MG-Rover.org Forums banner

Central locking not working

6.5K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  terminus  
#1 ·
My tailgate loom is now repaired and lights, lock, demister and rear wiper all work.

However the central locking still doesn't work. It will lock and make grinding machine gun noises from either or both doors but won't unlock with the fob, the lights flash and imoboliser activate but the driver's door has to be opened manually.

What should I check for this and in what order? Wiring loom I'm happy with and the C/L fuse isn't blown. I've wondered if the battery could be on the way out?
 
#2 ·
It's possible that the 5AS has been damaged.

Take the unit out and inspect the board or stick a multimeter set to DC volts on the Orange and Pink central locking supply wires. When locked the meter should show +12 volts and -12 volts when unlocked, or vice versa.

If there is no voltage on unlock then it's a 5AS problem.
 
#3 ·
Ok thanks I tried to get to the 5AS to inspect but couldn't workout how to get it out, it looks like its been riveted in (photo attached)

I also tried to get a look at the driver's side lock but couldn't see much, I recorded a video of the sound anyway. More like a sewing machine clicking from either or both doors, then 1-2 clicks from the dash:

http://tinypic.com/r/2yzevt3/5
Image
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Determined to get everything fixed or at least thoroughly investigated today, I'll PM you and update thread.

I believe you have to drill out the rivets- post another thread asking how to remove and no doubt you will get a response or two.
Good luck
Thanks but I don't have a metal drill, but looks like I hopefully won't need to: http://bakingbeats.blogspot.co.uk/p/mg-zr160.html

I'll avoid making yet another thread until I've tried again
 
#7 ·
Ok it was the 5AS which has burnt out. Is the fix as simple as it looks putting a bit of wire or solder between the two existing joints as in the attached?

Getting the 5AS out only took 5 minutes in the end, I won't post in here because of potential security issues...
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Ok it was the 5AS which has burnt out. Is the fix as simple as it looks putting a bit of wire or solder between the two existing joints as in the attached?
Yes, I would keep the section of wire as close to the board as possible though and solder the wire to the copper track as well as the joint.... this circuit track carries a high current.

Solder cannot be used, it has to be a piece of heavy gauge wire.
 
#10 ·
Repair was easy enough although not as neat as I liked but popped it in and the central locking worked straight away.

However now the alarm keeps going off -_-

I started up and drove a little bit to my house since I'd 'imbolised' it up the road to work on away from traffic, when I stopped I tested the alarm by locking with the fob while in the car. On unlocking the door latch manually and the alarm went off, but it wouldn't stop with either fob button or even when I started the engine, it just waited about 1 minute and stopped but the hazards kept going. Then it went off again (car unlocked) and continued doing this for a while so I took out the 5AS again and it still did it, put the 5AS back in and locked the car manually which locked the central locking, alarm hasn't gone off since.

As the neighbours wont be happy I'm leaving playing with it for tonight but for tomorrow do I need to resync the key fob? In the panic while the alarm was going off on the last one I did 3 long holds of the unlock button as I vaguely remembered that did something and the alarm stopped but it could have been a coincidence...