If you wanted to rise it could put the 25 suspension set up on it?
What now... what does one do?
Hi guys, just purchased a couple of 200vi's for night rallying (one prepared and one as a donor) and was wondering what kind or further developments should i be making to keep it reliable and competitive.
What its got already:
Standard VVC engine with the BRM gearbox, LSD, hydraulic handbrake, proper seats (cant remember make) fully welded cage, front to back bash guards inc tank ect ect.
Now the VVC mechs are making a horrendous noise (already sorting that through Dave Andrews) and the gear linkage is like stirring uncooked potatoes (found the how-to and sorting that, thanks guys!!)
What else can people suggest, we are already thinking about uprating the suspension, although remember us night boys are looking for more big hit protection rather than flatout stiffness!! so no lowering or anything like that.
Any help much appreciated
LUCKY
What its got already:
Standard VVC engine with the BRM gearbox, LSD, hydraulic handbrake, proper seats (cant remember make) fully welded cage, front to back bash guards inc tank ect ect.
Now the VVC mechs are making a horrendous noise (already sorting that through Dave Andrews) and the gear linkage is like stirring uncooked potatoes (found the how-to and sorting that, thanks guys!!)
What else can people suggest, we are already thinking about uprating the suspension, although remember us night boys are looking for more big hit protection rather than flatout stiffness!! so no lowering or anything like that.
Any help much appreciated
LUCKY
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Uprate your suspension, espicially if you do the Preston Rally, its rough as nuts.
Sump guard, tank guard, maybe move your fuel and brake lines to inside the car so they are better protected or at least put a guard over them.
Strut brace across the the front and the rear, if not the chassis will flex like no tomorrow. Road rally cars are pretty much prepared like stage rally cars, but with all the interior trim as per MSA rule book states.
Sump guard, tank guard, maybe move your fuel and brake lines to inside the car so they are better protected or at least put a guard over them.
Strut brace across the the front and the rear, if not the chassis will flex like no tomorrow. Road rally cars are pretty much prepared like stage rally cars, but with all the interior trim as per MSA rule book states.
guards already in place, you reckon that a strut brace will be worth it? You got any ideas what suspension would be worth the dollars? 25 suspension gets na rise does it?
I'm quite sure the vi suspension is lower then 25's. But I wouldn't know how it would perform offroad, pritty lousy I'd imagen.
Out of all the ZR rally cars I've built, I've never fitted a front strut brace. And a cage acts as a rear one.Strut brace across the the front and the rear, if not the chassis will flex like no tomorrow.
The standard 200/25/ZR shell is extremely firm, and has no need for a strut brace unless you're on a track with properly set up geometry.
In short, it's not worth it.
Yep, this is what I was told by RallyMatt on here. He is an ex works MG Rally driver and runs the MG ZR Experience using a pair of really prepped ZR160's.Out of all the ZR rally cars I've built, I've never fitted a front strut brace. And a cage acts as a rear one.
The standard 200/25/ZR shell is extremely firm, and has no need for a strut brace unless you're on a track with properly set up geometry.
In short, it's not worth it.
He has done all the mods on my car, I asked him if strut braces were worth it and he said not really as the 200/25/ZR shell is very stiff as it is.
Strut braces just look pretty on the 200/25/ZR
Works on dads rally car, as he does tarmac rallying not gravel, and when your on an airfield it really does load the car up. It's also an ex works shell so was prepped by MG before they went bust, fully seam welded and cage fitted to that car.
Suspension wise, we made are own adjustable coilovers, we lower it for say rallies on Marham, Sculthorpe and Snetterton (may return there in 2012 - watch this space) and higher on the lanes in Isle of Man, Jim Clark, Epynt and Otterburn.
I would lift a road rally car up for better road clearance as some roads will be rough as anything, and gravel tracks. Uprated shocks too. Standards will break (had this when I road rallied a 106 XSi).
Pictures of dads car are in the show us your cars thread for those interested.
Seats you can change, belts you can change but the orginial belts must be in place and operational in the car. Its part of the rules for road rally cars as govened by MSA.
I hope your joined a MSA approved car club and hold a Non-Race National B or National B Stage Rally Licence to compete on road rallies.
Suspension wise, we made are own adjustable coilovers, we lower it for say rallies on Marham, Sculthorpe and Snetterton (may return there in 2012 - watch this space) and higher on the lanes in Isle of Man, Jim Clark, Epynt and Otterburn.
I would lift a road rally car up for better road clearance as some roads will be rough as anything, and gravel tracks. Uprated shocks too. Standards will break (had this when I road rallied a 106 XSi).
Pictures of dads car are in the show us your cars thread for those interested.
Seats you can change, belts you can change but the orginial belts must be in place and operational in the car. Its part of the rules for road rally cars as govened by MSA.
I hope your joined a MSA approved car club and hold a Non-Race National B or National B Stage Rally Licence to compete on road rallies.
Bit of a bump here
Got everything in place now.
Noisey VVC mech replaced and not noisey anymore! new sump guard fitted, but now we come to realise that the car is really far too low.
I understand that the vi is lower than the 25's but what makes it lower? are the spring and struts different or is it just the springs?
One thing people here should be able to help me with is ride height.... our car runs at 340mm on the front and 370mm on the rear, this measurment is taken from centre of wheel to bottom of wheel arch (measurement taken directly vertically)
If anyone has a perfectly standard vi could they let me know what theirs is running as please??
Our car would have taken a monumental beating over the last few years so a bit of spring sag is to be expected, but i would like to know how much different there is between the cars (from new) and where the difference lies?
thanks for all your help Tom
Got everything in place now.
Noisey VVC mech replaced and not noisey anymore! new sump guard fitted, but now we come to realise that the car is really far too low.
I understand that the vi is lower than the 25's but what makes it lower? are the spring and struts different or is it just the springs?
One thing people here should be able to help me with is ride height.... our car runs at 340mm on the front and 370mm on the rear, this measurment is taken from centre of wheel to bottom of wheel arch (measurement taken directly vertically)
If anyone has a perfectly standard vi could they let me know what theirs is running as please??
Our car would have taken a monumental beating over the last few years so a bit of spring sag is to be expected, but i would like to know how much different there is between the cars (from new) and where the difference lies?
thanks for all your help Tom
someone must know something.... :err:
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