I bought a GBE valve last week, results are better than a bleed valve (which I had before) as the turbo spools faster, but if you are running std boost then theres no point as the spool time with the original electronic controller is the same.
I think unless you have lots of cash and want to alter spool up times and run on the limit then the electronic ones are good but for the price and value for money and performance gain the GBE is better, plus some people say the mechanical valve is better than the electronic one.

The forged pistons are about £750 for four. I have a 220 turbo so I have the A grade pistons and they are supposed to take 260bhp or more, it depends on the running of the car, the grade B pistons in yours don't take the high boosts and hardlife expect about 230-240bhp max. The most I think that has been extracted out of a t-series turbo is close to 320bhp.

 

Ok, I haven't actually got the 620ti yet, hopefully in the next month, but Im scoping out what I want to do to it.

GBE sounds fine, I just thought that it would be nice to be able to just use the car with standard boost 90% of the time so as not to load the engine so much, and then just flick the switch to OVERBOOST when some little gimp in a Fiesta RS starts revving up at the lights.

I heard that by increasing the boost to 12PSI on the 620, the power would be at around 240BHP from 200 on standard boost. I would like to sort out the breathing (filter / zaust) and ort out some type of front mounted intercooler or water injection. Trouble is I don't want to melt the pistons by going over what they can handle.

I don't suppose you could put 220 pistons into the 620 block? Sure I could find some at a breakers.

 

Leave the car std and still beat the RS boys unless theirs isn't std of course. But having said that the Rovers put the power down better.

The engines aren't that stressed in std tune so alittle more doesn't effect the life of the engine.

I've tried upping the boost to 12psi but mine doesn't like it that much as it cuts the fueling (but not all the time) and even though it is boosting higher doesn't pull as well as say 10psi. I've heard people boosting 12psi but mine just doesn't like it, it'll be ok for a while then I have to turn it back down to 10psi. When at 12 psi it was no where near 240bhp as it was slower than at 10psi as I found out at York dragway. I think the best route is a chip. The ECU has a fuel cut to stop the engine overboosting and can sense when the mixture is too lean (melted pistons) so you'll be safe.

Transfering the pistons? I think it would be easier to swap the engine depending on condition.

 

Yeah I have heard that the fuel cutout is pretty inconsistant, some go at 15-16, some at 10 or anywhere between!

I have heard from lots of different places that 10-12PSI should see you to 240Bhp, maybe thats different with the 220?

Don't think I would chip it until I had changed the pistons, but then why bother spending that much money on a car worth under £2k!

Im just looking for something with more grunt than the calibra. Calibra turbo's are nice but too expensive, and the 4x4 system is unreliable and EXPENSIVE to fix!

I was looking at a turbo timer with boost gauge built in but then I was thinking, surely they bypass all imobilisation of the ignition system to keep the engine running, so maybe it's not a good idea, I'll just have to sit and wait for the engine to cool before I turn it off.

 

I think its more like 14psi for 240bhp.

A mate had a Ti and had it chipped with no probs, and used it on a trackday. I think its only when you start going towards 240+bhp you need to look at the pistons.

I think the turbo timer can work with the immobiliser, but I think they are a bit of overkill, if when you've been racing about or on the motorway if you take it easy for the last few miles before you turn off it will be ok. I put the heater on hot and let it idle for about 30secs before turning off aswell, as the turbo is water and oil cooled. And use a good oil and keep it topped up.

 

My mate Mike had a recorded 236HP from a 220GSi T recently at the PTS rolling road day

He was running 13PSi with big filter, cold air box, custom powerflow, piper cams etc.

its amazing how much difference the extra bits make - He also has an apexi AVCR so he can turn it off for std boost, or use one of 2 preset increased boost settings.

It does take a long while to set the Apexi up though - and even then it can still spike. We have finally got it to the point where it doesnt overboost to the fuel cutoff point - so when its set for 14PSI it doesnt spike above 14.7 !

HTH

Mark

 

216Turbo, Does your m8 have it chipped as I've said previously mine doesn't boost that high as std. The best I got was 208bhp from about 9-10psi.

I thought there wasn't much point in diffrerent cams on a Turbo engine?

 

What about better intercoolers and chargecoolers.

Saw a set for the maestro (same engine??) which will lower the intake temp by over 25'C. That has to add a good bit of power, I know with my calibra that if the temp drops outside from say 20'c to 10'c, the car feels much more powerful.

 

216Turbo, Does your m8 have it chipped as I've said previously mine doesn't boost that high as std. The best I got was 208bhp from about 9-10psi.

I thought there wasn't much point in diffrerent cams on a Turbo engine?

The cams definately made a difference ! - there is much more mid range and the turbo continues to boost well after 5000rpm.
Mikes is not chipped, but has a 1 bar fuel cut off, according to the apexi it will cut at 14.7PSi, - we are going to rebuild the bottom end with forged bits to allow up to 18/20PSi and then he will need to get it chipped to run past 14.7.

Re Intercoolers,

Chris Mann from 200+ has sorted a water/Air Chargecooler that basically takes the place of the pipe to the throttle body. Apparently this is giving good cooling when running high boost.

HTH

Mark

 

What year is Mikes GSi?

Coz just wondering whether this makes a difference, as mine will go no where near 13 or 14 psi. If I do take the boost higher it just chugs and feels like its misfiring. But not consistently!
Could uping the boost put more strain on the coil? As it seems more like a misfire than a fuel cut. I've had it cut before definately and the cut is different as it pops slower and this is more of a faster succession of poping. Hope that is clear to understand.
Also when the boost did go upto 12psi with the occasional cut and chug it definately didn't pull aswell in third as it did on lower boost. As if it was overfuelling as the exhaust and plugs where richer than normal.

If you know anything it would be a great help as its bugging me now hearing people run higher boosts with no props.:cus:

Might try a new coil but they're £64 so if it isn't any better then its a lot to waste.

 

Get one from a breakers?

Could it be the fuel pump or is ther a regulator for the fuel pressure? Maybe one of those Boost Valve things would help, they don't give more power like the nova crew think, but they mean that the extra fuel is there when needed don't they?

 

I've got an FSE fuel reg but that makes it slower when turned up.

 

So is that the problem, did you have this issue before that?

 

What year is Mikes GSi?

Coz just wondering whether this makes a difference, as mine will go no where near 13 or 14 psi. If I do take the boost higher it just chugs and feels like its misfiring. But not consistently!
Could uping the boost put more strain on the coil? As it seems more like a misfire than a fuel cut. Might try a new coil but they're £64 so if it isn't any better then its a lot to waste.

Mikes is a 1995 N reg. He had a lot of problems with a missfire that we just couldnt trace, there were no error codes but it would miss under heavy boost then get progressively worse until we changed the plugs. Then it would be OK for a couple of days, until the cycle repeated itself.

We changed almost everything we could without curing it! Eventually it was traced to a faulty cam sensor ( beats me how it gave those symptoms! ) and is now fine. During this we replaced Dizzy, leads, coil, all temp sensors, lambda sensor, etc so I probably have a spare coil somewhere

HTH

Mark

 

Ahh, That may be the prob as thats what mine does, mess with it turn the boost back up OK for a bit then it missfires again. But never does it under load when the boost is turned down to 10psi which I thought if the coil was going to do it, it would then. I know it should work as I wound the boost right up and it went to 15psi but gave one hell of a kick when it did boost and also when it cut off.

How much is the cam sensor and is it a case of unbolt remove and replace?

Maybe the cam sensor was giving faulty readings and was messing with the timing etc as this is what the sensor is for I think.

JF1980, I've had the FSE for a while so I'm certain its not this.

 

Just phoned my local dealers and its called a Cam injector sensor £27. I'll go in and check it is the right one, they seemed alittle unsure.

 

yup - the sensor is MKF10005 and is £36-09 (+ vat i expect), the wiring that goes from the sensor to the multoplug is MHK10014 and is £26-44 (+ vat again?)

 

Ozzy, Have you had experience of these foulling?

Coz I should get higher boost readings, sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

Expecting to get it today so I'll let you know.

 

Nope - my car runs up to 1.04 bar (showing on HKS) before the MEMs ECU boost cut comes in. Ive not had any problems with misfires at any boost, ranging from 0.5 - 1.04 bar, and no problems with hesitation / stalling etc such as you describe either.

Ozz

 

I've checked with dealer and Ozzy the part no. you quote came up as an injector housing or something. I will check it tomoz.

How many miles has your done Oz, and I pressume its not chipped as the ECU is still cutting.

 

MKF10005 is listed as "Housing - Injection sensor Multi Point Injection", MHK10014 is listed as "sensor - camshaft - multi point injection" - its the right bits trust me Its called the housing because it houses the cams TDC teeth that are in the end of it - but then you prob know that! :doh:

Car is a 1995 M plate, engine is 1998 T16 designed for the 600 Ti - replaced the old one last year as the small ends were shot!

Ozz

 

T16's can quite happily run without a cam sensor, just not to their optimum.

Disconnect it and see - works just fine.

Phil

 

I agree phil.

Si

 

Sorry Ozzy I just made a note of the Housing part no. but they did tell me the other for the sensor so its OK.

Phil the only reason I'm replacing this is to try and cure the missfire, or occasional chug when running higher boost, as pointed out by 216turbo.

But I shall try and disconnect it tonight and see.

Isn't the dizzy right round the back of the engine on the late Ts fitted to the 600. Why is round there?

 

The later 600 T16s have wasted spark igntion, this requires no distributer and the leads actually go to the coil pack located on the rear of the engine/ bulkhead.

HTH

Si