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MG ZR160 2005
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day All,

just completed a "two afternoon" battle to remove the 'Pektron' unit from my ZR. Main reason it needs to come out is because the drivers window started only descending some time back. Also the foglights have never worked since I got the car six or seven years ago {could live with no foglights but the window is just too annoying}. Having already had to replace a window motor a few years back was seriously considering scrapping the leccy system & reverting to windy-up jobs. Mine is one of the ZR's with aircon so I was warned {by this very forum} before starting the job. Gave up the first day after getting as far as removing the placcy disc from the bracket pin, although the bracket refused to come off the pin, though it wobbled up & down. Today, although there didn't look to be space to lower the unit without hitting the plastic flange of the ducting into which the a/c condenser fits, I managed to prise it free - didn't think I'd ever get it out with the clearances I'd created but with a lot of agitating, manoevering the thing so I could undo the strap from the bracket, cutting away a bit of sound-deadening from the floor I got the thing out.

Now - a couple of pointers if anyone knows? No way on Gods earth is that thing going back where it was (and fcuk the "Thatcham five minute test") so I'd like to make an "extension lead" to resite the thing behind the centre console. Does anyone know what the plugs / sockets are called for an Internet search to buy some?
Even more tragically I had two faults reported by a 'Pscan' interrogation: I have fault code "P1520 Intake manifold runner circuit malfunction" also "P1522 Variable Intake solenoid #2 circuit malfunction" {backed up by the fact the engine won't rev higher than 5,000rpm}. Therefore the Engine Management ECU also needs repair / replacement. Does anyone know if a new ECU can be fitted without the Pektron needing reprogramming in order to talk to it?

Thanks,

Rob
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Rob
 

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Usual thing people do is to place it upside down muxh lower on the foorwell. I think that you have place described where people put Pektron box without need for extension wires here: Pektron SCU/BCU
If you need further information where is the good place to realocate the box it would be wise to ask Paul Brown @ Technozen Electronics - Home Of Pektron SCU Repair

If you put new engine ECU you need to pair it with Pektron system, but if I am not mistaken you have PScan tool which is more then capable to do so.
 

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MG ZR160 2005
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Roverlike, yes I have an email in to Technozen - also have the 'Pscan' so hopefully I can pair the two.
Regards,
Rob
 

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MG ZR160 2005
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well progress has been of the sort of 鈥渢wo steps forward, one back鈥 variety. If you are an electronics enthusiast 鈥 look away now, maybe 鈥渄on't try this at home鈥 should be the advice for anyone like me more used to the spanner than the soldering iron, and of limited resources when it comes to electronicy tools.

So having decided to relocate the Pektron I got a complete shopping list for 'RS Components' to order up the necessary and an evening spent online had the components (all bar the cables) heading my way. I found RS system a bit strange 鈥 from your order they rush what they've got at you in a couple of days and the rest as and when its available (at least thats how it is in Aus.). After the desk drawer filled up and no more was expected I found that everything fitted together bar one shell-plug that was too wide despite having the correct number of ways. A bit of research yielded the correct part number needed, further research revealed that the manufacturers store (in the USA) would sell you fifty minimum 鈥 but they didn't post to Australia. Better news 鈥 sort of 鈥 there was an Australian merchant that did have them in stock, minimum order quantity 1,200!

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Wondered whether it was possible to '3D print' the one that I needed but a '.pdf' technical drawing (yes I had that by now) doesn't translate easily to 3D printer instructions without a lot of work 鈥 don't have a 3D printer anyway so I'd have had to have blagged some time on someone elses. The rebuilt Pektron had arrived back by now quicker than expected so I really needed to get on. Why didn't I get the cabling from 'RS' 鈥 mostly its in rolls of 100m or more, fortunately the local electronics store was happy to sell me four metres of 16 way ribbon cable which was more than enough for my half-metre harness. The ribbon cable is pretty small diameter and I wasn't sure what current the larger fourteen of the seventy six terminals are supposed to carry so I used 3 square mm single core for these 鈥 had six separate colours of this to play with. Speaking of the local electronics store (Jaycar) I got really friendly in my repeated visits 鈥 came to realise that the world of plugs and sockets seems divided along ultra-partisan allegiances like say Rangers and Celtic in football or republicans and monarchists, you're either in the 'Tyco' camp or the 'Molex' crowd and never the twain shall say a civil word about the other. So I didn't buy a 'Molex' depinning tool on principle (and because its probably too thick to unpin a 'Tyco').

The pins that go inside the shell plugs (two sizes) are intended to be crimped over the wire and I already had a crimp tool that was marked with red, blue, yellow one side of its hinge, and marked 鈥淣on-Insulated鈥 the other. Be alright with that I thought 鈥 until I tried it on the pesky pins 鈥 it mangled them. In the end I just used long-nosed pliers to bend the tabs one at a time 鈥 slow but it worked. Also slow was soldering the ribbon cable to the pins before crimping 鈥 as this cable's so thin I decided the dual method would give the best connectivity. I'd started on the largest shell plug in the group and when it came to fitting the pins in it was difficult due to the larger 鈥渨ings鈥 at the rear of the pin being too bulky when folded to go into the 鈥減igeonhole鈥 - lots of pulling the pins out and re-crumpling the rear wings before getting them to sink far enough into the shell.
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First plug finished all that remained was to hinge around the pair of 鈥済ates鈥 at the back of the plug to lock the pins in place. On to the next plug which didn't have these 鈥済ates.鈥 Attempting to get the pins in none of them would go until I realised there was a small 鈥渢rap door鈥 section on the underside of the plug shell which prised out a bit let the pins sink in 鈥 alright be forced in. Having done that I found that the trapdoor wouldn't go back in and without it retracted the plug won't engage the socket. Tried pliers, self-grip wrench 鈥 nothing worked, it just bounced back. In the end I tried to 鈥渟hock鈥 it into place with a small drift and hammer 鈥 result the plug shattered into about four pieces. Couldn't remember if this was one of the plugs that took days or weeks to arrive, in any case I needed to do something different in place of the plug that didn't fit so I resolved to just put the pins on the terminals with as much 鈥渉eatshrink鈥 tubing as I could possibly cram in to prevent shorting pin-to-pin 鈥 taking the place of the 鈥渟hell.鈥
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Also invested some time (too late) in watching 'youtube' videos of how to wire up shellplug pins 鈥 one guy was trimming the wings before crimping 鈥 I decided I'd try that for the remainder!
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The final shellplug (2nd largest) was the same 'trapdoor' type so I prised out the trapdoor section completely and threw it away, resolving just to push the pins further in from the rear with an instrument screwdriver if necessary. This time the (trimmed) pins went in easier 鈥 and seemed to stay put without the 'trapdoor' section in place.
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One other modification I made was to the socket section which had the 76 (very bendable) tangs sticking out the back in two rows. Apart from lashings more heatshrink around each one I cut out a rectangular section of plastic from an old crate to slide between the rows as an insulator 鈥 ducktaped in place.
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Everything fitted and continuity checked with a multimeter as I went it only remained to wrap the cabling in a velcro sleeve in an attempt to make the dogs dinner look slightly more professional.
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Location wise in the car there was a fair sized void behind the centre console, I pulled up the carpet and foam backing and fixed the (original) bracket to the floorpan with a self-tapper 鈥 bending the end of the bracket to the profile of the 'tunnel' in the floorpan. With the A/C unit back in place it was finger-pinchingly tight to get the original plugs into my new socket but I heard the 'click' as each one went home.
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Moment of truth, I reconnected the battery, the door locks worked, slight horror when first tried the window switch 鈥 nothing happened 鈥 then I remembered I'd pulled the plug from the switch to prevent getting stuck with a non-closable window 鈥 reconnected it worked a treat. Started up and tested the other electrics. Encouraged I took the thing for an extended test for about 40kM, stopped for fuel at the end of this and when restarting the exhaust started blowing, Doh!
 

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MG ZR160 2005
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK Not quite 'out of the woods yet' with the reconnected Pektron everything appeared to work BUT since discovered the door locks aren't fully operational. The keyfob both locks & unlocks entire car (good) without engine running, the keyfob won't lock/unlock car with engine running (bad), with car running the locks self lock when it moves, the button on the dash which was working before Pektron removal now doesn't do anything (bad), the passenger door can be unlocked by pulling up the door button (as expected) but trying that with drivers door there's no effect (feels like the plastic of the button slides over the wire "core"), Lastly the car unlocks when you turn off the ignition (good).

The practical effect is that you get trapped in the car until you turn off the ignition (unless you climb over to passenger side) which is not too safe or handy. Any idea where I should start looking for the cause / remedy for this? Interim measure is there any way of turning off the automatic 'lock when moving' default as at least then I'd have the choice whether I want to be stuck inside?
 

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Unfortunately "lock when moving" is Pektron software feature which Technoen could remove if you told him. Bad thing is that PScan still do not have option for that feature removal programmed. So only option os to either find someone with Testbook T4 which still can remove that feature or send it back to Technozen.
Button in the car not working might be wiring problem with bad contact or no connection at all.

With the engine running you should not be able to lock and unlock the car from the fob, because with fob you are also setting the immobilisation which would have in effect that you would cut your engine to halt.

Button on the door not unlocking the drivers door might be door lock mechanical failure. My question was that working prior to Pektron removal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unfortunately "lock when moving" is Pektron software feature which Technoen could remove if you told him. Bad thing is that PScan still do not have option for that feature removal programmed. So only option os to either find someone with Testbook T4 which still can remove that feature or send it back to Technozen.
Button in the car not working might be wiring problem with bad contact or no connection at all.

With the engine running you should not be able to lock and unlock the car from the fob, because with fob you are also setting the immobilisation which would have in effect that you would cut your engine to halt.

Button on the door not unlocking the drivers door might be door lock mechanical failure. My question was that working prior to Pektron removal?
Thanks RL - yes button on door was working before though lock was noisy in operation (seems a common problem looking on the Forum). The oddest thing is the dashboard button that was working before, now not! Mybe my best shot at finding someone with 'Testbook T4' is locating a Landrover specialist? (at least "old" Landrovers).
 

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Testbook T4 could be found at Land Rover garages but they need to have Rover software as well not only Land Rover software as otherwise they will not be able to alter Pektron box.
 

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What a job, making that extension loom! :eek: When I got Technozen to replace the relays in my ZS BCU, I stuck it back where it came from (and never had to take it out again). Although I don't know what happened after I sold the car, which still shows as on the road on the .gov.uk site. :)
 
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