worth it for the mods, but our cars can be moneypits, but I guess you have to draw the line somewhere. I won't be doing any more engine mods, but would like to uprate the brakes next.

 

I have bought a vvc engine loom.

All I need now is a vvc head and a remap.

Is the mgf vvc head the same as the tf vvc head?

 

You don't want to ask that question on here :sofa:

The TF head has tri cut valve seats which give better economy but make no difference to power as is quite often said.

 

i am sure folks have read this, at least anyone who is interested in the throttle body and how it works, but since its topical, i post the link..

http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/throttle_body/index.htm

 

Vamoursly

Film quote of the week

" I'll hit the brakes, he'll fly right by. " Top Gun

 

Depending on your starting point, you should upgrade the brakes to deal with the increased power. I guess you already have ABS, 16" wheels, AP brakes?

Don't do it with standard 135 brake arrangements

 

Yep, already got the 16" wheels and AP brakes.

So, a parts list... correct me if I'm wrong...

VVC Engine Loom
VVC Head
Gasket set
Head bolts
manual tensioner
Timing belt (I've just replaced my timing belt at the weekend, can I use that?)

Once they're fitted, I can sent me ECU away for a remap so it'll be the same as the 160?

 

I bought a complete TF160 subframe, engine, box, drive shafts, hubs, loom, ecu. Immobiliser etc for £600

Surely this has to be the easiest route.. Drop your subframe out.. Swap in a TF160 and then sell yours complete..

 

Nom Nom Nom please stop all this talk of engine transplants it's making me want one :getcoat:

 

Head bolts only need replacing if they are beyond tolerance which isn't that oten unless the head has been off a few times.

 

Owning both a 160 with induction kit and s/s exhaust and a re maped 135 with the rest standard i like the 135 as a road car i just find the power is in the right place
the 160 would be better if i was 20 and not 50

 

Where will it end up though? Its a slippery slope lol

 

I've priced up what I need (roughly).

£28 - Engine loom (already ordered)
£85 - ECU, Alarm and fob (about to order) - This saves me getting a remap and also saves some money (re-map is £200-£250, so a saving of up to £165)
£54 - Head gasket set with bolts
£26 - Tensioner (if I can't use my auto - tensioner)
£150 - £200 VVC head

That's brings the total to between £350-400. Plus a days work for me.

That's not actually a bad price at all providing I can source a good VVC head. Last week I changed the timing belt, tensioner and water pump, so I don't need to replace those.

If anyone has a suitable VVC head spare, drop me a PM.

 

I've ordered a VVC ecu, alarm unit and fob.

For anyone wondering why I'm choosing this route...

Replacing the head etc is a one person job, and I wouldn't need to find somewhere to store a replacement engine. It also looks like it's going to be cheaper than replacing the engine anyway.

If I was to replace the engine, I'd need multiple people really to help me get the sub-frame out, and then you always seem to read about people snapping bolts on the sub-frame and it turning into a nightmare job.

This way, I can set a day aside and be pretty confident that the car will be up and running by the end of the day.

Why am I not part-exchanging my car for a VVC? Simple, I've spent too much money on this car to warrant getting rid, especially since it's only recently had a re-spray, so bodywork is rust free and practically perfect. I've refurbished the alloys too, and done a fair bit of work in getting the car mechanically sound.

I just really need to source a VVC head now.

 

MGBitz for a VVC head? Or try a mobile mechanic

 

be careful on vvc heads and if you buy one ask them to guarantee the the VVC mechs are quite.

 

I put a post in the wanted section and I've had an offer of a VVC head that came up an engine that head bottom end failure. I've asked if the VVC mechs were rattly.

£150 inc delivery.

Fingers crossed that could more or less be the last part I need.

 

VVC mech on the head I've been offered are quiet.

So it looks like that's the head sorted. Just need a gasket set and I think that's everything I need. May need to buy a new timing belt cover but that shouldn't be too difficult.