Regarding the exhaust pipes, there does seem to be a need to adjust aftermarket exhausts as they don't always hang right first off. There are two main possibilities - firstly, the exhaust has poorly made tail pipes of different lengths (unlikely) or secondly, it hasn't been adjusted properly.

Now the adjustments are largely in (a) the hanger - there should be an adjustable one on one side which may be adjusted wrongly or need the slots opening out etc and/or (b) the retaining strap. There should be a strap going under the backbox and secured via a worm drive/hose clip type arrangement at a bracket behind the backbox. This bracket is mounted to the cat. When the strap is done up, the backbox and cat should be drawn together.

If the strap is missing, the alignment could suffer (get a 12mm universal cut-to-length strap on t'web, or allegedly Wickes do a wider version, which would be better) or if the back box is not the same size/shape as the original, then alignment will suffer again.

I had this problem on a MGOC S/S exhaust - it was smaller than the original backbox and tightening the strap up pulled the tail pipe in on the o/s. I had to make up a special spacer bracket to take up the gap. See my thread from a few weeks ago on the MGOC S/S standard exhaust if you want to investigate further.

The best way to solve the alignment problems is (IMO) to slack off the three bolts holding the backbox flange to the cat flange (optional, but the right way to go about things IMO), loosen the strap (if present), loosen the adjustable hangar, then prop the backbox up in the correct position with blocks and wedges/whatever, then you will see what needs adjusting to retain that position when you tighten it all back up.

Above all, don't panic!

PS: You may be able to source a secondhand sphere, but I'm a TFer, not an Fer, so dunno. EDIT: Ah I see you were going for secondhand! Have you tried MGFnTFBitz?

As for the doors, the plastic door bushes can disintegrate and are easily replaced.

 

Thanks for the advice, it's raining today so I'll get her up on the ramps tomorrow . I tried MGFnTFBitz who offered to put me at the back of the (long) queue .

I actually want to keep this car for a long time, I'm going to get a garage to give it the once over, if they are sure it's not been pranged then I don't mind pouring in a little cash to keep it on the road, just disappointed as there is no way I'd have paid 3.5k had I known, would have got them down to the right price to factor in the replacements.

 

Sorry to hear about your woes, if it was advertised as no issues and you think it must have been pumped up prior to you taking it then you may have a grievance case, problem is proving it. Did you pay on a credit card as you could have the visa guarantee, I had similar issues with mine as I was hoping all the work would corrected on an MOT, no such luck bald tyres and a blowing exhaust are still a pass. I hope you get it sorted

 

'Bald tyres and a blowing exhaust are still a pass' - really????

 

Thanks, just needed to vent a little!

On the MOT... no advisories other than a worn ball joint (that in fairness the seller replaced straight away, another thing that made me think this was all legit, I could see that had been done).

The thing is when the tyres were changed this weekend the OS Rear (passenger side) was very worn on the inside, I'd argue that should have been an MOT fail. Nearly no tread on it. This also tells me that the camber was wrong for a long time (i.e. the thing you change on MGFs via hydragas adjustments, or a wear pattern conducive to a leaking sphere...).

The front subframe was also recently painted, not sure if that's another red flag or not. Seems strange that's all that's been done, I'd have done the lot!
I paid in cash unfortunately. Buyer beware and all that. Thinking I might just bite the bullet and buy the Australian kit. As I see it the best case would be (replacing the Hydragas sphere) :
120 for the Sphere, most likely 200 as that's all that's available now, & no idea if it works.
100 fitting (guess)
60 re-pump

=360 - 400?

As total chance would have it my sister's friend is flying over from AUS in a couple of weeks, I'm supposed to be doing the photography for her UK wedding. Perhaps I can get them over in her suitcase or pay for an extra bag! That would save me £400 on the AUS kit, or about £800-850 total. Only £500 more than sorting the sphere. I could just buy a 50 quid pump from eBay and a 12 quid bottle of fluid to keep me going till then!

 

It's a shame you feel swindled, but you have to remember you bought a 14 year old car. It's not so long ago that cars that age were already on the scrap heap!

Trophy 160s command a higher price but are not necessarily the best buy. I went for a TF 160 LE because I specifically wanted to avoid the hydrogas problem which is more of an issue with the Trophy due to the sphere scarcity. That said I knew my then 7-year old car needed work and it's still in bits now due to other personal issues taking higher priority. My TF 120 still performs well and I have owned that 9 years and have had little trouble for an MG!

 

Yeah I'd agree with you, it was more a heart over head purchase - I had a Red Trophy 160 before (don't ask what happened to it) .

As an aside I'm getting some squirming on the motorway, that's the next challenge.. hopefully just the suspension playing up!

 

Why don't you contact the previous owner and tell them the story.

You never know what he/she might say or offer....

 

Yeah, I think I will, in a nice way tho. It could be they never knew, just would be a very strange thing to miss!

 

Well I guess you may have been seen off on the hydragas spheres, it's not for me to say. As for the door, well you saw that at the time. Regarding the wear on the rear tyre, you should have spotted that when you inspected it! See the thread farmer boy started the day before yesterday about selling the three TFs he renovated and I list wear to tyres as a thing to look out for when inspecting a car for purchase.

Still, as Tippermg says, these are old cars now and need a bit of money spent on them. We're all in the same boat to a certain extent. I'm saving up for Bilsteins shocks on my TF, £150 a corner, even fitting them myself, to improve the teeth-chattering ride I get on rough roads.

With respect to the front subframe, I derusted and painted mine last year and there was quite a gap between doing the rear and then the front, as it was such an a~#e of a job to do in situ. I see yours has had the front done, well that's the easy one to do, so not a surprise really.

Generally the rust on the subframes is still at the surface rust stage for cars that age, but a close inspection and a bit of a tap-tap here and there along the surfaces of the front subframe should clue you up as to the state of them. Look at the front wishbones while you're down there, they rust out in the middle if you don't get to them in time!

The squirming could be a lot of things, bearings, tyres, bushes, alignment, or even just the high winds we've had these last few days - mine has been wandering a bit at times too. Your tyres can't be scrubbed in properly yet either.

Grit your teeth and deal with one thing at a time.

 

Thanks that's the plan, one thing at a time, logical order to it all. The final stage will be detailing to get the paint looking new & reconditioning/repainting the callipers . If the garage can confirm to me these are just niggles & there aren't any serious issues then there's a lot I plan to do to the car!

As for the tyres I didn't pay them as close attention as I otherwise might - I knew straight away they would be replaced - 3 different brands of tyres on an MGF... no way.

 

i sympathise, there is no easy answer, hydragas is a unique entropy, its final disorder is unsolvable.. , Why, because it needs redesign.. it needs input..

in effect Hydragas is a glorified double action shock absorber.. it has gas, and hydraulic fluid and a bias return valve... all in one hidden mechanism.. and that is its flaw.. its hidden.. its not serviceable.. one cant restore the unit without taking it completely apart.. one cannot replace the seals.., one cannot replace the valve.. one cannot replace the gas..

but that doesnt mean it cant be made good.. what it means is it needs more input.. from design..

That doesnt help you this mo..

It doesnt help me..

anyone using the hydragas suspension lives on borrowed time..

 

Yep, you've got yourself a little project ;0)

Here's a little light reading on the door problem to get yourself clued up:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=575505&highlight=door+bushes

See also CJJs How To on door hinge bush replacement which is linked to in one of the posts in the above thread.

 

Reading your posts I am surprised that the advert contained the following "STUNNING CONDITION AND WE USED TO SHOW IT AT MG CAR SHOWS".

Hope that you can get it sorted

 

The tailpipes on the MS exhaust are removable you can slacken the clamps on the end & slide them in or out to your hearts content so that's one problem easily cured?

 

We too have a Solar Red Trophy 160. I had quite a bit of work done on ours, but so far, the spheres have held up well.

If they ever failed, I too would order the Australian shocks and springs.

After reading your post, it does seen that on the face of it, the sellers were less than honest regarding the description...

 

did you get a HPI check done?

 

Unless someone starts making hydrogas spheres every MGF owner will eventually be faced with a)MGTF coil over conversion b) suplex of the Oz kit conversion c) scrapping the car

Personally I'm looking for an air bag solution.. To give me adjustable ride height.. On the move

Air Ride UK are interested in developing this as a kit for MGF owners.. But it's unlikely to be available as a 'bolt on' any time soon.. As before the. There is design/development/construction/testing

I've already bought an MGF to lend them to assist this process

In the short term.. How about a pair of standard rear spheres and lowering pins?

 

Is there a visible leak from the sphere? Could it just be the valve leaking?

 

I got it up on the ramps last night & couldn't see any obvious leaks, planning to get access to the engine bay when it stops raining to take a proper look - I could only see about half of the sphere from underneath.

I couldn't look under the front end as it's so low it wouldn't go up. Will get the front on the jacks later as well.

It does appear to be further down on the OS Rear than any other place.

 

anyone can check the mot history now.

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle

always an interesting read especially as advisories are shown as well.

 

Interesting, didn't know that Boris

 

If it is a bad sphere, I'd be calling all the MGF breakers and I'd be inquiring to the firms that can recharge the sphere.

 

Ah dude that sucks (want to try my pump again and see if it holds pressure?)

 

Hiya - did you get your gear cable fixed in the end ? I'll let you know about the pump up - at least it might let me find out where the leak is, there's got to be a lot of green goo somewhere . I've dropped it off at a local garage who owes us a favour at the moment - they don't have a pump but said they'd give it the once over! Failing that it's Beach Hill garage on Thursday, I really hope it's just a leak in the pipework somewhere!

 

Hopefully its the valve has got stuck.

 

I had a problem with my rear Trophy spheres. I found a member on here who was scrapping a Trophy for the engine.
I had all four spheres delivered for £65. They are still good 4 years later.
I have 2 hardly used front spheres in the garage but no rears sorry.
I know you could try normal spheres with lowering pins.

 

Could just be a leaky valve as mentioned. Perhaps he blew it up (perhaps he didn't) to top it up and then it developed a leak from the valve, or perhaps it just started leaking when you drove it. All is possible if not likely. Nothing you can do except talk to the owner as it could have happend on the drive home.

 

So it looks like my hunch was right about the front subframe. Its been welded in the past then re-painted (hence why only this was done). The rear wing has also been replaced in the past (hence why the passenger door doesn't line up). Looking inside the boot & pulling the lining away it's a black wing that's been re-sprayed..

I'm going to give him a call later to find out what's going on!

 

Ask whether it was an insurance Cat C or D, if not when the accident damage took place - assume rear wing was accident and not rot. Certainly sounding a bit suspicious I'm afraid

 

I checked it out already - no insurance write offs online..

 

I have to say I would be asking for my money back as quickly and as nicely as possible.

 

I am not sure that Cat Ds (maybe not even Cat Cs) are necessarily recorded anywhere but would certainly be a material part of the description on selling in my mind

 

I am not sure that Cat Ds (maybe not even Cat Cs) are necessarily recorded anywhere

They are both recorded by the DVLA and will appear on the V5 / logbook.

 

But if a claim isn't pursued and a vehicle is privately repaired, does that make it a "Cat D" effectively? I note the apparent second hand rear wing which wouldn't be an insurance repair I assume. Not necessarily suggesting that this happened but how would you know if not told?

You have recourse to legal action if you unwittingly bought a Cat D car privately without the car's write-off status being declared. Sellers can face civil action even if they were unaware of the car being a Cat D under the ‘innocent misrepresentation’ clause in the Misdescriptions Act. I would certainly ask whether there were any accidents, claims not pursued etc

 

Sound advice, you should not let this go!