Sounds like you've checked the obvious stuff, but symptoms really point to some "interefrence" between the handle mechanism and locking mechanism.

Is the complete door handle assembly moving, even very slightly, causing the lock barrel to move and initiate locking sequence ?

Only other thing I can think of is grease rods where they run in the little guides and grease the door lock itself.


Regarding fob, all I can suggest is get a new battery in it and keep pressing unlock button whilst pointing the fob where the 5AS unti is located. Hopefully that'll sync them together, but sometimes the fobs lose sync and won't re-sync for any apparent reason.

 

the handle doesn't move, except where it's supposed to.

Ummmmm, where is the 5AS unit?

 

I still think it is a micro-switch problem, as that is the thing that sends the lock/unlock signal to the alarm/central locking ecu. It might not be positioned correctly such that it is always sending a lock command signal to the central locking ecu.

For the fob, check the battery and the battery contacts as sometimes they loose their springiness and you have to bend them back so that they contact the battery.

 

It's deffinately not the microswitch, still does it with the switch removed completely.

Regarding the fob, I think wires may be crossed here. The fob will lock and unlock the car, just the hazard lights stopped flashing.

 

5AS unit; driver's side of the car in the boot just behind line of rear seats.

 

Let's put this problem in correct perspective here.

First I would like to point that alarm box for RF R600 is not 5AS model, just not to think that you can use same one from R200/25 R400/45 or MG models. It is different model.

As I can read from your posts microswitch is ruled out as you disconnected it and you still have same problem.

First problem: Since you have problem when you pull you door handle, I would say that you have to look into door internal metal links. I think that door handle is catching some internal metal links and thus making the door to close, as like you are closing it from inside the car by the button on the door.

Second problem: Fob not flashing would indicate that one of doors is not closed. I would bet that you have problem with actuator in same drivers door, which is not able to close that door properly, or have some plastic internal rod broken, so when door IS closed, actuator do not provide info that it is closed. You might need to replace door actuator.

However both of these two problems can be corelated. There is possibility that one of metal links inside door slipped from its runners and provides both problems.

In order to see what is going on and what is moving what, I would take door card off, sit in the car and watch metal links and door handle movements, while somebody else is pulling door handle from outside.

 

Also alarm leds not flashing on the door cards could be due to a faulty door switch, the switch that triggers the alarm when someoene opens the door also it is the same switch that activates the interior light when you open the door.

 

Alarm LEDs flash when locking by key or fob, hazards flash when using key only.

I've had the card off and the wife operating the handle tried to see what was going on but couldn't see much even tried using the video function on my phone.

Think I might have to get the catch/lock bit out and have a look with it off of the car. That'll have to wait until it's less cold and sleety.

 

Decided to replace the latch with a brand new one, then I can investigate the problem at my leisure with the old one.

Will update once I get the new latch fitted and if I find out conclusively what the problem was/is.

 

Part copy from 2/1/14 below http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=605577

- Gut feel it is the barrel/switch 'play' , as I had similar (sorted and has worked fine in last year). I know you stated you had ruled out the microswitch, so my reply might seem illogical. I don't have a fob, however from your description the fob will obviously not be directly turning the barrel. (whereas the key will) I assume you know what it looks like inside. I uploaded a few shots.. I'm sure a new unit will resolve. I threw the old unit away. (both microswitches worked fine, so I assume it must have been 'play' / wear and tear.)


Hi
Some photos if any help
https://plus.google.com/photos/10052...53891254070513
photos 6,14 mainly (switch assembly sits on those 2 lugs) ; the black piece of 'gum' is just to show the small screw and clip, which on mine was rock solid and not the cause. (I had to replace complete barrel as that had worn (too much play) not the micro switch , the alarm wouldn't stop, one day; yours may have just come loose as posted. The micro-switch is probably fine !) You obviously won't need to remove barrel like myself, if it's just the screw that need tightening.

PS re photos : The bright yellow clip is just a door clip that came out/loose

 

Well I have a new door latch, and I'm hopefully going to get to the car on Monday to swap them over.

Think I know roughly what the problem might be now though. Looking at the new latch where the rod for the handle goes is mighty close to where the rod for the door pin goes, so if something got in there or it went out of alignment, looking at the movement the pulling the door handle up would also push the door pin down.

Hopefully will find out Monday. Just got to find my Haynes manual to work out how to get the latch out.

 

Latch is quite straightforward to remove and refit. There is a grommet/plastic insert (about 1" dia) on internal door skin (there was on mine) I missed first time to allow easy access for socket extension. I couldn't see much wrong with mine, however new item sorted. IIRC it took about 15 mins tops to get out. About same to reinstall.

 

I thought it was just the three screws in the rear of the door plus the 10mm for the window channel. Then a case of wiggling it out.

Where's this grommet and what should I be looking for behind it?

 

I must be mis-understanding.. I never took 10mm window channel out ? On the above top right IIRc there's a hole under tape to align with the key barrel ? (I had assumed you are removing key barrel, switch assembly and handle). Maybe there a number of ways to get at it then. The rod IIRC just clips into the plastic connector.

 

Crossed wires obviously. I'm changing the latch not the handle/lock.

 

Changed the latch and the problems regarding the handle locking the car are sorted. There was a small screw in the latch mechanism looked like a hard drive screw that was causing interference.

The fob still locks and unlocks the car but still not indicators using the fob. The indicators still work when locking and unlocking by key though.

 

I am glad that you managed to sort door handle problem.

The fob still locks and unlocks the car but still not indicators using the fob. The indicators still work when locking and unlocking by key though.

As I said , you might have problem with drivers door actuator, or something around it.
When you use fob, actuator is locking the door. When you use the key, it triggers closing the door in another way.
Actuator provides info to alarm that door is closed. In your cae actuator might close the door, but might not provide info that door is closed, while when you use the key this info is properly provided.

 

Actuator? Would that be the central locking motor thingy?

If so that's been replaced with the latch.

If not where would I find it?

 

Actuator is number 8 on this page: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003961

 

Yep that's been replaced I got number 7 the complete latch assembly.

Tbh I'm not too worried about the fobs. I'll just use the key. Although with regards to the fobs the only thing that they don't do is the indicator flash. The red led still flashes and the doors still lock and unlock.

 

Do the indicators flash when you use the key?

 

Yep every time, locking or unlocking they flash with the key.

I'm kinda thinking maybe a loose wire from the alarm system somewhere.

 

I am intrigued with this problem of non flashing hazards when using fob, but everything else is working. I was looking through diagrams and only conclusion I can come across is that some internals in alarm box is not triggering line for hazards, but I can not pinpoint why.

Do you know when hazards stoped flashing when using fob? Was there anything else happened in the same time?

 

it had been intermittent for a while. Maybe 6 weeks - 2months. Nothing else played up at the same time as far as I can remember.

The door latch issue started about a week - 10 days after the hazards stopped flashing while using the fob completely.

It's a P reg car with the later style fat key and two button fob.

but I agree it's quite puzzling especially as the key flashes the indicators every time.

 

Did you have any water in the boot 6 weeks ago?

Did you have any problems around handbrake between seats?

 

No water in the boot. Did have to adjust the handbrake though.

 

Tell me, does all doors operate interior light as they should? Meaning light is on when you open each door and off when closed? Same should be with dashboard open door light?

Does your boot dashboard light operates as should along with boot light inside booth?

 

Yep all doors work the interior light, the boot light and warning works too