What year is the car?

My thoughts would lean towards a MAP sensor or Crank sensor fault.

 

Do you have any fault codes?

If you have an OBD reader or know of someone nearby that does its always worth a check.

Fuel system is the first place I would have gone to too.

 

assumed it might be a fuelling problem thats why I changed thye injector system to eliminate leak back from an injector or manifold gasket fault/ injector/ pressure regulator/ fuel rail blockage fault. haven`t got access to code reader yet so was just looking for suggestions as to other areas to check, its a 1996 model R reg Thanks

 

ttt

what regulates the fuel pump is it flow switch ?

 

what regulates the fuel pump is it flow switch ?

ECU runs the pump all the time (Gets a go signal from crank position sensor as crank rotates). The Press regulator only trims the fuel pressure WRT vacume in the the inlet manifold. As vac increases fuel press is reduced by passing fuel back to tank. Think thats about right.

Have you looked at the TPS?

If the TP sensor signal is missing the vehicle will
continue to run but may suffer from poor idle control
and throttle response. The ECM will store fault
codes which can be retrieved using TestBook.

 

Checked tps, pulled the plug on it & car idles faster still get same problem of engine cutting out then difficult to start when throttle is pressed quickly i am assuming that my tps is ok because it makes no differance to the problem if it is plugged in or not. Somebody mentioned that if the fuel pressure drops to low the ecu will cut the engine as a safety feature. Alaso getting a big smell of sulphur when cranking the engine I assume this is un spent fuel being converted by the cat & plugs are wet when I inspected them so must be fuelling???????? doing my nut in now, might just have to scrap it

 

does an mgf have injectors? i ask that because found this while considering your symptoms, you are getting overfuelling.. ive never had to delve into the fuelling system so i am just as clueless as you Norks right now..
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=211139

 

does an mgf have injectors? i ask that because found this while considering your symptoms, you are getting overfuelling.. ive never had to delve into the fuelling system so i am just as clueless as you Norks right now..
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=211139

1.8MPi = Multi Point Injection... yes... does have injectors.

 

OK, so if an injector is not working as it should, then a symptom might be its overfuelling and the plugs will get wet, the car will stall, etc etc.. and restarting gives a little time for fuel to evaporate, but if the engine is cold, the ecu will richen the mixture, using the temp sensor.. and so, the problem reoccurs.. the plugs never get clean.. and the fault compounds itself.. only when the revs are high does the mixture lean out enough for the engine to run more normally.. also, the oxygen sensor in the exhaust is going to be giving real crap info to the ecu.. the mixture is rich.. and the ecu is trying to compensate...

?

an injector fault will cause that.. even when the faulty injector or fault in the inlet manifold is found.. and sorted.. it might take a journey for the oxygen sensor and exhaust to get clean..


if you have changed the injectors, as i see from your post... was it a new set? are you sure the gasket seals are good.. ? if all the sensors are working properly, and you are sure the injectors are, and the manifold is A1, that the carb is working ok.. that there is not a dead cat in the air intake,.... is the lambda sensor ok, its wiring not broken ....then its ECU? I understand that the ECU can be set back to zero as if it was starting from scratch..

ie.. if the injectors are being told to put more fuel in.. they will.. if you cant see that its an injector or carb fault ( air intake) then the ECU is giving wrong info?

 

Thanks for the replies, had the obd codes read today, nothing came up, all sensors appear to operating ok lambda, o2 , tps etc. I changed the complete injector system with a second hand one, but I am still getting the same symptons so i am assuming it is not that what was causing the problem in the first place because it would be very unusual to have both with the exact same problem, i have gotten hold of a different fuel pump so i am going to change that just to eliminate it from the equation.. Had it running this evening for 40 mins rechecked ignition leads spark plugs etc all ok!!. It revved full range when throttle opened slowly, dead spot as soon as throttle opened quickly, then wouldn`t start again. still scratching my head LOL !!!!

 

Is it possibly dizzy cap or rotor arm?

 

To me, that's a symptom of a duff TPS.

 

Can you check you manifold vacume at idle this will give some good information should be around 20 at idle

 

This isn't anywhere as technical a response as those above, but... How often do you use the car and how old is the battery?

Only reason I ask is that I had the same problem a few weeks ago, hadn't used the F much and it really struggled to stay running, put it on charge overnight and it was spot on the next day, just a thought

 

I have exactly the same problem on my 98 VVC. Car can take a bit to start up 'sometimes' from cold. Iv i put my food down to rev it hard the engine will cut out, or if not cut out completely, keep going but only as if 1 cylinder is working. On my dash i get the engine bay overheat light coming on, even though it is not over heating. I have checked that thermometer and all is fine. I assumed it is a dodgy coil pack but not got round to changing it yet. WHen the engine is warm i dont ever get this problem. Only in the first 5 mins of driving from start up. Is this simular to your issue?

 

Thanks for the replies again,, Battery is fine because engine cranks on starter for ages when i am trying to start it, TPS as been checked using OBD reader and appears to be functioning correctly because getting increase in % readings & engine will not start when TPS is disconnected. rotor arm & dizzy have been tested & are ok. Somebody as mentioned this is a over fuelling problem just wondering how to sort it out what to check?

 

ordered another TPS today so will give that a go just to eliminate it from the equation, still think it is a fuelling problem scratching my head as what to check next.

 

Fitted another TPS today made no differance, think it is time for the scrap yard DOH!!!!!!

 

anybody got a suggestion whay to check next to solve this problem

 

ttt

still having problems any suggestions, thanks

 

still require suggestions

 

Norks...... remove the CAT from the car (so that all the exhaust gases are exiting from the end of the flexipipe.

I just had this problem tonight, and had all sorts of nasty possibilies going through my mind. Turned out my CAT had collapsed and was blocking the gases escaping properly.... so

slow tickover - struggled
v.slow application of throttle = ok up to a point (lowered over time)
quick application of throttle = instant stall.

Removed the CAT, and it instantly vanished (albeit LOUD).. put on the de-cat I had and took her for a spin, she was fine.