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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The passenger side regulator died about 6 months ago and I managed to get it replaced by the dealership in solihull free of charge even though it was BC:err:

Now my blinking drivers side one has died ..grrr..anyhoo is this a do-able diy job? Im reasonablly competant at doing simple things (i.e did my fogs etc) just wondering how involved the job will be!?

Ta
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm sure i've read somewhere about glueing the glass to some clips! sounds odd...and the hole behind the door card is quite small in comparisson to the regulator/motor mechanism - will it fit through? im sure i wouldnt have to take out the skin?!?
 

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Red_Devil said:
I'm sure i've read somewhere about glueing the glass to some clips! sounds odd...and the hole behind the door card is quite small in comparisson to the regulator/motor mechanism - will it fit through? im sure i wouldnt have to take out the skin?!?
It should go through the hole; you will probably find it packs down quite small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chris T said:
I know be a pioneer, do it and post instructions!
errr :errx2: i could try :cool:

we'll see how confident I am once I've got the part and took the door card off or a proper look :bandit:
 

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window regulator

Have been reading your thread and would like to pass on some very recent experience, and maybe get a bit of advice. I've got a 53 plate MGTF 135, got in it this morning and the drivers side window wound down but would not go back up.
I took the door card off (4 screws and the usual push fittings), be careful to disconnect the tweeter speaker cable before pulling the door card away. Remove the big speaker, and try to remove the plastic cover without too much damage to gain access into the door skin.

The window mechanism is held in place by about 5 screws and the glass is held onto the mechanism by 2 screws. Once all these have been removed, unplug the motor cable and the mechanism can be easily removed through the large hole with a bit of guidance through the speaker hole. Putting it all back together is no real problem, I did it all tonight and it took about 2 1/2 hours.

Some advice please if anyone knows - I tested the motor by switching the connections around and it winds both ways, put a tester on the terminals and get voltage when I push the switch down, but no voltage when pressed up. Also changed over switches (put the passenger side one onto the drivers side - no change) Any ideas??
 

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Tenchmaster said:
Some advice please if anyone knows - I tested the motor by switching the connections around and it winds both ways, put a tester on the terminals and get voltage when I push the switch down, but no voltage when pressed up. Also changed over switches (put the passenger side one onto the drivers side - no change) Any ideas??
Other than stating the obvious `break in the switch up wire`, hard to say??

Here is the windows wiring diagram......... its off the `F` so is nearly the same as the TF other than a `one shot down` ecu........I think!!.

http://www.mgfcar.de/schedules/sb24.jpg
 

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Marl.L said:
Other than stating the obvious `break in the switch up wire`, hard to say??

Here is the windows wiring diagram......... its off the `F` so is nearly the same as the TF other than a `one shot down` ecu........I think!!.

http://www.mgfcar.de/schedules/sb24.jpg
Marl,
many thanks for the wiring diagram, will get the the tester out again tomorrow night and let you know how I get on.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cheers tenchmaster. Im gonna def have a crack at this meez thinks. Dunno about the pictures and guide....spike's kindof set a high standard :)
 

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Red_Devil, nothing to loose, as I said before, it's not difficult, in fact, after the message from Chris I had to remove the door card again tonight to check the wiring. Couple of things I meant to mention, it's very difficult to remove the plastic liner on the door without damaging it. I would advise cutting where req'd and tape over the cut when finished. One last thing, remove the plastic grommet from the door card where the lock knob goes through, you get a bigger hole to feed the knob through and the grommet goes back in after the card is fitted.

Message to Chris - checked wiring, no breaks, ah well, back to it!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok heres a quick update.

I did fitted a new regulator the weekend I get from the scrppy off an 05 plate car and it works fine and only took an hour to fit!!!

I didnt take pictures etc and daredn't write a proper guide given spikes high standards :) but will offer the following comments to people thinking of doing it themselves:

1. its not a hard job! I'd say it was easier than fitting my front fog lights.

2. All i used was a small moveable spanner, a phillips screwdriver, an 8mm and 10mm spanners (for back up).

Heres how I did it.

1. remove door card by taking out the 6 (?) phillips screws (1 above the main speaker, 2 in the little cubby box thing, 1 behind the door handle and two on the rear edge of the door card). Dont forget that the tweeter cable is still attached to the card - so be careful! It can be unplugged though once the card is off. The door card also has some push-in clips at the bottom which need a little yank to get free. (No george bush jokes please ;) )

2. Unscrew the little cubbybox support (2 screws) and the main speaker (3 screws) and unclip the cable attached to the rear of it.

3. Pull off the plastic sheet except around the door pull.

4. Unclip the regulator power cord and plug it in to the replacement.

5. Try the replacement before fitting - but be careful - it has a scissor action and I shan't take the blame for lost fingures :)

6. No you've established that it works, with the window in the closed/up position identify the two plastic clips that attach the regulator to the glass. Undo these (they are either 8 or 10mm nuts). get an assistant to hold the glass - just incase it falls down. If its stiff (oh err) like my one it wont need holding.

7. Undo the nuts attaching the regulator mechanism to the door, they are relativly easy to identify - I think there are 6. All are easily accessible now the plastic sheet has been moved.

8. manually fold down the old regulator and remove through the big hole towards the rear of the door.

9. put in new regulator. and attach nuts to hold it in place. This is the trickyest part as the regulator needs to be in the correct 'place' on its scissor action thingy. Basically if the holes dont line up plug it in and use the windowup/down button to get it in the right place. (I found the middle of the curve shaped bit was ok)

10. Attach the glass clips to the regulator and let your assistant go for a break.

11. Try the window. It should work fine now.

12. Put back cable through the hole where it was initially and clip it back in, put the speaker back in and the armrest support. Bung the doorcard back on and admire the new working window which means you can now use car parks with ticket dispensers again :)

Hope the above pearls should be of use to anyone thinking of trying this.

Nick.
 
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