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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone the problem I have is wheel wobble. The problem might be due to the fact that there is a different tyre on every wheel (that's what the car came with) but I don't want to change them yet as they have plenty of tread left. The wheels have been refurbed recently and the tyres balanced, so could it be down to not having matching tyres on the front? Any help/advice would be much appreciated. Regards as always.
 

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You could get them balanced.
 

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At what speed does this happen?

What size and type of wheels do you have? (Some are known to like potholes and end up not being very straight)

How old is the MoT? (If it was some time ago there could be play in the suspension or a wheel baring etc.).

The mismatch of tyres on the same axel is not a good idea at the best of times.
 

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check the nuts are tight, wouldn't be the first time someone's put wheels on and forgotten to tighten the nuts up...especially if wheels only recently refurb'd , did it myself once on one of my F's and also on a Mazda Bongo I once owned, with that I thought it was wheel bearings and bought new ones...makes F and TF once look cheap....it was only when I went to take the wheels off to change the bearings I found out studs were loose...never did need bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At what speed does this happen?

What size and type of wheels do you have? (Some are known to like potholes and end up not being very straight)

How old is the MoT? (If it was some time ago there could be play in the suspension or a wheel baring etc.).

The mismatch of tyres on the same axel is not a good idea at the best of times.
Hi, 15 inch alloys MoT 3 months. All bushes replaced with poly's new shocks, if there was a problem with any of this my garage would have picked it up during MoT. Tyres, as I said they are too good to get rid of yet. Speed at about 50 ish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
check the nuts are tight, wouldn't be the first time someone's put wheels on and forgotten to tighten the nuts up...especially if wheels only recently refurb'd , did it myself once on one of my F's and also on a Mazda Bongo I once owned, with that I thought it was wheel bearings and bought new ones...makes F and TF once look cheap....it was only when I went to take the wheels off to change the bearings I found out studs were loose...never did need bearings
Hi wheels are tightened to the correct 70 nm.
 

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Did you jack up each corner and check wheel bearings for play?
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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Could be any number of things - you seem to have ruled out wheel nuts, wheel bearings, and wheel balancing. That really only leaves the tyres and brakes: brake discs may be warped or damaged, or may not be square to the hub (a mechanic fitting new discs will normally check for 'run-out' to avoid this happening). None of that will be highlighted by the MOT test, which checks the braking performance, not the condition/set-up of the brakes.

The other possibilities are a buckled or distorted wheel rim, flat spots on one or more tyres (some tyres do tend to wear unevenly in this way), or a damaged tyre (possible pot hole damage, which may not be visible externally, but may result in an uneven rolling circumference, thus giving a vibration at speed). Uneven/flat spot wear is more likely on budget brands (as is pot hole damage), but can happen on better quality makes sometimes too - back in the 1980s some Dunlops were well known for wearing in flat spots, and giving a rough ride as a result.

If it only happens when you get to about 50mph, and fades at a higher speed, the favourite would be wheel balancing - sometimes it is the brake disc/drum or driveshaft that is out of balance, and the wheel balancing needs to be carried out 'on car' to solve it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Could be any number of things - you seem to have ruled out wheel nuts, wheel bearings, and wheel balancing. That really only leaves the tyres and brakes: brake discs may be warped or damaged, or may not be square to the hub (a mechanic fitting new discs will normally check for 'run-out' to avoid this happening). None of that will be highlighted by the MOT test, which checks the braking performance, not the condition/set-up of the brakes.

The other possibilities are a buckled or distorted wheel rim, flat spots on one or more tyres (some tyres do tend to wear unevenly in this way), or a damaged tyre (possible pot hole damage, which may not be visible externally, but may result in an uneven rolling circumference, thus giving a vibration at speed). Uneven/flat spot wear is more likely on budget brands (as is pot hole damage), but can happen on better quality makes sometimes too - back in the 1980s some Dunlops were well known for wearing in flat spots, and giving a rough ride as a result.

If it only happens when you get to about 50mph, and fades at a higher speed, the favourite would be wheel balancing - sometimes it is the brake disc/drum or driveshaft that is out of balance, and the wheel balancing needs to be carried out 'on car' to solve it.
Hi and thanks for the most comprehensive reply so far. I've been in touch today with the garage that done the recent balance they told me that one of the wheels is slightly buckled, but have done their best with the balancing. So I suppose I'll have to grin and bare it, don't know what else I can do other than try to find a wheel that is not buckled. Thanks again for you reply. Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi and thanks for the most comprehensive reply so far. I've been in touch today with the garage that done the recent balance they told me that one of the wheels is slightly buckled, but have done their best with the balancing. So I suppose I'll have to grin and bare it, don't know what else I can do other than try to find a wheel that is not buckled. Thanks again for you reply. Regards.
Hi again. I changed the front wheel with the rear and tried it down the road, wobble gone! So I will get the tyres changed over on the rims and hopefully everything will be ok, fingers crossed. Thanks again. Regards.
 

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Glad to hear you've solved it but don't ignore that buckled rim. I had a rim buckled slightly on the inside of the wheel, didn't think that it could cause a problem just from the look of it but I got an annoying slight vibration at 40/80 mph that went away when the rim was fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Glad to hear you've solved it but don't ignore that buckled rim. I had a rim buckled slightly on the inside of the wheel, didn't think that it could cause a problem just from the look of it but I got an annoying slight vibration at 40/80 mph that went away when the rim was fixed.
Hi, had the tyres changed on the rims today rebalanced etc. The buckled rim had 60grms applied and the machine read normal, so very pleased about that. Thanks for you input. Regards.
 
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