Guessing this was the ZS120 John?

 

fair play to you, good way of keeping you occupied for a few hours lol and the clutch plate wasnt that far behind either by the looks of it

 

Totally wasted, been a while since I've seen a bearing in that state.

 

That's well and truly broke!! Just changed my clutch and the bearing was a bit rough when spinning but physically still looked ok.

Did she still manage to change gear?

 

No, the car was almost undriveable. Very strong burnt out clutch smell too.

You could select a gear, but, then difficult to come out of gear into neutral. The car would only move forward at a snail's pace .... clutch slipping. That was the puzzling part. I expected to see the clutch plate with polished friction plate rivets where they were in contact with the flywheel or cover plate but, not at all. All rivet heads were still below the friction surface although close to it.

Clutch is superb now and even reverse can be selected silently provided you are not heavy handed.

It was the first time I've removed one of those 'plastic' hydraulic clutch slave cylinders on these later K-Series. Took a few seconds only to remove and refit.

Removal of the Slave Cylinder and its bracket on the T-Series takes far longer on my Rover 620ti. Over engineered compared to the arrangement on the K-Series.

Here's the Slave cylinder unclipped and placed to one side during gearbox removal. :~

The black metal housing in the bottom centre of the picture is where it slots back in.

We found that removal of the battery tray and other items was a great help and improved access enormously. Takes more time to remove those items but, saves much time overall.

Busy again John!

How about a how to with pics?

Do you drop the box from below?

Chris

Yes, high up on axle stands to provide extra below car clearance. I did not take many pictures... here's the last ones I took :~

 

Busy again John!

How about a how to with pics?

Do you drop the box from below?

Chris

 

Used the car for a shopping trip this morning. Done about 25 miles in it now since fitting the new clutch. Car is now a joy to drive again. Couldn't resist the tempatation of a TLGP take off. Pulled up alongside a chap in a VW Passat with TDi on the back. He was obviously shaping up and ready for it.... edging forward on the clutch...two miles of dual carrigeway ahead of us and no other traffic. No creeping forward by me though but, I was ready...

He just had to demonstrate his superior German Car performance.... :lol:.... Total FAIL .... no contest. Probably consolled himself with thought the ZS was a V6 .... and not the hugely underestimated humble 1.8 4-Pot K series MGZS...

The clutch is superb. Funny how over the years you do not notice a gradual reduction in the way a car drives. It's a very slow decline and you adjust to it day-to-day. Only when a new component like the clutch is fitted correctly do you then realise what was missing.

Nice one ...

 

two miles of dual carrigeway ahead of us and no other traffic.

Would that be the Golden Valley? :broon:

 

always surprises me how light the clutch pedal feels after the clutch has been changes.

 

Agree 100% with that. Once i'd had a new clutch fitted to my 45 the pedal seemed to be featherlight compared to how it used to be (I realise now how stiff and heavy it really was) and also the release arm just about siezed wasn't helping. But, as said, these things do creep up on you and you don't notice them, the other thing being like this are brakes, especially if no-one else drives the vehicle to notice and comment.

 

I heard a Rover making "the noise" the other day as it overtook me at some traffic lights. It was very tempting to chase them and tell them to get their car into the garage as the very fact they were pootling along suggested they were blissfully unaware of the ticking timb bomb under their clutch foot

Nice work John. Wish you could've done mine... although mine wasn't too pricey to be fair but I am £270 down from my release bearing disintegrating and my clutch dying a hideous death.

Mine lasted around 100 miles before it totally went from the first signs of minor slippage to the clutch pedal being too heavy to depress and the smell being so acrid you had to wear a face mask. And the noises.. god the noises.
In my case I did take it straight to a garage the first day it started with the noises but the garage told me it was fine. 100 miles later, it certainly wasn't :lol:

 

I know it childish, but will we ever grow out of burning people off at the lights?
I do hope so, as I've got the V6 and doing tricks like that costs me a damn fortune in petrol.
This is another one of those jobs I'd really like to have a go at but really don't want to mess up; good work, as always.

 

Outer CV-Joint Gaitor and Differential Seal renewals.

During the Clutch renewal work the nearside Differential Seal and Outer CV-Joint must have been damaged and both have been losing lubricant since then.

MoT due in a week so needed to get this work done. Got all my tools laid out ready and guess what, torrential rain. In between those heavy showers and the bright sunshine alternating every half hour, I managed to get both jobs done. The gearbox had only lost about half of its MTF 94.

Making a start :~

Yes, traces of lubricant where it should not be :~

More bad news ~ torn CV-Joint Gaitor.

Shaft ready for removal from the car :~

Took a break for a cuppa and to give my joints time to recover. General view of the job in hand.

That's better ~ nice new CV-Joint Gaitor.

It helped and saved time that all the various bolts and nuts had been disturbed during the previous work when renewing the clutch. No need to struggle with anything at all.

Drove car for a couple of miles before handing it over to my wife.

Now for the MoT.
..

 

Dunno if you remember but I pm'd you a few weeks ago re the clutch cable.

Just seen your first post of the clutch release bearing, I've whipped the clutch out and mine looks even worse than that, the ball bearings are the only thing that didn't weld LOL

Once again it was a case of 'my cars making a funny noise, i think the clutch may be going' uh oh LOL.

I take it your cable survived? This one stretched I think she tried to put the release bearing through the flywheel...

I thought I was being smart when I decided to use my old cg clutch on her...till I remembered the nasp use the 215mm clutch...doh.

 

MGZS 120+ has a Hydraulic Clutch System, no cable. So light and controllable now ~ vast improvement and you notice it more when getting into this MGZS after driving another car with an older or worn clutch.
..

 

yyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeesss I'm being thick.

Hydraulic ftw though you do get some downsides....don't know how the 120 fares but admit I'm a slight concerned for the diesels longevity.

So, how long did this one take you to do?

 

Working at a leisurely pace, on account of extreme old age... ... I spent an hour working and preparing the parts before watching all of the Silverstone Qualifying and post qualifying chat, then a couple of hours after that all at a sedate pace. I clean things thoroughly as I work and although that means more time, it can save time in the long run.

Earlier, my two sons and their young friend left for a local scrap yard to remove an engine from a Rover 25. They borrowed quite few of my tools and were back with the complete engine, flywheel and clutch assembly within two hours. Boy can those boys work as a team...

I spent a leisurely half hour in the bath after working on the ZS ~ Oh what bliss the simple things in life can be ... and me old joints are all the better for that too. My batteries are fully recharged.
.

 

Not bad going at all then!

 

UPDATE ~ Offside Differential Oil Seal Renewal.

At last I had an opportunity to replace the other damaged Differential Oil Seal. Unusually, both these original seals had sustained some damage during the process of renewing the Clutch on this car.

As described earlier in this thread, I has already replaced the Differential Oil Seal on the nearside. That one was losing more lubricant so took priority.

So, starting work at 6:30 this evening when the too warm for hard work warmer temperatures of the past few days started to drop, I got all the tools ready for the job and got stuck in. This first picture shows the damaged seal revealed when the driveshaft was removed. That process probably damaged the seal in the first place. You can clearly see the tracks of the lost lubricant.

The view from below :~

I used a large long screwdriver to prise out the damaged seal and cleaned up the location for the new seal. You can clearly see the Nylon Ball Cage of the Differential Bearings in this picture :~

Here the new seal is in place :~

The Outer CV-Joint was not easy to remove so before refitting, I covered the splines and nearby surfaces with a smear of copper based grease :~

Slotted the Inner CV-Joint into the differential location with the usual very satisfying clonk and assembled the Outer CV-Joint, replaced the ball joint swivel not forgetting the all important split pin in the Castellated Locking nut. Took car for a little run to check it out.

Tomorrow, my wife who mainly uses the car will use it for a few miles and on her return, I'll place a large sheet of old cardboard under the differential to look for any signs of further oil losses. Should be OK. The nearside seal replaced earlier showed no sign of losses :~

Looks like job done...
..