fronts, rears?

If its the front there held on with 2 screws, so no, the rears im not too sure of, but i think there the same.

 

Nothing but a socket set/suitable spanners and large tipped philips type screwdriver

To remove, calliper and carrier removed from suspension knuckle, two large screws undone on the disc as Stew says, and away ya go! (if the screws are tight, give the area where they sit a good malleting, don't hit the studs as you may knock them out, not a problem if you do though. If that doesn't help, use a screw driver bit and give it a few taps with a hammer, watch the fingers! an impact driver is far preferable though). Just remember to tie the calliper up out of the way so it doesn't A, stress the flexible hose, and B, get in the way and annoy you! When you refit everything, wire brush any debris or corrosion off the hub, particularly where the disc inner face mates to the hub.

Oh and a mallet to give the disc a biffing with once the two retaining screws are removed, corrosion sometimes 'welds' the disc to the hub, a few mallet blows will release it though, if necessary!

 

thanx alot guys.....i was under the impression i needed a large torx or star drive bit....dunno why lol

ordered some new discs and pads which ill be fitting over the weekend at the same time as painting the calipers!

 

Those funny tools are the reserve of foreign cars in my experience, frenchie cars tend to have it and I heardsome fords have a specially sized odd allen key on some brake parts-idk how true the ford thing is tbh!!

Our rovers are nice and simple

 

my screws would not come out of the disc with an impact driver, or any large tipped screwdriver, I ended up having to drill two of them out. the two that did come out we're worn away and rusty at the back ends.

My 40min job turned into 4 hours.

 

1. Remove hand brake
2. Wind back nut under ash tray
3. Loosen the wheel nuts, chock car & jack it up, remove rear wheels.
4. Clean calipers and brake area with brake cleaner.
5. Remove necessary bolts, two hold pads to caliper the other two hold the caliper to the hub, not sure which size.
(Can be quite awkward as the brake hose is in the way I had to put a breaker bar on the end of a socket wrench).
6. Remove grub screws and remove discs.
(I had to drill the grub screws out of the hub on one side, the Phillips head rounded off with one turn of the screw driver. I never expected it to be that soft.)
7. Clean hub apply copper grease to it and fit new discs then clean with white spirits. Could paint NON contact area with Hammerite but must leave to dry.
8. Remove old pads wind piston back into caliper.
(The hardest part, can use a big screw driver or a large file at an angle. I did it but the rubber grommet split and the piston ended up rusting so I had the caliper changed after a couple of months.)
9. Grease and fit new pads, shims and fit to caliper.
(Don't use copper grease on the rubber)
10. Bolt back in position careful not to cross thread the bolts. Can paint caliper to stop rusting but again must leave to dry.
11. Pump foot brake to bring pads up to the disc.
12. Pull back brake cable arm spring to full travel and check seating.
13. Set hand brake one notch and tighten cable under ash tray. When the wheels start to resist turning, drop hand brake and wheels should turn freely.
(Important to do in the correct order or the hand brake won't work.)
14. Fit road wheels
15. Admire, drink tea or other beverage of choice.
16. Test brakes and drive carefully until they bed in.

Fronts I haven't done yet but would be similar but without the brake cable. All in you should start in the morning should be done in no time, quicker when you know what to do and when the components aren't rusted.

Good luck hope it doesn't rain