You probably won’t need to replace the bolt (if it is the problem), it probably just needs a good clean with a wire brush. Take it back to shiny metal, spray it with something like WD40, refit it, then coat the area with Vaseline.

Just as likely to be your problem is dirty battery terminals. Follow the same process as described above and that should see you sorted.

Good luck

 

I've replaced the battery and the negative battery terminal the bolt is the last thing to try. I never had a problem until the battery was disconnected for the new starter motor fitting. I've check all the starter motor and it's all fine.

 

Also should they be a washer on this bolt as there isn't

 

If you have a multimeter, set it to ohms and test between the battery clamp and another conductive part of the body such as a bolt head. The reading should be very low, if the reading is more than few ohms then there could be an issue elsewhere.

 

The only other thing I thought it could be is the alternator. I'll try all this tomorrow if no luck I'll try the alternator

 

Why would you randomly replace the alternator?

Go back and read again the first sentence of your opening post.

Good luck.

 

Hi everyone thanks for your help. This morning before I've cleaned everything up. I've reattached everything. So I'm getting a 12.6v reading from the battery which is fine. I'm getting a 12.6 reading from the negative cable into the body. But I've I put the multimeter reading on the bolt into the body I'm only getting 4v should this be 12v aswell

 

If the engine and body are earthed correctly with 12.6V across the battery terminals then you should have 12.6v between the battery positive terminal and any point on (or connected to) the earthed bodywork or engine

 

Yeah I do apart from the negative cable bolt into the body

 

I'm totally lost now. Cleaned it all up and connected it all getting the right read outs from everywhere but still not enough power to start the car. This all started when I had a new starter motor fitted any suggestions anyone?

Thank you

 

Although new is the battery fully charged? If not, I would stick it on a battery charger before trying again.

 

It's showing 12.45volte so not fully charged I have heard TFS can be temperamental if not fully charged so will try this

 

Connected the battery and 50% charged according to the battery charger. Will see how this goes.

 

Hi everyone I had another battery which was full charged it was better at turning over but still not enough. Could this be related at all to the new starter motor I had? As all the problems started when that was fitted by the garage?

 

Hi everyone so I had a new starter motor fitted. About 2 days after I went to start the car and there wasn't enough power to start then 5 minutes later it started first time. It did this a couple of more times. The one day I drove it went back 20 minutes later and it was completely dead. I got it going and it did this again. I thought it was the earth cables so cleaned them all but now the car turns over but doesnt fire. Battery is fully charged. Could this be related to the new starter?

 

If the car turns over it is not a starter issue. However; your starter issues you mention would likely to be the cable to the solenoid which has has a female spade connector to connect to the male connector on the solenoid. This connection does tend to be temperamental, usually just closing the gaps on the female connector to make it have better contact on the solenoid connector is enough to sort it out, but as you now say the engine turns over but does not start would indicate a different problem. All I can suggest at this stage is for you to turn on the ignition and listen to see if you can hear the fuel pump prime, if you cannot hear that occur it maybe the fuel pump is dead/no power

 

Thank you. The fuel pump does prime. The starter turns over but not enough power to start the car even with a full battery. This started soon as the starter was changed and it's just got worse

 

Read this post after replying to your other post. If these issues have only started since you had the starter changed by a garage I think you should get the garage to check their work.....unless you saw a new starter being fitted out of a box you don't know if a fitted a recon or a new one. Plus new or recon can always be faulty

 

Why was the starter motor changed in the first place?

 

See my reply in your other post, I'd suggest going back to the garage which fitted it...could be a lazy starter motor

 

I've merged the two threads as it could become confusing as I think this is effectively the same problem.

 

It was a brand new starter motor that I supplied. The starter motor was changed as it seized one day and wouldn't even turn over. A local mechanic managed to unseize it and the car was running perfectly until it went to the garage 2 weeks later.

 

I agree with dert, you should be taking the car back to the garage that fitted the new starter. It is possibly a dodgy connection but never the repair should last longer than two weeks.

 

Did you or the garage check the amount of teeth on the starter were the same? there are 10 teeth and 12 teeth with the one having a bigger cog...could be a wrong one fitted which may cause slow turn over as it is forced into place??

 

Yeah the starter was right. But it has started some of the time first time. To me its more like a connection problem. If the starter had a bad connection would the lights dim slightly when turning over?

 

I'd get the garage to check the cable connections on the starter motor, could be they didn't do the nuts up tight and are loose, could be there is a short in the circuit, especially of lights are dimming. A fully charged good battery shouldn't have the dash lights dim when turning over...maybe dip beam, but then, never tried turning my Tf or F over with the lights one so don't really know