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airbox modding

6.2K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  Movies  
#1 ·
just saw a thread about drilling holes in the airbox instead of using a cone filter.....
any powergains etc

if so where shud i drill

bootm part ?
top part?
sides of them?
how many?
dioametrer of holes?

cheers
 
#5 ·
Yes.

But how is it going to put your mates Fiesta in its place.

Don't take this the wrong way, but all it does is make the car sound like it belongs to a chav.

we he is a full blown chav and has spent abwt ÂŁ200 on induction kits and exhausts and yet with no engine modding i can still beat his car and hopefully this will make mine sound a bit better to

don't worry im not a chav lol
i dont normally rev it high enough anyway
 
#10 ·
ive taken the restrictor pipe out already and noticed a slight diffference, and i would imagine that yeah it needs to be on the bottom part of the airbox so that the air still gets filtered.

ill star with a few hole sand then see what difference it makes.

and i not friends with the chav by choice. we were best mates since birth really lol and then a few years ago he went rong lol
 
#16 ·
Don't drill the box.

Do the dirty Airbox mod (removing the restriction pipe).

Remove the resonator box (under the battery tray), and the tube/air intake piece connected to it coming from the bumper (which also connects to your Airbox).

You can leave it like this for noticeable noise gain, and a tiny amount of increased throttle response (you won't notice it most likely). Or, you can then run some tubing from the now open hole in the bottom half of the Airbox (where the resonator connected), to your lower meshed grille, Voila. Cheap forced air induction.
 
#17 ·
Don't drill the box.

Do the dirty Airbox mod (removing the restriction pipe).

Remove the resonator box (under the battery tray), and the tube/air intake piece connected to it coming from the bumper (which also connects to your Airbox).

You can leave it like this for noticeable noise gain, and a tiny amount of increased throttle response (you won't notice it most likely). Or, you can then run some tubing from the now open hole in the bottom half of the Airbox (where the resonator connected), to your lower meshed grille, Voila. Cheap forced air induction.

Has anybody got this modification in picture form? So us knuckle draggers can have a pop at it too.:drunk4:
 
#19 ·
Erm, I think there is somewhere if you use the search function.

If not, i'll photo it tommorow when it's light. It's simple as though. Basically, the main box of your airbox, there is a "Tube" at the front of it with a couple forks on it, into the bumper and into a box underneath the battery tray. You can just pull this out and still keep the resonator box in place (the box under the battery tray, it's there to reduce intake noise), incase if you want to put it back in, in future. As with this tube removed the resonator box isn't in use.

Then just run tubing from the front of the airbox :)
 
#21 ·
I have no idea as to why the "Dirty Airbox mod" was not tested at the MG Rover Merseyside RR day.

From reading and looking at air box comparisons of the TF160 air box and the original MGF design at http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/ you can see that MGR purposely added the additional pipe. Now obviously the airbox differences for the R200 arent such apparent in size but I cant help but agree that it is there as that is the area which has the greatest rate of flow. Why double the size of the TF airbox and filter panel just to hamper it with what some may just presume is a resonator of some kind?
We have at the office both styles of airboxs which I have actually looked at personally to see weather the article was plausible and tbh, its suggestions seem sound. Of course, on an R200, it may be different due to air box size, but I still think that any power gain would either be a placebo effect due to increase noise or just a freer flowing engine with a smoother power curve. Which really, I guess neither is a bad thing :)