wheelarch repair

7717 Views 40 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Per E., Oct 18, 2010

ANDYSSLI

Discussion Starter · Sep 30, 2010

Hi

Starting the repairs tomorrow, will post pics as i go.
Cost breakdown so far..
Repair section 35.00
Sheet steel[ for patch repairs] 12.00
Underseal 8.00
Mig wire 25.00
Grinding and cutting discs 10.00
Goggles 3.00
Mig welder [ needed new one ] 240.00
Bondo filler 12.00
sanding discs 6.00

Could probably got mig wire cheaper, but as working outside opted for the gasless stuff..
Expensive i know... but car is a fantastic runner, never let me down etc..also planning on keeping car for a couple of years yet.. I am sure more consumables may be needed as i go, the final paint job
on the wheelarch is been done by a friend in the trade....hopefully
at mates rates!...

Cheers
Andy

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

Ulmenkott

· #2 · Sep 30, 2010

Did one arch last weekend.. not 100% done yet.
Got a "clicker" just above the seam... not sure if i can leave it and fill with bondo or if i have to cut the seam up again and reweld.

/Joakim

ANDYSSLI

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 1, 2010

18

Well its been a busy day cutting out the rot etc....Its not pretty, but once i start to patch the holes with plates it should look better. I actually didnt think it was going to be so bad behind the bumper.....strange thing is the other side has only a tiny patch of rust about 2" square!..

Few pics as it was....

Here it is after i left the garage today....

Trial fitting the arch section....it has been trimmed to fit..

Will post more tomorrow when i have made some patch repairs..

Cheers
Andy

See less See more

E_T_V

· #4 · Oct 1, 2010

Looks very good so far.

Is the arch an accord one?

Ulmenkott

· #5 · Oct 1, 2010

Excellent.. yours were far more gone than mine. Just had to cut out about 2" of the sills and a 3x4" in the inner arche against the boot. Allways more than meets the eye when it comes to rust....

Accord CC7 (1993-1997) i believe... at least thats what i used.

/Joakim

MGJohn

· #6 · Oct 1, 2010

I will enjoy reading this work in progress account. Keep up the good work.

devon

· #7 · Oct 1, 2010

All the best, looking good. I only thought I had some surface rust, nothing like yours though, I admire your enthusiasm - there always seems 3x as much hidden/spread. My NS had hardly any rust, (small area hidden by bumper) mine was all on OS (1996 model) - luck of the draw I guess.

z0ool

· #8 · Oct 1, 2010

looking good, and be nice to see the finished result

ANDYSSLI

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 2, 2010

5

Cheers guy`s

Thanks for the encouragement.....Its taking some doing as it is far worse
than i expected...This is after 6 hours today, worse part is going to be the
inner wheelarch repair section needed at the top ....difficult access!..Lots of opening and shutting of door and trial fitting of the bumper to ensure correct alignment etc,...So far i am still on my first roll of No gas mig wire
so not too bad...

Hopefully another full day tomorrow should get it just about done. Couple
of the bumper bolts need work as they sheared off on removal.

Cheers
Andy

See less See more

E_T_V

· #10 · Oct 2, 2010

It is good to see someone doing a proper job rather than simply slapping on a load of filler.

Keep up the good work.

MGJohn

· #11 · Oct 2, 2010

3

ANDYSSLI said:
Cheers guy`s

Thanks for the encouragement.....Its taking some doing as it is far worse
than i expected...This is after 6 hours today, worse part is going to be the
inner wheelarch repair section needed at the top ....difficult access!..Lots of opening and shutting of door and trial fitting of the bumper to ensure correct alignment etc,...So far i am still on my first roll of No gas mig wire
so not too bad...

Hopefully another full day tomorrow should get it just about done. Couple
of the bumper bolts need work as they sheared off on removal.

Cheers
Andy

All Good stuff ...

Couple of the bumper bolts need work as they sheared off on removal.

If you mean those two lower nuts/studs which are in a direct line of fire from the rear wheels and resulting corrosion weld. They rarely undo without sheering off.

Fortunately, I learned this on the breaker yard cars so with that in mind, I cut those lower nuts away with a junior hacksaw which avoids sheering off their studs. I use the same nuts you can access from Inside the boot behind the cloth trim which will be corrosion free.. use a tad of grease on those lower ones...

Remove a couple of nuts from inside the boot ~ corrosion free :~

..

See less See more

xDGTx

· #12 · Oct 2, 2010

Great job...wish I had a garage and space to do some of this type of work...

Great thread, will be watching..

Dave.

ANDYSSLI

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 3, 2010

3

Evening guy`s

Sundays progress....left garage early today, broke the glass in the welder helmet and had no spares...Thanks for the tip on the bumper bolts, but the whole threaded bar sheared off so will have to drill out and weld in another stud. Also i was unable to remove the 7 or 8 plastic screws from the top edge of the bumper so will have to locate some new fixings...i noticed they have them in stock at Rimmers...but a bit pricey.

Still another full day needed at least to finish repair sections, to rear of sill, bootfloor, inner wheelarch.. If this was a garage bill the car would definatly be in the scrapyard now....

Andy

See less See more

MGJohn

· #14 · Oct 3, 2010

ANDYSSLI said:
Evening guy`s

...... Also i was unable to remove the 7 or 8 plastic screws from the top edge of the bumper so will have to locate some new fixings...i noticed they have them in stock at Rimmers...but a bit pricey.

Anyone who wants to remove those plastic screws which secure the bumper ( Scrivets? ) for reuse can do so in the following way.

I use a longish extension bar placed against the other end of the screw so that some upwards pressure is applied ~ another pair of hands can help here. Then by undoing the centrally located screw with the screwdriver you'll find that it should unscrew up and out of it's plastic retainer surround easily. Once the centre screw is out, its retainer can be removed easily too. That way they both can be reused.

Like so many things in life, there's a 'knack' to doing it and also like so many things, it's easy .... when you know how...

Per E.

· #15 · Oct 3, 2010

Very nice work Andy

ANDYSSLI said:
Also i was unable to remove the 7 or 8 plastic screws from the top edge of the bumper so will have to locate some new fixings...i noticed they have them in stock at Rimmers...but a bit pricey.
Andy

Actually you don't have to the remove them. If you undo the nut shown in the last picture in MGJohns post, you can remove the bumper with the metal frame attached.

Another thing, remember to make the cutouts for the plastic clips to hold the sill cover and the small retainer for the bumper mounting screw on the horizontal part of the new repair panel. Just above where the mole grips sits on the first picture.

Rgds. Per

ANDYSSLI

Discussion Starter · #16 · Oct 4, 2010

Cheers
had to remove those plastic top fixings from the bumper bar
as I have tow bar fitted. It would require this taking off first
but seemed more work as those brackets etc look pretty
rusted on... Ordered new fixings for bumper from runners...
All locating holes will be made after all welding is finished..

Thanks again
Andy

coalman

· #17 · Oct 5, 2010

have you noticed the "no gas" wire produces a dry weld?

ANDYSSLI

Discussion Starter · #18 · Oct 7, 2010

9

Finished

Well... for now. Will be painted professionaly later on...

cheers
Andy

See less See more

Ulmenkott

· #19 · Oct 7, 2010

Excellent work there Andy!

/Joakim

Skye_rovers

· #20 · Oct 7, 2010

Ulmenkott said:
Excellent work there Andy!

/Joakim

Yes, that's a lovely tidy job you have done. I'm hoping that I don't need to do this on my 620SDi for a while yet ; I'm OK on the structural bits, but useless on the cosmetics......

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.