Wow, what a difference it makes!!!

2689 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by mikelskas, Sep 25, 2010

robdrinkwater

Discussion Starter · Sep 17, 2010

5

Well guys, finally got around to ordering a new rear engine tie bar (thanks Terry, cheque's in the post).

Fitted it yesterday, only took a few minutes but what a difference.

The symptoms that have now been cured include:

Judder on pulling away.
Clonk when pulling away & backing off.
Judder & vibration in the car at most speeds.
Rattles on the trim inside.
Wobbling gear stick.

To name just a few.

Pictures attached to show just how cracked up the old one was, doesn't look too bd, but obviously the amount of torque an engine produces will make this move alot.

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1 - 18 of 18 Posts

Howie666

· #2 · Sep 17, 2010

How many miles had you done before it died Rob? I'm trying to build a picture of the longevity of the standard mount vs the potential lifespan of the new polyurethane ones...
Toodles

Mr Edd

· #3 · Sep 17, 2010

Howie, in your research can you determine if there is a difference in longevity between the older models and the project drive ones? And for that matter the Face-lift ones. Also is it across the board or just the MG's or 75's?

Mine seems okay and she is now 10 years old this month.

Edd

ts autos

· #4 · Sep 17, 2010

A lot depends on the way the car is driven an auto will obviously be less harsh on the mount because of smooth take up and changes, oil leaks onto or around it also shorten it's life too

robdrinkwater

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 17, 2010

Howie666 said:
How many miles had you done before it died Rob? I'm trying to build a picture of the longevity of the standard mount vs the potential lifespan of the new polyurethane ones...
Toodles

107,000 miles, 03 reg car, so subject to project drive conditions, although I'm not sure if the quality changed due to project drive.

Don't forget mine has been wildly tuned and I drive it hard. I have had the car since 54,000 miles and I can't see any record of it being changed before I had it as I have fSH since new.

So pretty reliable really if it lasted all this time.

Regards, Rob.

ivorbigun

· #6 · Sep 17, 2010

My original failed after about 150 miles when brand new. Bonding failed between rubber and metal.

Replacement still OK after further 39000 miles.

Ivor.

Howie666

· #7 · Sep 17, 2010

I think mine died at about 70,000 miles or thereabouts. As the car is now 9 years old, I think they have a decent lifespan (subject to them being properly constructed in the first place), obviously how they're driven may affect them adversely but in the main not too bad. If the new urethane ones give 100k plus then I think they'll be worth the upgrade...

win2kpro

· #8 · Sep 19, 2010

Where did you get it from? what is the part number?

Nevermind, got it on Rimmer Bros

SuperHeavy1203

· #9 · Sep 20, 2010

The small end that fails is a push fit into the cast body (I took my broken one apart ....as yo do like)

There must be a firm that can supply a replacement bush....no more 3 month wait etc from China????

mikelskas

· #10 · Sep 24, 2010

Sorry to bring up an old(ish) topic chaps but Im still trying to work out if my tie bar is shot.

From underneath without the engine undertray it looks fine. Rob did yours look fine at first. Was it only when you removed it that you realized it was bust?

What Im trying to say is can the damaged bush look good from under the car but the top side be broke?

SuperHeavy1203

· #11 · Sep 24, 2010

The way it fits into a 'vertical slot' you cant see the bushes until the tie-bar is removed.

Usually a horrible clunking noise when you pull away sharpish or a clumst gearchange is the sympton of a worn/bust bottom tie rod.

mikelskas

· #12 · Sep 24, 2010

SuperHeavy1203 said:
The way it fits into a 'vertical slot' you cant see the bushes until the tie-bar is removed.

Usually a horrible clunking noise when you pull away sharpish or a clumst gearchange is the sympton of a worn/bust bottom tie rod.

Thanks SH, I have a clumsy gearchange. (doesnt always engage even though foot right to floor etc. Its also hard to change gear smoothly. Theres always a bit of a judder.) Il investigate further this weekend as long as it stays dry!

Dave Goody

· #13 · Sep 24, 2010

Mine was replaced at 45K ZT 190 53 reg

robdrinkwater

Discussion Starter · #14 · Sep 24, 2010

mikelskas said:
Sorry to bring up an old(ish) topic chaps but Im still trying to work out if my tie bar is shot.

From underneath without the engine undertray it looks fine. Rob did yours look fine at first. Was it only when you removed it that you realized it was bust?

What Im trying to say is can the damaged bush look good from under the car but the top side be broke?

It looked fine when we looked, but get it off and that's a different story, wrecked!

Martyn P

· #15 · Sep 24, 2010

Good pics Rob---good indications from you on how you spot the fault
Lower front suspension bushes bolted to the chassis fail in the same manner, different part numbers for either side as they are handed

All these bushes, when faulty, are difficult to inspect properly when in position
Regards M

mikelskas

· #16 · Sep 25, 2010

robdrinkwater said:
It looked fine when we looked, but get it off and that's a different story, wrecked!

Thanks for the reply Rob. Im just reading the haynes now to see how easy it is to inspect the bush properly.

mgrodzicky

· #17 · Sep 25, 2010

A plug for the Poles for DYI replacement bushes- for me shipping is killer

http://tedgum.pl/sklep/product_info.php?cPath=2_143_2892_5882&products_id=3336

mikelskas

· #18 · Sep 25, 2010

Ive just had a look, I cannot remove the mount with the exhaust int he way. The pin that goes through the larger side of the mount wont slide out due to the exhaust being in the way.

Does anybody have a trick/tip to help?

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

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