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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I've a 2004 Mk.I ZR with 30,000 miles. It's been sitting on my drive for three years since I bought it, but following the demise of my 45 (1.4 petrol after 218k miles), I've decided to get the ZR back on the road.
The reason it was taken off in the first place was that the brakes weren't as I liked them. It passed its MOT, but I thought there was some air remaining in the system after I drained one half of it. I've had the car on axle stands for the last three months, and (among other things) been bleeding the brakes with the engine running. This took a long time, and the engine was started many times. Near the end of this process, the EML came on. I read the P1222 code, but didn't bother looking up what it meant because I thought (wrongly perhaps) that this was a consequence of many starts and much running without the ECU seeing any road speed. I cleared the code and didn't expect it to return when the car had been used on the road.
I then changed the timing belts and aux belt. I suspect that those that were removed were the originals, and they were all in excellent condition!
Prior to taking it for an MOT, I took it for a test run a week ago (on private roads of course). On starting, it ran like a tractor and the EML came back with the same P1222 code. Once the car was warmed up, the tractor noise disappeared and it ran very well. I turned off the engine, reset the code, restarted it and the engine continued to run well and no new EML.
Having completed all the work, I took it for its MOT yesterday. Turning on the cold engine, tractor noise was back and EML illuminated again. It's about four miles to the test station. On arrival, the engine was again running nicely. Restarting it at the garage, EML remained on but the engine still sounded sweet. My friendly garage owner read the same P1222 fault code and reset it. He then restarted the warm engine and, again, the fault did not recur. But, I would expect that the first time it gets started from cold, the tractor running and EML will return.
He's now got the car and will MOT it next week. When I get it back, I would like to sort out this fault. What is strange is that it seems to run poorly only when cold. Is it the VP30 timing solenoid? If it is, I note the BOSCH part 2467010027 mentioned in this forum, but I can't find one for sale. However there are quite a few Ford VP30 solenoids for sale with the part number 0986444954. Will this fit? I don't want to fork out £160 if it isn't likely to solve the matter.

Many thanks for any advice.

Andrew
 

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Hi, I have a similar fault, and think I have read that your fault code is the timing solenoid, but have a search on the Diesel forum to check. Timing solenoids seem hard to come by at sensible prices. I've not gone down that route yet but think it might be necessary to change to cure my rough idle and I have a mis-fire above 3K rpm.
Hope you can get sorted as your low miler sounds good. Rimmer Bros have some good deals on brakes, I got some brand new calipers for £30 and excellent service.
Regards
 

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Have a read of this previous post:
 

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Have a read of the last post on this one, your could be due to being stood for so long:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for slow response, and thank you for your advice. The story has progressed since I last wrote here. There's lots of good news:
(1) The car passed its MOT last Monday
(2) The rear seat now unlocks to fold down and locks back up again (it failed to do this before because the bowden cable was detached from the pull-lever, all due to the rear seat striker plate being misaligned, probably from the factory).
(3) The bonnet now closes without having to slam shut (bumper off to reposition the lock mechanism)
(4) The brakes are now spot on. I invested in a "Mityvac" which seems to have removed the residual air that having an assistant pumping the brake pedal failed to do.

HOWEVER!
I took the car for its MOT - leaving it there on Friday. When I picked up the car the following Monday, the MOT tester said that on the Saturday he moved the car and the EML light came on. Later that day, he moved it again and the light was off. On Monday when he did the MOT, the light did not come on, and he left it parked up until I collected it, which was about ten hours after the engine was last run. I drove it home with normal running and no light. Today, I started it from cold and it sounded rough with tractor noise and the light came on! I drove it 40 miles. For the first twenty it was rough and lacked power, but the return journey was fine. When I got home, I reset the trouble code and the EML did not return when the engine was restarted.

In the 45 post that is referenced above, it was said that the metering solenoids can seize up after non-use. I wonder if the same applies to the timing solenoid? I'm inclined to use it for a while to see what happens rather than to dive in and replace the solenoid. Would appreciate any advice.

We all concluded that had the timing been wrong, the fault would be permanent.

Andrew
 
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