This any help? http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=213626

Good luck, you're right to be cautious though

 

Thanks David, I used this guide when I did it before, and the time before than when I did HG so I'm totally confused as to why it keeps failing. I think it must be something to do with bolts being tightened - If I overtighten will it crush the gasket?

 

Yes I believe so, you need the proper tools really. Tightening too much is worse than too little

 

Very annoying, I just don't have a torque wrench small enough to fit in the tight squeeze behind the manifold, I have a bigger torque wrench. Looks like I'm going to have to fork out the £30 or so for one just to get this job done properly

 

Try borrowing one from a neighbour

 

I have asked around mates and relations and I can only lay my hands on ones that would be too big for the tight access behind the inlet. Everyone telling me just to do up 'hand tight' but one mans hand tight is different to anothers and I can only put the issue down to tightness unless the whole manifold has bent or warped or something

 

where would I hire one from? I'm aware of tool hire for building trades but wouldn't know where to go for mechanical tools??

 

Iam,

I noticed the same problem with the lack of space behind the manifold too.
I've done the job three times now, twice on my old R400 and once on my R25.

You need a selection set of socket extension bars, say 1/8" drive along with some socket adaptors, ie; from 1/8" drive to 1/2" drive.

At the time, I nipped to Motorworld and picked up a cheap set of both extensions and adaptors. Only cost just over a tenner.

I didn't follow Haynes procedure for removing the manifold, I just undid the seven nuts and let the manifold 'hang free' to provide enough of a gap to change the gasket.
Using a combination of the extensions and adaptors, I managed to get my torque wrench on and nip the nuts up.

I.

 

Halfords sell a small torque wrench for around £35. Pretty good for the money and for future use.

I.

 

Anyone else had problems with Overtightening these bolts?

 

Only in that I overtightened a few and the threaded studs came out of the engine block
- easy to notice though as when tightening it, it went all loose as soon as the studs came loose

As this is pretty obvious if it happens I doubt it's your problem


Did you tighten the nuts from the centre nut to the outer nuts?
This is always the best way to press down a gasket and as to not warp anything out of shape

There is another gasket now from Rimmer bros by the way
it's black like the old old ones but is made of viton or something new and wonderful etc etc
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LKJ101110

 

Yeh thats the one im gunna go for, cant get it delivered for the weekend though n wanted it done this weekend. So does nobody recommend using any kind of gasket seal stuff, when i took the old one off the mating surfaces were covered in black stuff that had to be scrapped off and cleaned.

 

iam,

Just nip out to Halfords or a local motor factors and pick up a cheap torque wrench. The lowest rated one will be 8-60nM, measuring 12" long and is 3/8" drive. Plus it'll be pretty slim, so it will fit behind your manifold or your money back from me.

Retighten the nuts to Haynes setting plus 1nM, you'l be fine. If, in the coming weeks you suspect that the manifold may be warped, then grab another from the scrappers.

I.

 

I would normally do this but with it being the wifes birthday and having already spent Nearly £100 on straights i didnt really need im skint and need every penny i can get, £30 for a little torque wrench im unlikely to use much is not possible at the mo but seems its the only way i'm gunna solve the problem so might just have to wait n keep topping up coolant. Only thing is it'll be knacking my cat as well wont it?
By the way anyone know what a blue tinged smoke fromthe rear indicates or maybe i'm just seeing things. Looks blue when i start cold but then goes white.

 

i use sealant on this,and the waterpump seal,as both are thin,with a small contact surface area on both sides.