Why are you changing the charcoal canister?

 

it came up as a fault on a diagnostic and knocks like crazy. most searches on here say just change it and seeing as how the new one was so cheap i figured it i may as well swap them over!

 

It's not the charcoal canister it's the purge valve on top that knocks and most of them do it.
Just isolate it from the bulkhead and you won't hear the knocking.

 

Yeah, they can rattle. Just pop it on & go!

 

How do you remove these ?

 

Remove what?

 

Sorry - i mean. How to do you remove the carbon canister and what do you need to seal off, remove etc.... if you want to keep it off the car.

(Its a rally car, so no need for it!)

 

The charcoal canister in itself should possibly last the life of the car.

 

Why remove the charcoal canister? Every MG rally or track car i've built uses them, just a smaller/lighter metal equivalent.

Without it your fuel economy will go down and more importantly the car will smell of fumes all the time. I expect you haven't ever driven a hot rally car / track car for miles on end when its "fumey". You start to feel pretty sick after the first mile or so.

 

Basically to remove weight the rally car is in a limited mod formula, so i need to loose as much weight as possible.

It only absorbs the fumes from the tank, to stop them venting to the atmosphere, and feeding them to the engine at certain engine speeds/throttle positions.

My thoughts are to remove it all and vent the tank to the atmosphere

Saves weight and one less thing to go wrong.

 

Cripes it weighs all of a bag of bonbons, hardly worth removing for weight saving.

 

Exactly what Ashy said.

I've built countless ZR rally cars in the past. And there's an extent you can strip a car, then when you go past that it becomes pointless. You're doing this.

If you're that serious about weight, change to S class and then you can do things such as perspex windows, fibreglass boot + bonnet (which are readily avalible for the ZR), cutting out the insides of doors etc.

 

Chisling off the soundproofing off the floor pan is worth doing, takes ages but it sheds a fair bit !!!

 

It does remove a fair amount of weight, but not as much as people expect. The reason it should be stripped in all rally cars (and if they're scrutineered properly it would have to be else they would fail), is due to it being rather flammable. Thus it's not allowed in the car the same as the interior.

I think fully removing all the sound-tar and foam in the doors/quarter panels you save just shy of 2KG. Which in reality if the driver and co-driver took a "large dump" before a rally would save the equivalent hahahaha

 

removing all the sound-tar and foam in the doors/quarter panels you save just shy of 2KG. Which in reality if the driver and co-driver took a "large dump" before a rally would save the equivalent hahahaha

Is that a technical mesurement lol ???

 

Back when I was building Rally-cars the main technical measurements we used were how many Sugars the Tea had








In all seriousness before anyone doesn't take sarcasm, yes all the cars were built correctly, using specific measurements etc.

 

Back when I was building Rally-cars all the cars were built correctly, using big hammers.

Now thats craftsmanship how it should be !!!

 

Hahaha, edited for truth?

Nooo, my 200 however. Most of the work done on that was with copious amounts of tigerseal and pry bars .

 

Better than Chewing Gum and Cable Ties !!!