Intake upgrades are considered mostly a waste of money.

You will at best get a few extra hp right at the top end and most likely lose low end torque due to low back pressure from the stock resonator tube.

Cold air intakes are the only solution to show ANY benefit but are usually about £150 - £300 for essentially a silicone pipe. you're paying for the brand and also the initial R&D where they bothered to find out if it actually worked.

To reduce engine bay temps you need to fit scoops as the side vents are virtually useless for ventilation.

You are going to see more benefit from porting and changing the valves and ECU map, and if you can find a cheap VVC head that as well (though you'll need to pay for an inlet cam).

Cone filters sound cool and are great for just enjoying the sound of the engine, but if anything you'll lose power unless it's a good air intake.

The general conclusion is that a performance stock filter gives the best increase in power and response over almost anything else. With scoops you'll definitely reduce engine bay temps...

Personally the actual physics of the airflow works better on stock and you get less crud going into your engine with the stock filter so at best you just want a fancy panel filter.

 

Not an expert, but I guess my 200£ (or more, don't remember) pipercross cold induction, changed nothing (not even the noise or whatever).

 

Interesting points there - as I mentioned, I did read that the best 'upgrade' was to simply go for the better cleaner box from the Trophy with dual air intakes. I'm really not into doing anything majorly mechanical as I don't have the tools, skills nor space to do a great deal - changing the throttle body would probably be as much as I want to do!

I'd also read that the scoop modification really didn't do much for inducing more cold air in - if I find the thread, I'll post it up.

I suppose I was more or less thinking if there was anything simple I could do to the airbox/hose setup prior to installation that would improve things. I don't want to spend a fortune if it will be fruitless. As it stands, I will be about £100 in for the Trophy box, 52mm TB and a performance filter - somewhat better than a few hundred on a cone filter type setup.

 

somthing like this to wrap around the pipe
Insulation and Heat Resistant Materials

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Aluminized+Glass+Cloth&_sacat=0

 

5m High Heat Insulation Fiberglass Wrap Exhaust Header Pipe Tape Cloth Silver | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-Cool-Tape-Thermal-Insulating-Heat-Barrier-1-1-2-x-30-ft-Roll-High-Temp-1-5-/302166275148 From the states but you could look for a uk seller.

Also - French homes can recoup heat from the chimney by feeding flexible insulated ventilation pipe to vents around the house, it can double up for air con in the summer. It may work for cars? It must be aluminium not h.i.p.s, pvc or other plastics. Lots of this type of ducting are not suitable.
https://www.bhfunlimited.co.uk/product/100mm-by-10m-long-insulated-ducting-for-heat-recovery-ventilation/

Maybe aswell as keeping the airbox duct from getting warm, why not keep the other things that get warm shielded?

Here is an advert/article on heat shielding an engine bay.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1401-project-single-turbo/

 

I agree with previous posts - the TF air filter box works as well or better than anything. I fitted a Pipercross element to my TF 135 and that did make a noticeable difference to it.

Insulating the intake duct may have a minor impact - keeping heat out will work to some extent. At least it won't cost very much if you do it yourself and you won't lose too much by trying.

Mark

:smile:

 

in short no:|

 

If you stop to think about it, the amount of time it takes for a given volume of air to pass through the hose from point A to B, it is unlikely to absorb any significant amount of heat in that time/distance.

If we were talking about high performance, highly tuned engines then every degree of air temperature probably counts, but not on our cars...

Your car, your decision.

 

Air filters.

On my 115TF I want the best filtration for when I am in France. The single lane roads get very dusty over the summer with lots of muck from Thierry and Marc the local farmers. They are legally bound to swill them off, but do not do it as often as I would like.

The oem filter offers the best filtration efficiency. However it also restricts air flow in comparison to sports aftermarket filters.

I have had various air filters over the years. The most air flow was from a stainless steel pancake filter on my 1976 mini. I wouldn't dream of that for a road going TF.

So sticking with the TF airbox there are two types of panel filter material. Foam and cotton.
Foam lets more air through, the cotton type filters better.

ITG, Pipercross, Green, K n N are common makes.

If the TF airbox was even bigger still, it would allow more filtered air through. (this would be a custom design though)

So which filter offers the best air flow combined with best filtration?

J1 automotive have an air filter test rig. This was used to complete a panel filter comparison on a small hot hatch. results below. Test May 2012.

The jetex 4 layer cotton gauze filter is similar to a pipercross in airflow testing. It is cotton - so good filtration efficiency with 99% filtration - 2.8 microns. An ITG foam filter offers between 75% to 80% filtration efficiency.

Jetex Performance Exhausts - Suppliers of Sports Exhaust Systems, Custom Exhaust Parts, Sports Catalytic Converters and Replacement Aftermarket Catalytic Converters, Air Filters and Induction Kits

£35+vat and delivery. £49. I think you have to wait for them to be made up as well, about a week or so.

 

not to go too far off topic, I am planing on taking out my air filter box on my 115 TF not sure if part of it is screwed to the bracket or if its just held in by two grommets

looking down on to it, I can see the one at the front

is it a case of just tugging it towards the engine till it pops out of the grommets?

I can’t see the back one, I’m not sure if the breather pipe is also held in place by any screws or a grommet too, help in taking it out would be very much appreciated

 

Mine looked like that. The bit the arrow is pointing at is where the airbox connects to the airbox frame/bracket.
To remove the whole air box.
1)Engine panel off.
2)Undo the top part of the airbox by unclipping it.
3)Move it out of the way or disconnect from the rubber hose taking air to the throttle.
4)Remove the orange oem air filter from inside the box.
5) Slide the hoses/ducting off (the front one you will not have on a 115tf) the back one will just twissle off - the rear duct is a sort of thick webbing material and has a type of screw thread formed in to it. You may have to undo a screw for the plastic inner pipe and there could be one right at the bottom. Mine did not have the screws in the side to attach it to the bracket so it lifted straight off. If yours has screws undo and lift out. I think there is meant to be another plastic fitting which pushes on to the lug your red arrow points at. They get lost very easily and did not arrive when I bought a replacement airbox. Overall an easy task. No need to touch the airbox bracket.
The hardest part is removing the rubber hose. It is a special type of jubilee clip with a special tool needed. You could replace it with an equivalent normal type jubilee clip of the correct diameter.

 

There are four clips. You need to remove the access panel under the roof.

You then need to take off the rubber hose and slide it off to the right.

Then just reverse the process.

The air filter can't really be removed without taking off the access panel first.

 

thank you for the very informative instructions, batoutofhll, your instruction made it very easy for me to follow

as everything was off bar the box and the air pipe, I un screwed the screw holding down the horn bit that intrudes in to the air box from the air pipe, and the box was out in 20 seconds, I found the end of the breather air pipe was held down at the end with a cable tie, so a quick snip and out came the air pipe

I’ve read elsewhere that some have the opinion that the horn bit that intrudes in the air box from the air pipe restricts air hitting the filter, would I be better off cutting this off allowing more surface aria of the filter to be used or was there a good reason for Rover fitting this in the air box? after all Rover were on a cost cutting and my thoughts are if it wasn’t needed Rover would of took it off

so any opinions most welcome

 

Firstly I'd not thought of using a cable tie to hold the hose in place instead of a jubilee clip. I'm still on the oem clip.

Regarding the inner plastic pipe. The only evidence I have to go on is - when I changed a very dirty filter the muck was over nearly all the surface of the filter except for where the pipe touched the filter. This was only a thin line though about a couple of cm wide. With that in mind air must be getting through the whole filter. If you cut the pipe maybe there will be a gain?(I do not know) I have read about cutting down the pipe, even drilling holes in it or cutting it length ways. Personally as my tf is a 115 and the air intake was from one rear hose only that goes to the plastic inner pipe. The distribution of muck on the filter therefore distribution of air through the filter was pretty much over the whole surface.
Another point to consider is with a second front pipe added the air will be from two sources.
The last point - the pipe is located in the centre of the air box. That seams like a good place to take your air. I will not be cutting my inner pipe down, drilling holes or other such activities. I might give it a polish and talk to it nicely, like the rest of the car.

 

Thanks for all the replies and info, very informative - thank you all.
@batoutofhull - that graph you posted.....does that mean K&N are the worst of the test and Powertec the best? - wasn't sure how to interpret it correctly.

I did find a UK based seller for some aluminium covered fibreglass tape - still not sure if I will bother with it. As mentioned, I was somewhat aware that the air would not remain in the hose for a long time, hence not getting that hot anyway. I'm also aware that minimal gain is really only beneficial in super-performance cars for race etc.

Still, all good info and very welcomed.

 

Steve I discounted the powertec as it was a stainless steel filter. Its like a night club without bouncers.
Lets everything in.
I can't find a panel filter by k'n'n anymore.

I want the best filtration first. If there is an airflow increase that is a benefit. I did order a jetex filter. They have to have them made up, they are not a stock item. The customer service seems pretty good and they understand that a 115tf needs the bigger filter. I've read all the hype. I would not have thought there is a lot in it between any of the filters really. OEM filtration 99.75%. jetex 99%. thats good enough for me. I have not fitted it yet. So need to check the seal. Saying that the last oem filter I had was a poor fit.
I'm not aiming for extra power. I want better fuel economy.

As for tape to stop hot air. Hmmm... maybe if I didn't post for a while and used tape over my trap - there would be a distinct reduction of hot air. (leaving myself wide open I guess). :ziplip:

 

Tests have been done and most of the results for aftermarket air upgrades to the F are favourable, not a waste of time as some are saying.

Rolling road results for panel and cone filters

 

I always enjoy reading these threads on F/TF air intakes, as it seems to be a mod that most of you are happy to try at some point so always lots of opinions coming forward, especially as space seems to be limited, and intake tubes always come under consideration.

I like a good K&N panel filter and usually find smoother running on Rover's I've had, but see little gain, so am not surprised when owners report they prefer original filters in the cramped engine bays you guys have to deal with.

I have used K&N cones for small 6-8 bhp increases and big noises when I had my 400 with great throttle response. Although that was fitted with a Cold Air Intake, I can see the need for a more enclosed unit in your T/TFs, like the 57i.

Just enjoyed reading the Rolling Road Results;

Tests have been done and most of the results for aftermarket air upgrades to the F are favourable, not a waste of time as some are saying.

Rolling road results for panel and cone filters

..and this has finally spurred me on to replace the K&N Panel Filter in my 800, with the new filter box I've had waiting for the past 4/5 years! So will fit this year definate!
I already have a Cold Air Feed, but am choosing to stay with panel box over an enclosed cone system as the area of the panel in my case is 4x the size of my normal one, so as big if not bigger than the filter surface area provided by the enclosed & universal cones on offer for my car.

As to trying to mask off additional heat, I would not bother, but the best way I have seen has been simple to mount a sheet of aluminium between filter box and rest of the bay, although I am not sure if you would have room for one.

 

MM... reading hear and there, my VVC should be a monster.

 

while maybe the one you show could be used to hold down the end trumpet part of the air hose, the cable tie holding it down to the cross bar was one very similar to this cable tie

the one you show I got hold of some of them of varying sizes from my local scrape off some mid 90’s Rovers, and come in very handy,

I used one to re attach the flex tube pipe between the TB and filter box (after I swapped over the 48mm to a 52mmTB) as there was no way I could re fit that ali thing that looks like a jubilee clip but without any means of tightening it without special tools, could of used a large jubilee clip but this is very convenient to take off and on with no tools

 

Yep, Molly I think that is another thing I need to have in stock. Thanks for posting the insitu photo.

 

Might sound 6-8 horses more though.

Anyway this thread was suppose to be about insulating the air intake.
Which of course is pointless.
And why?
Well if you are moving at any sort of speed in this country, and I mean above 10mph or so in fact probably less you are going to be drawing in or introducing in with suitable side scoop mods enough cool air, that by the time it gets to the air filter it has not had enough time to have any detrimental effect.

And if your stood stationary or crawling in a traffic jam, do you really need to worry about the temp of your intake air temp?:x

 

The point is: you can't do better the ambient temperature, whatever country you are in.


For the rings to hold the various hoses: you can buy SS detention rings, reusable, for pennies....

 

Experiments with my ZS180's showed that the best way to keep inlet temperatures down is to relocate the filter to the coolest place possible (the MGF filter is already there) AND to make sure that the incoming air is as cool as possible by drawing air from outside the engine bay.

 

The O/E clips on the throttle body are single use designed for quick fitting in the factory, the cable ties used to hold the pre airfilter hoses in place are flimsy as they don't have to have much strength, they can be broken by hand.

 

Polite coughing. 'A Hrm'

Insulation needed??

 

Might as well add my stock reply to these threads! I did the cool air feed some years ago and I'm perfectly happy with the results of that and a couple of additional mods, one to the throttle body and the other to help the air out of the filter housing. I did think about insulation, but like some of the other replies I decided that the air wasn't in the duct long enough to bother. My biggest expense was the pipercross filter - no need to pay for branded packages!